Ok, I give up. I need help finding a 9V battery holder.

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This in particular can have disconnects. the connection with the battery is dependent on a spring like effect by the connectors and the holder. A hard landing can cause a loss of connection.

I agree with Chuck on this. I have one of these but am worried about using it for these reasons. I do like Aerocon though.
 
I used the ones listed on Missile Works website in my L3 rocket:wink: Just for insurance I put a zip tie around each one..Whichever way you go, using a holder or just a connector and zip ties, I recommend placing the battery below your electronics with the rocket in the upright position..Or place the battery on the opposite side of the sled from the electronics..Also, I place the holder so the contacts are toward the rear of the rocket-wouldn't want the G's of liftoff 'disconnect' your altimeter's power source...

Love the Missile Works holders. They seem to have changed slightly from order to order. Loved my first one, was a little nervous with my next one. I use the zip ties also. Not a lot of lateral forces on the battery, but helps hold in place.

Chris
 
I used flat heads, very small ones, I think 6-32 and have no clearance issue.
I used them laying flat and also back-to-back in a compact Slimline bay.
I now use 2 Perfectflites. Both apogee igniters go into 1 cup and the mains go in another.
My thought the powder is not going to fail but 2 igniters in 1 charge cup will fire the charge one way or another.
Look here where I even attched two of the battery holders back to back.
I use a tee nut in the e-bay board and long screws that hold the battery from falling out. Wrap it with a tie wrap for good measure.

DAA-Alt Board-Web.jpg
You used panhead screws, I bet. You have to use the right size of flatheads or bugle heads with those.

-Kevin
 
+2 for the Missile Works and a tye wrap.

Jim

I used the ones listed on Missile Works website in my L3 rocket:wink: Just for insurance I put a zip tie around each one..Whichever way you go, using a holder or just a connector and zip ties, I recommend placing the battery below your electronics with the rocket in the upright position..Or place the battery on the opposite side of the sled from the electronics..Also, I place the holder so the contacts are toward the rear of the rocket-wouldn't want the G's of liftoff 'disconnect' your altimeter's power source...
 
I had one of the MissileWorks-style holders; I'd swear I got it at Radio Shack years ago, but they don't carry them anymore. I had built all of my altimeter sleds around being able to use that battery holder. So, when I busted that part early last year after an unplanned shock cord separation, I suddenly found myself re-discovering, usually on the launch field, how to attach the battery to the sled without the holder, and still be able to get it into the payload bay Tetris-style.
 

Green Jello, you took the right approach. The five guys that posted after you are going to follow in my footsteps and chance losing a rocket due to the "battery holders". In my case, it was a motor chuff that caused just enough G's to momentarily separate the contacts (on redundant altimeters no less). I extrapolated the last few gps readings to the hole in the ground. It's not like I'm the only guy trying to pass along this message??

Jim
 
Good advice Jim!

I spent 30 minutes tonight at Mcaster Carr after talking to Shane for 30 mins and ended up with a $200 tab....had to rethink that!!!
 
Green Jello, you took the right approach. The five guys that posted after you are going to follow in my footsteps and chance losing a rocket due to the "battery holders". In my case, it was a motor chuff that caused just enough G's to momentarily separate the contacts (on redundant altimeters no less). I extrapolated the last few gps readings to the hole in the ground. It's not like I'm the only guy trying to pass along this message??

Jim

I still agree with Jim. A battery box or something of that sort is good, but make the electrical contacts something that move along with the battery, wherever it goes. Holding the battery in place and keeping the electrical contacts attached are two separate issues, and attention has to be paid to both. The connector should be attached to the battery, not to the holder.
 
Good advice Jim!

I spent 30 minutes tonight at Mcaster Carr after talking to Shane for 30 mins and ended up with a $200 tab....had to rethink that!!!

dont blame me i said #2 mounting screws and nylon shear pins 10.00 max the rest was all your s buddy:dark:
 
I saw these on ebay for 1.50 a piece.
This picture was in a previous post, but they are not the ones pictured on csrocketry.com
9v battery holder.jpg
The battery fits real snug, and I plan to use these from now on.
 
I prefer these https://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=BC9VPC-ND
BC9VPC.jpg

Although similar to others, I think they are better because the hold the battery better. Check out the data sheet for the details drawing. In addition, they only require three 2-56 screws to be mounted and the connections are completely covered to prevent shorting out. But its biggest advantage is that the holder allows tie-traps to pass underneath it (between the holder and the circuit board) for added security. I use them as designed to be mounted on circuit boards and that is how I use them.
 
I just got these from Mouser. Part# 12BH613-GR, $0.30/ea. I like these because they just hold the battery, and the electrical connection is completely separate. The battery installs very easily, takes a little bit of effort to remove, and is held quite securely. Looks like they need about a #4 flat head screw for mounting.

9volt_craddle.jpg
 
I just got these from Mouser. Part# 12BH613-GR, $0.30/ea. I like these because they just hold the battery, and the electrical connection is completely separate. The battery installs very easily, takes a little bit of effort to remove, and is held quite securely. Looks like they need about a #4 flat head screw for mounting.

View attachment 118836
I like those. might have to pick up a few at that price and try them out.
 
This is my best battery holder-not my idea, I think Gary Tortora had an av bay with something similar.

This is in a 4" Av bay, its aluminum angle in the back and a hunk of bar stock on top. Tightening the av bay lid pushes the wood blocks against the connectors, but it is not needed, the batteries are going no where. There is a threaded insert through the back of the sled the screw goes into. It's already survived an extreme G cato and recovered normally.


PB110135_2.jpg
 
This is in a 4" Av bay, its aluminum angle in the back and a hunk of bar stock on top. Tightening the av bay lid pushes the wood blocks against the connectors, but it is not needed, the batteries are going no where. There is a threaded insert through the back of the sled the screw goes into. It's already survived an extreme G cato and recovered normally

View attachment 118850

That is sweet! I think I am going to do something similar on the rechargable battery for my Telemetrum.
 
Personally, I like the challenge of making my own battery holders out of material I have on hand. I know it sounds a little masochistic but it is kind of fun. To date, I have intentionally made each one a little different from the others just to see if I can come up with something different and more importantly, simpler. In the following pictures I left out altimeters and the like so its easier to see what I made.

First up is the one I put in my Hyperloc 835 which is a 4" bird:

325C32BA-B536-4AE6-8533-040B72975D10-12858-0000163D104A244A_zpsd1f679ae.jpg

This photo shows that the 2 parts are joined together by a simple eyebolt in the middle with a nut on the bottom. Just hand tightened snug is all that's needed.

C6446DF8-13B6-4F88-93CD-CAF78CEEF604-12858-0000163D19BF61F2_zpsb9c7caa7.jpg

This is for a 38mm bird. The battery is merely taped to the board. The two dowel rods are there to (hopefully) stop the battery from sliding forward in the event of a catastrophic deployment.

C98969AD-8BC7-4E25-81A3-F64B8102B9FA-12858-0000163D34372CEA_zpsa3f9f658.jpg

This last one is from my Hyperloc 300 (3" rocket) where I decided to completely encase the batteries in pink foam. Every rocketeer ought to have a supply of rigid pink foam. It's so handy! And by the way, this ebay sled will not be attached in any way to the all-thread that goes through that space. It's just a nice snug fit inside the ebay so it won't slide around.

EE668444-B962-4A39-A35D-535A7F80316D-12858-0000163D3EE8C9BF_zps1510de32.jpg

D8F72A43-5873-41FD-87D2-D8AA695820F0-12858-0000163D474FFE1F_zps8cdf518b.jpg

Hope that helps!
 
Although I have 2 of the Missile Works battery holders in my Level 3 bird, I am strongly considering removing them in favor of the snap on radio shack style and using electrical tape wrapped around the sled. Those battery holders are certainly capable of momentarily failing. I had a rocket on the pad ready to go but no power - it worked just fine when I was testing it earlier but just imagine the results if it happened at any time during flight! I have one that seems to work just fine and one that is 50-50 whether it works. I ordered 4 more but now I am seriously doubting whether I want to use them. I had thought that if you perhaps put something to act as a shim to prevent the battery from wiggling it might help but I think the easy answer is don't use these holders. When you consider the devastating results of a failure, I think the simple and cheap method is the best one to go with. I may have talked myself into it.
 
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