Ok, I give up. I need help finding a 9V battery holder.

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Green Jello

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I'm building a Wildman Jr. and working on the electronics sled. I can't seem to find a 9V battery holder that will work for me. Here is what I have tried:

Aerocon Systems:
batthold9.jpg

https://aeroconsystems.com/cart/flight-avionics/nylon-9-volt-battery-holder/
This one is too big to fit in the bay. So I will save it for my 3" Darkstar build.



McMaster Carr:
7712k62p1l.png

https://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-holders/=la5eao
This one the screw heads get in the way of the battery and I just broke of one of the battery connectors fighting with it.

So I was considering these:
https://www.missileworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=4

Anyone have any input on holders that are compact and secure? I'm about to just by a wire lead and make my own.
 
Radio Shack 9v pigtail, four holes in the sled, and a pair of zip ties. Hook up the battery, cinch everything down, call it a love story.



Later!

--Coop
 
Best battery holder I ever used.

View attachment 116024

I stick the battery to the sled using heavy duty Velcro (the kind with hooks on both sides) and secure it with zip ties through the sled. Zip ties hold it down against the Velcro, which keeps it from sliding up or down along the sled. Some have raised concerns about static from the Velcro zapping the altimeter, but I keep them far enough apart I don't worry.
 
i use the missile works holders with great success....for min diam i use the pictured connector and zipties to hold it to the sled.

DSCF4594.JPG
 
On all my "Jr." kits, I just use electrical tape to hold the battery in place. A few good tight wraps ind its good to go. There is not much room in that tube for many of the pre-made battery holders.
 
Zip ties, what I'm using...

Shane, what is up with the website?
 
this is how my ds is done, fortuitously it is being scrapped, its way tooo heavy... plus i am getting some RF kill for some reason, so the allthread will soon be gone.. but notice how my sled is inbetween the all thread, i have taped my 9v to this sled over and over and ober again!...this works good for something like an adept or arts2, and 9v fits mine with room to spare. b

but as you can see, electrical tape is all thats needed, just get the snap cap wires from the shack....(this is a 4v lipo...but this same sled used to fly 2-9volt with an arts2(like a hunned times))

IMG_0849.JPG
 
I have a Wildman Jr (Shape Shifter JR, etc) and know effort the find a holder that works and allow the switch to extend down into the avbay too.

I've used this style plus cable tie to ensure 9v doesn't pop out.

smaller holder 1.JPG

I've seen these at various places.. csrocketry.com has them.

For larger kits (3 & 4 inch)... i've used these with a cable tie.

batter holder 2.JPG
 
I used the ones listed on Missile Works website in my L3 rocket:wink: Just for insurance I put a zip tie around each one..Whichever way you go, using a holder or just a connector and zip ties, I recommend placing the battery below your electronics with the rocket in the upright position..Or place the battery on the opposite side of the sled from the electronics..Also, I place the holder so the contacts are toward the rear of the rocket-wouldn't want the G's of liftoff 'disconnect' your altimeter's power source...
 
Zip ties in a cross pattern, with separate battery clip. I've always been concerned that G's might make the battery shift around in the holders that have the fixed snaps and make them go intermittent.
 
i use the missile works holders with great success....for min diam i use the pictured connector and zipties to hold it to the sled.

View attachment 116027

Don't use a battery holder. There is more opportunity then you might think for the battery to momentarily disconnect. I do what Shane posted, except that I run electrical tape around the battery over the top of the connector to make sure the connector doesn't pop off.

Jim
 
I ordered the Aeroconn ones once, for our USLI rocket. They're, to use a technical term, flippin ginormous. Not recommended. Zip Ties all the way.
 
I have tried all of the above. Now I either tape the battery in or use zip ties. Much cheaper and much lighter.
 
Don't use a battery holder. There is more opportunity then you might think for the battery to momentarily disconnect. I do what Shane posted, except that I run electrical tape around the battery over the top of the connector to make sure the connector doesn't pop off.

Jim

I'm with Jim on this. If the battery is going to shift around during flight, you want the battery's electrical connections to shift around with it.
 
Shoot, looking at that design, just the post thrust deceleration can cause a loss of connection.The, there goes your apogee event quickly followed by a lawn dart..

Pure speculation on my part, I haven't used those battery holders and since I don't like the design am not inclined to use them...
 
Yeah, I really wasn't thinking it through. I was concerned about the battery not moving and never really considered that the connection to the battery was the most important thing.
 
Shoot, looking at that design, just the post thrust deceleration can cause a loss of connection.The, there goes your apogee event quickly followed by a lawn dart..

Pure speculation on my part, I haven't used those battery holders and since I don't like the design am not inclined to use them...

Just something to think about.
 
i use the missile works holders with great success....for min diam i use the pictured connector and zipties to hold it to the sled.

View attachment 116027
I'd avoid the Keystone 9V connectors with the shroud. I've seen the shroud interfere with the end crimp on some 9V batteries and apply pressure to the battery contact. Under vibration testing (not rocketry related, the freq. range and Grms was much different) they would occasionally unlatch from the battery. Using the Keystone connectors without the shroud (Keystone P/N 2240 View attachment 116109or 2243View attachment 116110) solved the problem in our testing. (Realistically the problem is with the cheap batteries our purchasing group buys but changing the connector solves the problem and lets purchasing buy the cheapest batteries they can find.) Either is available from Digikey for about a $1.
 
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You used panhead screws, I bet. You have to use the right size of flatheads or bugle heads with those.

-Kevin

I use those the type holders. I usually rivet mine to the sled. I usually make the sleds out of G10.
 
I'd avoid the Keystone 9V connectors with the shroud. I've seen the shroud interfere with the end crimp on some 9V batteries and apply pressure to the battery contact. Under vibration testing (not rocketry related, the freq. range and Grms was much different) they would occasionally unlatch from the battery. Using the Keystone connectors without the shroud (Keystone P/N 2240 View attachment 116109or 2243View attachment 116110) solved the problem in our testing. (Realistically the problem is with the cheap batteries our purchasing group buys but changing the connector solves the problem and lets purchasing buy the cheapest batteries they can find.) Either is available from Digikey for about a $1.

when connected to a duracell there is nice space between the battery and connector, these connectors have held up to 50g's at takeoff i zip tie them in two directions. one pressing the connector into the battery. the other across the middle of the battery. but everyones milage will vary
 
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