N3TJM Level 3 Build (Certify With Us)

[n3tjm]

Installed the charge holders and terminal blocks.

 

[JimZNJ]

I am really enjoying this excellent build thread. It is really inspiring me to bite the bullet on a project like this too.

Continued good luck and success with yours. I'll be at Red Glare and look forward to seeing it.

Jim Z

 

[cbrarick]

I'll be at Red Glare cheering you on, too! Good luck!

rick

 

[n3tjm]

Installed 1/4"-20 Brass inserts in the two fins supports. They don't screw at all into fiberglass, so I had to make the hole in the fiberglass large enough so the threads can contact the wood. I messed up the forward ring. The fiberglass grabbed the bit sucking it into the wood, causing me drill to deep for the threads to engage. Not a problem. Epoxy fixes anything .

 

[n3tjm]

Dog House Rocketry accidentally sent me the 1515 guides with the well nuts. This ended up being a good mistake because the brass inserts did not want to thread into fiberglass. Drilled a half inch hole, cut off the top of the well, and epoxied it upside down so the brass insert is on the top.

 

[n3tjm]

1515 Rail Guides Installed.

 

[n3tjm]

Checking the alignment with my brand new 1515 rail. I bought the fasteners from McMaster (they accidentally sent me twice the amount I ordered. They did charge me double, but they will refund and let me keep the extras). The side plates I made with 1/8" x 1" steal plate purchased at Lowes. I cut them to length with a hax saw.

 

[n3tjm]

Just in case its needed, the rocket can also be launched on an Unistrut rail. Way overkill, but the ability to do so is nice, especially if the only pad available is Unistrut.

 

[n3tjm]

I am really enjoying this excellent build thread. It is really inspiring me to bite the bullet on a project like this too.

Continued good luck and success with yours. I'll be at Red Glare and look forward to seeing it.

Jim Z

Thanks . That means a lot to me. I am really enjoying this build. Its been a long time since I built something like this .

 

[Coop]

The kids, Nikki, and I will be there as well. Can hardly wait to see this!


Later!

--Coop

 

[Pantherjon]

1515 Rail Guides Installed.

3 rail buttons..A little overkill to me but, at least your upper button is still on the booster tube. I have seen many 3 button setups where the upper button was on the payload tube, makes lining it up with the other 2 to move freely on the rail a real big PITA..

 

[n3tjm]

The upper button is NOT on the booster tube. Its on the switch band. Alignment is not an issue because when the sheer pins are installed, everything is aligned. That's why I bought my own 1515 rail, need to make sure everything is aligned up and free moving before I drill the holes for the sheer pins.

I forgot who suggested three rail buttons on larger rockets, i think it was either Jack Caynon, or Joel Rogers, or Robert DeHate. But I liked the idea so much that from that point on three buttons on larger rockets are standard for me. Here are the benefits:

Weight is distributed between three instead of two. This is especially nice when the rail is horizontal. Less stress on the lugs if you have to let go of the rocket.

Easier getting the rocket on the rail. This is especially true if your the only one trying to get the rocket on the rail. I can't imagine doing that with a 70 lb rocket... Even so, I would think having two guides close together makes it easier because once both guides are on, alignment is not an issue.

If you break a guide, the other two are sufficient to launch the rocket (unless the top one is the one that broke). The most common guide to break is the aft one, second most common is the middle one. The top one wont break unless you do something stupid (like put to much weight on the rocket). I have broken many lower or middle lugs, but never had to scrap the launch for repairs.

 

[Rocketman248]

Eh, there's nothing wrong with 2 rail buttons. I use two on my big Redstone, and that's 145lbs on the pad. As long as your attachment method is sound, you won't have any problems.

That said, it's your rocket, so definitely go with what you're comfortable with.

 

[patelldp]

If you break a guide, the other two are sufficient to launch the rocket (unless the top one is the one that broke). The most common guide to break is the aft one, second most common is the middle one. The top one wont break unless you do something stupid (like put to much weight on the rocket). I have broken many lower or middle lugs, but never had to scrap the launch for repairs.

I think that you have this backwards. The aft lug or guide is the most important. This guide resides in the rail the longest and therefore has the most "say" in the direction of the rocket.

If you broke the top guide, you would be fine. It's really not necessary at all. Sure it's nice for relieved stress, but otherwise it's not adding anything to your guidance assuming your middle guide is positioned correctly.

Also, for a rocket of this size, and the club you are flying with, I'd recommend using the Unistrut pads. Especially for your L3 flight, having the hydraulic lift is really nice and the extra rail length/strength is certainly desirable. Just my $0.02.

 

[n3tjm]

I don't think the aft guide has any say in which direction its going. Once the aft guide is the the only one left on the rail the rocket can go any direction it wants, including hitting the rail. I seen scratches on rocket where it has done that. I even seen someones aft rail guild still in the rail when the rocket decided a direction that stripped the guide off the rocket.

I guess the key is you want enough velocity by the time the top lug clears that the rocket is already in stable flight. Right now it sims say this rocket will reach that velocity around 4 - 5ft of travel.

Rocketman is right. I am comfortable with three guides

Those Unistrut guides look so BIG on the "small" rocket

 

[Pem Tech]

Looking Good Papa Elf!

 

[n3tjm]

Guide lines are drawn on the airframe to determine where to drill. All bolts and sheer pins are placed 3" from nearest edge of the tube.

 

[n3tjm]

Bolt holes to attach the airframe to the e-bay drilled. Sheer pin holes for the nose cone drilled. Sheer pins installed.

 

[n3tjm]

After checking the alignment of the upper guide the holes for the drogue department sheer pins are drilled and pins are installed.

 

[n3tjm]

Altimeter bay blind nuts epoxied in place. Greased bolts hold the blind nuts in place while the epoxy cures. This complete the build session of the rocket. Next up is finishing. Oh, and when my tax refund is deposited, I'm going mail the check to pay for this kit (Not the first rocket I have built before I paid for it lol)

 

[n3tjm]

Since the build is finished I took a little break. Now I am gearing up for the "Finishing" step. Contacted sticker shock and this is what we came up with . The call signs will be 1" tall. The Rissa will be 4.5" tall

 

[MasonH]

Love it, and I am sure she will too!

 

[Pem Tech]

Installed the charge holders and terminal blocks.

Now that is pretty.....
Excellent work.

 

[n3tjm]

Now that is pretty.....
Excellent work.

Thanks. The charge holders will hold my standard paper ejection canisters I have been using for years .

 

[blackjack2564]

Just a mention of something learned the hard way by me:

If those lines on rocket are magic marker/sharpie types, you will want to do a small test over one with your primer. I did that once and it would continue to bleed through....no matter how many coats I used.
I since, have gone to using pencil, for marking glass tubes.

I did remove most of the marker mess on mine with denatured alcohol & lacquer thinner.

I ended up stripping the primer off the worst offender & beginning again.


Hopefully what you used won't bleed through.....but ya might want to check. LOl

 

[n3tjm]

Yeah, the sharpies do bleed through the first few coats of primer. I do plan to wipe off all the marks before painting to avoid any problems

Just a mention of something learned the hard way by me:

If those lines on rocket are magic marker/sharpie types, you will want to do a small test over one with your primer. I did that once and it would continue to bleed through....no matter how many coats I used.
I since, have gone to using pencil, for marking glass tubes.

I did remove most of the marker mess on mine with denatured alcohol & lacquer thinner.

I ended up stripping the primer off the worst offender & beginning again.


Hopefully what you used won't bleed through.....but ya might want to check. LOl

 

[n3tjm]

Case anyone wondered why they have not seen much going on with my project, I got a nasty staff infection on my neck. Pretty much killed the mood to do much. It's healing up nicely now since I was smart enough to go to the doctors and get some antibiotics. You should see some more pics being posted later this week .

Anyway, got a package from stickershock in the mail. Looks like it got folded. Will those creases come out of the vynal?

 

[n3tjm]

Did some more work today. No pics because I left my camera in my office. Anyway, i used my Dremel tool to sand off any epoxy botches on the airframe. I also touched up some dings in the fiberglass that are going need filled. Then I finally removed the flash on the nose cone. I also started the fillets on the fins using epoxy and micro balloons. I used the technique of masking the body and the fins to keep the fillets clean

 

[Pantherjon]

And I bet the package said 'do not fold' on it..Tsk-tsk on the USPS!

The wrinkles SHOULD come out, you will just have to take extra care after peeling the backing off and when you apply it to the rocket especially in the areas where there is a crease..Follow Mark's tips on applying by lightly wetting the tube, that way you can more easily smooth out the creases...

 

[n3tjm]

Finished the fillets on all four sides of the rocket. They look beautiful