N3TJM Level 3 Build (Certify With Us)

Onebadhawk
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kandsrockets said:
How long of a piece of 4" tubing do you need. I have some 16" long pieces sitting here if that will work. Also if you need rings cut to fit in the nose I can cut them for ya.
Click to expand...

I plan to cut down the shoulder of the nosecone by a few inches, so 4" dia tube will need to be about 24" long.
 
Sounds like an outstanding plan and a very fine rocket!

Looking forward to seeing your work, congrats on the selection and good luck on your L3!!
 
Aksrockets said:
If you wanted to turn this girlfriend into more then just a girlfriend, this would be a really awesome wedding proposal. Maybe it's inappropriate that I'm saying this and I'm sorry if it is. I don't know anything about this relationship.
You have to admit, it would be pretty cool!

Good luck with the build! :pop: I LOVE patriots!

Alex
Click to expand...

Well its going fly long before its time to propose :). We agreed we wait at least till the end of the year before we seriously talk about it. She told me that when she gives me something precious that her Daddy gave her, she's ready :).

I showed her the picture today. She was surprised :D. I'm hoping things work out where she can come along and see it fly.
 
n3tjm said:
Well its going fly long before its time to propose :). We agreed we wait at least till the end of the year before we seriously talk about it. She told me that when she gives me something precious that her Daddy gave her, she's ready :).

I showed her the picture today. She was surprised :D. I'm hoping things work out where she can come along and see it fly.
Click to expand...


Enough talk.
More work, less chit chat.
:cool:
Time to mix some epoxy....

Robert
 
I agree. More work, less talk, lol. Make sure you take the pictures too in between steps.

Seriously, Doug, I look forward to the build.
 
Got a delayed start with the build because had to take care of Rissa. That consumed some cash I was going spend on a new dremel tool. So I asked another friend if I can borrow his. Hoping to have it soon so I can start building :D
 
I'm back :D Been busy with Church and work. Today I decided to brave the snow and deposit some checks and pay a visit to Coles Hardware. They had a nice dremel tool on clearance so I picked it up :). Now I don't have to wait on my friend to find his. I am hoping to actually start construction tonight :). Get that epoxy mixing :D.

Anyway I have a question for those who attend MDRA. What size rail buttons should I use? I was planning to salvage the buttons for 15 rail off another rocket. Would those work on MDRA away cells?
 
n3tjm said:
I'm back :D Been busy with Church and work. Today I decided to brave the snow and deposit some checks and pay a visit to Coles Hardware. They had a nice dremel tool on clearance so I picked it up :). Now I don't have to wait on my friend to find his. I am hoping to actually start construction tonight :). Get that epoxy mixing :D.

Anyway I have a question for those who attend MDRA. What size rail buttons should I use? I was planning to salvage the buttons for 15 rail off another rocket. Would those work on MDRA away cells?
Click to expand...

The last time we where there they had 1515 rail on one of the away pads
 
They have both 1515 and Unistrut at the away pads. They have five pads out there now. Three Unistrut, and two 1515.

I put two sets of buttons on my Ultimate Wildman. 1515 and Unistrut. That way, no matter what sized rail a given club has, I can fly it.

Plus, there really is something special about seeing your own rocket raise up on one of MDRA's hydraulic towers. :)
 
Last Red Glare they lost the hardware for one of the 1515 rails at the away cell. As a result, I suggest you put 1/4-20 backers in and buy Unistrut and 1515 rail guides. That way, depending on what's available, you can swap on the fly. For this rocket on an N1800, I would recommend the Unistruts.
 
Personally I think 1515 rail guides are adequate for a rocket this size and weight; however I love the idea of having both types of rail guides so I can fly on whats available. I assume 1/4-20 backers are blind nuts? I was planning to mount three lugs on the rockets. One into each "Fin" Centering Rings, and one on the switch band. So obviously this is an important consideration before I stare mixing epoxy.

I am not sure what to use for Unistrut Guides. Can you point me to what I want to buy?
 
I have never flown off a unistrut pad....yet. However, I agree yours should go on a unistrut rail. I like the idea of having both the unistrut and 1515 rail buttons. I would like to go the same for my Magnum. Anyone know where I can get the unistrut guides?

Doug, I think your project would look really cool on the unistrut pad.
 
UPscaler said:
Unistrut seems a little excessive, but if that's what you want...
Braden
Click to expand...

I agree, but the whole point is to be able to fly on whichever pad is available. I am sure they'll have more than one 1515 pad available at Red Glare, but why limit myself to that, especially if I can only make it to RG on one day. I can get the rocket ready to fly, then when I find out what pad I am assigned, I can swap guides if needed :).
 
I agree with Papa Elf. You gotta look at what GSE is available in your area. Most of the away cells in the northeast are unistrut so it's best to have them. Mine can be switched to 1515 on my ultimate Wildman, but I've never done it....
 
EPOXY HAS BEEN MIXED!

REPEAT: EPOXY HAS BEEN MIXED!

I'll post pictures later tonight. Got to get ready for a date with the Girlfriend :D
 
First order of business is cut the motor tube down to 26". My brand new Dremel tool and a reenforced cutting wheel made that an easy chore.
774883_10151409835120189_1595871737_o.jpg

774705_10151409835060189_282049627_o.jpg
 
Using the patterns I created in Corel Draw, I center punched and drill all the holes in the aft and forward centering rings. After the holes were drilled, I installed four blind nuts onto the rear ring, and the two eye bolts onto the forward ring.
793764_10151409834995189_1470935380_o.jpg

792266_10151409834950189_948530499_o.jpg
 
After sanding the motor tube with course sandpaper, the tube was marked 17" from the aft end. The middle centering ring was epoxied in place, aft edge at 17". The Forward centering was then epoxied near the top of the tube.
778826_10151409834940189_689164125_o.jpg
 
Next up I used the Dremel tool on the Aft centering ring to trim the parts of the blind nuts that got in the way of the motor tube.

The centering rings already attached to the motor tube also got epoxy fillets to increase the rings bonds to the motor tubes.

Then I took the middle centering ring pattern and cut out out a section between fins. This was used as a patter to cut the worst shape centering ring into sections. These sections will be wedged between the fins and against the middle centering ring. This servers two purposes. They help keep the fins aligned, and add additional support for the fins.
792193_10151409834890189_1706895335_o.jpg
 
One of the questions I have been asking several people is what do I use as a shock cord and how long for each section? (Dual Deploy). Some people insist tubular kevlar is the way to go. Others say Nah, tubular nylon is fine. I know the issue of the body tube can cut nylon, but I plan to have some sort of cord protector to prevent that. Comments? Suggestions?

blackbrandt said:
Oh, so you too have a sewing machine of death (scroll saw)?
cool.png
Click to expand...
Yep. Bought it for my first Level 3 build back in 07. Does not get used that often, but its nice to have when you need one :)
 
Thats the same scroll saw I have! I use it all the time on various rocketry and non-rocketry products.
 
n3tjm said:
One of the questions I have been asking several people is what do I use as a shock cord and how long for each section? (Dual Deploy). Some people insist tubular kevlar is the way to go. Others say Nah, tubular nylon is fine. I know the issue of the body tube can cut nylon, but I plan to have some sort of cord protector to prevent that. Comments? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

I vote tubular nylon. Just make sure your terminations are strong.
 
n3tjm said:
One of the questions I have been asking several people is what do I use as a shock cord and how long for each section? (Dual Deploy). Some people insist tubular kevlar is the way to go. Others say Nah, tubular nylon is fine. I know the issue of the body tube can cut nylon, but I plan to have some sort of cord protector to prevent that. Comments? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Pros and cons to everything; I prefer TK, but TN works just fine, though I'd sleeve it to protect it from ejection charges.

-Kevin
 
After some more sanding on the motor tube where the fins go, and the inside of the body tube where the centering rings go, and cleaning up the fin slots so the fins fit, the motor mount assembly was glued into the body tube. The rear centering ring is in place but only temporarily to keep the motor mount centered.
798192_10151410106050189_1638649892_o.jpg
 

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