Will a 3/8 (10mm) drill chuck tighten down on a 10mm Maker Beam rail?

[BMcD]

I understand that the rail will fit into the fully open chuck, but will I actually be able to tighten down against something that is square? I'm worried it will wobble in the chuck.

 

[DaveW6DPS]

Are you planning to use the chuck to support the rail for launches, or do you want to turn and machine the rail for something? If you are trying to machine the rail, can you be specific about what you are trying to do?

I doubt you would get a solid hold if you plan to machine the rail. Drill chucks are three-jawed, and to grip something square you should use a four-jaw chuck on a lathe.

 

[kuririn]

The bottom of the beam has a threaded hole. Screw a threaded rod into the hole and tighten the chuck around the rod.

 

[BMcD]

Thank you, kuririn. I had not realized the hole was threaded. That is awfully convenient.

 

[ThreeJsDad]

I looked at that but I was not sure about trusting that small of a bolt. I have used that hole for two piece rails on the bigger stuff but I would not be comfortable supporting the entire rail using that hole.

If you try it let me know how it works.

 

[kuririn]

A standard 1/8"rod will also slide nicely into one of the rail slots of a 10mm Makerbeam.
All you have to do is figure out a way to lock it down. Clamp or thumbscrew?

 

[ThreeJsDad]

A standard 1/8"rod will also slide nicely into one of the rail slots of a 10mm Makerbeam.
All you have to do is figure out a way to lock it down. Clamp or thumbscrew?
View attachment 408363

That is convenient !!

 

[kalsow]

I built some brackets for our club's LPR pads. They've had a few flights and seem to be holding up well.

In version one I used 3/8" aluminum U-channel, a package of T-slot nuts from Makerbeam, some 1/4-20 machine screws and nuts, and a bit of epoxy. I lightly ground off a couple sides on the screws and nuts so they would fit in the U-channel.

The Makerbeam is a snug fit in the U-channel. It's important to offset the T-slot nuts so you only have to thread one at a time as you slide the rail into place.

Then I found out that our club's LPR pads accepted 5/16" bolts... Version two used larger diameter threaded rod. I also upgraded to JB-Weld just in case there were any heat issues. I drilled some small 1/16" holes in the U-channel so the JB-Weld would have something to grab. Grinding 5/16" bolt heads and nuts down to fit in the U-channel looked like too much work. So I 3D-printed some square plastic nuts that fit in the U-channel and accepted a 5/16" threaded rod. The nuts don't take any load. They're just there to contain the JB-Weld.

Here's a picture of version one.

 

[ThreeJsDad]

I built some brackets for our club's LPR pads. They've had a few flights and seem to be holding up well.

In version one I used 3/8" aluminum U-channel, a package of T-slot nuts from Makerbeam, some 1/4-20 machine screws and nuts, and a bit of epoxy. I lightly ground off a couple sides on the screws and nuts so they would fit in the U-channel.

The Makerbeam is a snug fit in the U-channel. It's important to offset the T-slot nuts so you only have to thread one at a time as you slide the rail into place.

Then I found out that our club's LPR pads accepted 5/16" bolts... Version two used larger diameter threaded rod. I also upgraded to JB-Weld just in case there were any heat issues. I drilled some small 1/16" holes in the U-channel so the JB-Weld would have something to grab. Grinding 5/16" bolt heads and nuts down to fit in the U-channel looked like too much work. So I 3D-printed some square plastic nuts that fit in the U-channel and accepted a 5/16" threaded rod. The nuts don't take any load. They're just there to contain the JB-Weld.

Here's a picture of version one.
View attachment 408365

Is the Maker Beam the micro or mini rail? Those are very nice !!

 

[kalsow]

Is the Maker Beam the micro or mini rail? Those are very nice !!

Thanks.

It's the 10mm rail that you use with micro buttons. 10 mm = 0.394 in. 3/8" U-channel has about a 0.38 inch opening.

 

[ThreeJsDad]

Thanks.

It's the 10mm rail that you use with micro buttons. 10 mm = 0.394 in. 3/8" U-channel has about a 0.38 inch opening.

Awesome because that is what I have. I actually have two of the rails, the second one is intended for my club so this may make it easier to mount on their current system.

 

[kuririn]

A good pic showing the different sizes of rails and buttons was posted by terryg on this thread (post #11):
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/micro-and-mini-rail-buttons.148246/#post-1818559
There is also a larger 1515 rail, and a smaller nanobeam rail. And a 15mm Makerbeam XL.
The size of rail used should be matched to the size/weight/motor of the rocket being launched.
I wouldn't use a micro button and Makerbeam on a 24mm MPR, or even a heavy LPR rocket.
Just my opinion.

 

[ThreeJsDad]

A good pic showing the different sizes of rails and buttons was posted by terryg on this thread (post #11):
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/micro-and-mini-rail-buttons.148246/#post-1818559
There is also a larger 1515 rail, and a smaller nanobeam rail. And a 15mm Makerbeam XL.
The size of rail used should be matched to the size/weight/motor of the rocket being launched.
I wouldn't use a micro button and Makerbeam on a 24mm MPR, or even a heavy LPR rocket.
Just my opinion.

I have been launching 24mm on my Micro with no issues at all. In my opinion it is stiffer than even a 1/4" rod and folks fly MPR's off those all the time.

I even put up some portly rockets on it at our last club launch. I have done some static tests trying to pull the button out of a rocket using a piece of rail and instead of it coming loose the screw snapped so I feel safe up to an F with the Micro Rail.

 

[BMcD]

10mm is 0.4 inch, and the diagonal is over 0.5 inch. There is probably an engineer on here who can tell us which (if either) of those two is relevant for comparison to a rod, but I share the belief that a 10mm MakerBeam is stiffer than a 1/4" rod.