I ordered one of these for my son's birthday today. He really likes the Saab I just finished so I hope he likes it.
How much nose weight did you decide to use?
Ted
Well Jacob thought it was pretty cool. We'll have to get started on it soon. I'd like to find a decal set for it. Madcow has a 2.6" Jayhawk that includes water slide decals. Maybe they'll sell the separately.
why do you need such thick fillets on this build??
Using the remaining epoxy, make a good fillet on the forward side of the wood ring. (photo 2) This one is important. The aft ring (thrust ring) transfers the thrust of the motor to the rest of the rocket. In a typical high power rocket, this occurs in several load paths, including through the ring to the body tube via the epoxy joints on the rings between the motor tube and the body tube, as well as through the aft ring to the TTW fin tangs and then to the remainder of the structure via physical contact. With a tailcone, the aft ring does not make direct contact with the fin tangs, so the epoxy on the ring carries all the load. On some of my bigger projects with tailcones, I have included ribs here to provide another load path, but the weight (and thrust requirements) of this Jayhawk does not warrant the additional weight aft of the Cp.
You seem to have used a basic bright orange for the main color. Have you ever found a specification for the official color?
Thick as in big or thick as in not runny? If you thought they were big... They are actually very small in radius, although in the pre-sanding pictures (black on black) they look larger because I don't mask the edges. I wet sand them to blend in. I made them small to stretch the included epoxy (intended for the winglets) to all body fillets. (I pull the fillet with my thumb, so how hard I press defines the size of the fillet, so tape doesn't work for me.)
If you meant viscosity, it was just personal preference. Any epoxy will do. The nose cone / canard fillets used a thicker epoxy because the gap between them which was created by beveling the leading and trailing edges left little holes to be filled, which could also have been done after the fact with spot putty. I also used thick epoxy for the kevlar as it was left over from a simultaneous project, so saved some time.
The internals are a different story, as mentioned in the posts assembling the Aero Pack and aft ring. Since the thrust ring does not contact the tang, pretty much all the load path initially goes up the motor tube. I prefer not to rely solely on the strength of an epoxy joint, but where mechanical / physical contact is lacking, it sometimes becomes necessary.
Yeah in the black on black they look "wide" ok thanks for explaining
Enter your email address to join: