Who is using Aeropoxy?

[firemanup]

I used to use it exclusively in my builds 15 years ago but now i cant remember what specific product i used....

If you use it which products do you use specifically?

I’m curious about their structural adhesive, and/or if people just use their laminating epoxy and add milled glass to it for structural applications.

Tks

 

[tim cubbedge]

I use to use ES6209 structural Aeropoxy but not as much anymore. It is fairly thick & has as a long set & cure time. Pretty much use Rocketpoxy for structural these days and West System or US composites for laminating.
I would get my Aeropoxy from Aircraft Spruce
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/building_materials/bm/menus/cm/epoxy_aeropoxy.html

 

[cwbullet]

I have it and use it, but prefer thicker epoxies for most of my rockets/.

 

[Titan II]

ES6209

Loctite 9462 has also been sold as Hysol 9462 and Aeropoxy 9462.

 

[o1d_dude]

I have and have used Aeropoxy on my builds where structural strength mattered. Recently ordered more because I’m unsure if the original order is still good...left it in the garage over the winter...d’oh!

I have Rocketpoxy but have never used it. Unsure if the original purchase is still good so I ordered more...see above. Apparently it works really well for fin fillets.

I have and have used West Systems but haven’t checked it after the winter... Add-ins make for filleting strength or ease of sanding. Actually great for laminating fiberglass cloth to cardboard rockets.

I also have and use BSI for specific cure times and building methods...tacking fins, etc.

I have and use JB Weld where heat resistance and strength are important. Motor retainers for example. Coating rear centering ring surface, also. Pro-tip: It’s available in large tubes and pre-loaded “syringe” style applicators. Check Wally World.

Also use Titebond III on cardboard rockets. The glue is stronger than the building materials. Warning: Gluing couplers into cardboard body tubes can be problematic as it grabs quickly so use epoxy instead.

That’s my two bits.

 

[JimJarvis50]

I don't claim this to be best, but I only use Aeropoxy laminating resin. The 3660 hardener is fine for most uses, but they have severel others. I always put in additives. The main ones I use, in order of quantity, are:

- West 404 high density filler (always).
- West 406 collidal silica (half of the time).
- Some version of milled glass (sometimes).
- West 410 light filler (when I need to make a shape of some type).
- Graphite (for making black epoxy)

I like to be able to taylor the epoxy to have exactly the properties that I want. The 404 just generally thickens the epoxy and makes it less brittle. The 406 is also a thickener, but allows the epoxy to keep it's shape after application. For example, I can form a round fillet, and it will stay that way. I never use "neat" epoxy, except to pre-wet areas where I will apply thickened epoxy.

Jim

 

[Steve Shannon]

For most HPR projects I also have only used Aeropoxy laminating epoxy. For small projects or to tack down parts I have used BSI. I do have a couple gallons of West Systems epoxy, but I haven’t run out of Aeropoxy yet.

 

[Speaknoevil]

US Composites 635-Medium Hardener for laminating: https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

Structural epoxy either System Three T-88: https://www.systemthree.com/products/t-88-structural-epoxy-adhesive, or lately, Brampton 20/20: https://www.hirekogolf.com/brampton-pro-fix-20-20-long-cure-epoxy-32-oz-kit.html

 

[Fattbank64]

I use both Aeropoxy structural and laminating epoxies.

 

[mike2wander]

Jason,
We carry the Aeropoxy ES6209 and BSI products. I agree that the ES6209 is great for larger projects where maximum strength is needed and what I use. BSI is great for smaller projects. It's usually not the epoxy that fails.

 

[DeeRoc29]

I still prefer the 2032/3660 laminating resin for rolling FB tubes. I've even made custom motor liners this way, and the Aeropoxy stands up to the heat!

 

[Viperfixr]

ES6209 is almost all I have used, other than a brief try with RocketPoxy (that was too brittle). The sluggish flow characteristics are actually a plus. To get an even spread over a forward centering ring was easy with a hot air gun carefully used down the airframe. And, it's perfect cure time wise in the southwest summers (in my non-AC garages). I just started using West for the AZ winters, plus I like how West can be made thick, flowing or anywhere in between. Still, never had ES6209 fail on me in any application it was used for--the gold standard for pure strength.

 

[o1d_dude]

The times I’ve used West Systems I’ve also used the slow hardener to get around the summer heat of the Cali Central Valley.

As Viperfxr says, the longer cure time of Aeropoxy works great in the heat.

Good tip on using a heat gun to enhance flow characteristics down inside the tube. Noted.

 

[mpitfield]

I use ES6209 structural adhesive for structural building. I also use their laminating resin 2032 with either 3660 and 3665, depending on the layup.

For fillets on smaller builds I use Red Baron Flex Cure epoxy with micro-balloons, larger build fillets have been combinations of JB weld, ES6209 with FG and CF chop, and Proline 4500, sometimes with micro-balloons. Keep in mind that although the micro-balloons will thicken and lighten up the epoxy, it also weakens it.

I have also used five or six adhesives for gluing up grains, but I have settled on West Systems 105 with the 206 longer hardener.

Lots of choices to consider.

 

[rokit]

I still prefer the 2032/3660 laminating resin for rolling FB tubes.

Me too. I use all the small cut-offs (and the threads that I inevitably pull out when handling fabric before lamination) to make kitty hair to mix in for structural applications. I also go by Aircraft Spruce's neighborhood once a month or so, so no shipping for me

Mike

 

[caveduck]

I use the AeroPoxy ES6209 structural a lot for HPR. I actually like the relatively slow cure and high viscosity - gives enough time to set up all-the-way-around fin jigs and it stays put pretty well if you don't apply too much. A little tricky to make fillets with but the heat gun actually works decently. Can't beat it for strength and it won't crack in fillets. Never felt the need for chopped CF and the like.

In the last couple of years I've totally moved away from RocketPoxy. As viperfixr said, I find it too brittle, cure time seems really sensitive to ambient temperature, and it expires in a couple of years (mfr quoted shelf life is 18 months). AeroPoxy lasts a lot longer.

The AeroPoxy 2032 laminating type is in the same space as West 105/206. I'll use whichever one I have lying around for laminating. The cure times are OK but short for anything but uncomplicated layups though. The slow cure hardener is definitely helpful, especially in the heat.

 

[Jmhepworth]

I use ES6209 on anything fiberglass. I’ve tried Rocketpoxy, Cotronix, FixIt, and Bob Smith. I keep coming back to ES6209. Adding micro balloons or silica, it makes nice external fillets. I add chopped carbon for internal fillets (not sure that it helps, but that’s what CJ said to do and I pretty much listen when CJ says something). I also use JB Weld, but only to attach Aeropack retainers. And I stick with Cotronix for minimum diameter, although I suspect ES6209 would be just as good.

Joe

 

[glenbo]

I used to to use Aeropoxy Structural Adhesive for all my early HP fillets.Very slow cure & not the easiest to work with. I still believe it is one of if not the strongest out there. I got spoiled by West Systems, Rocketpoxy & Proline 500 for faster cure & ease of use. For strength alone Aeropoxy Structural, but personal favorite is Proline 500 for external fillets.

 

[DaHabes]

I use Aeropoxy 6209 for internal structural requirements on MPR and HPR builds (motor mount, internal TTW fin fillets). I use Rocketpoxy for eternal fin fillets because it is much easier to work with to get a smooth fillet. I use BSI 5 and 15 minute epoxy for other structural requirements that don't require Aeropoxy.

 

[RCBrust]

Some info for those who like to use BSI epoxies for smaller jobs or quick fixes. I couldn't find the glass transition temps on their website so I contacted them and got the following reply:

Slow-Cure & Finish-Cure: 190F
Mid-Cure: 175F
Quik-Cure: 155F

Finish Cure is their lower viscosity laminating epoxy. Slow Cure is 30 their minute, Mid Cure is their 15 minute and Quik Cure is their 5 minute. So Tg wise, it looks like their 30 minute is on par with brands such as Aeropoxy.

Randy

 

[Speaknoevil]

Some info for those who like to use BSI epoxies for smaller jobs or quick fixes. I couldn't find the glass transition temps on their website so I contacted them and got the following reply:

Slow-Cure & Finish-Cure: 190F
Mid-Cure: 175F
Quik-Cure: 155F

Finish Cure is their lower viscosity laminating epoxy. Slow Cure is 30 their minute, Mid Cure is their 15 minute and Quik Cure is their 5 minute. So Tg wise, it looks like their 30 minute is on par with brands such as Aeropoxy.

Randy

The Tg is only marginally useful. Did BSI give you a Heat Deflection (HDT) spec?

 

[Mick Kelly]

For me I use Aeropoxy 6209 structural adhesive for assembly
Then cloth layup work I use Aeropoxy 2032/3660 resin matrix
Utilizing the following assortments of pixie dusts for my additives:
West 406
Microballoons
Milled glass
Chopped fiberglass
Chopped carbon fiber
Kevlar pulp

 

[Mick Kelly]

Since Tg was brought up has there been any studies or thermal profiles on motor mount tubes? Curious to know what the actual temperature is at the motor mount to centering ring junction along with duration of said temp. How close do we get to the Tg of the resin matrix?

 

[Speaknoevil]

So again, I believe what you really want is HDT, not Tg. Tg is where the polymer breaks down to the point of being rubbery and closer to liquid. A rocket will fail far before then. The HDT, typically a lower temperature, is when the epoxy begins to be deformed under stress conditions. https://www.researchgate.net/post/Hdt_vs_tg

 

[Ngm525]

Jason,
We carry the Aeropoxy ES6209 and BSI products. I agree that the ES6209 is great for larger projects where maximum strength is needed and what I use. BSI is great for smaller projects. It's usually not the epoxy that fails.

Do you add milled glass to the ES6209 or use it by itself for larger HPR builds? Ex: 4” Wildman Punisher

 

[mike2wander]

I never add anything to my epoxy. I've found that if the epoxy fails it's because of a significant event that most of your components won't survive anyway. The ES6209 is used in many applications that far exceed ours and fillers are not necessary for those. This is my personal opinion and by no means makes it right or wrong. I would suggest that either way you won't go wrong.

MIke Crupe
MAC Performance Rocketry

 

[DaHabes]

I use to use ES6209 structural Aeropoxy but not as much anymore. It is fairly thick & has as a long set & cure time. Pretty much use Rocketpoxy for structural these days and West System or US composites for laminating.
I would get my Aeropoxy from Aircraft Spruce
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/building_materials/bm/menus/cm/epoxy_aeropoxy.html

I use stock Aeropoxy for internal bonds (CRs, TTW fillets), RocketPoxy for external fillets.

 

[Steve Shannon]

I used to use it exclusively in my builds 15 years ago but now i cant remember what specific product i used....

If you use it which products do you use specifically?

I’m curious about their structural adhesive, and/or if people just use their laminating epoxy and add milled glass to it for structural applications.

Tks

I just use the laminating epoxy and add different amendments to it depending on what I need to do. For filets I use silica. For structural purposes I use chopped carbon fiber or fiberglass tape.
I suppose it’s not optimal, but it’s good enough. Perfect is the enemy of good enough.

 

[JohnCoker]

I still use AeroPoxy for most purposes. I also use JB Weld for bonding metals (such as ensuring T nuts can't come loose from bulkheads). Based on lap-shear tests I did some time ago, the bonding epoxy is significantly stronger than the laminating epoxy for bonding so I always use ES6209 for bonding.

I generally use the fast hardener when using laminating epoxy (PR2032).

 

[teepot]

I've never tries aeropoxy. I use PC Super epoxy. It's thick, doesn't run, doesn't sag. Slow cure. Good working time. I use it for external and internal filets.