this primer is not great

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Pappy

old man, lovin' life
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tried many different brands with varying results but this one deserves special mention for it's issues. can on the left is the one i'm referring to, 'american accents' flavor of 2x rustoleum. with even partial coverage with light application, this paint runs horribly. fortunately, when it finally dries, it sands well, but still. can on the right is 'painter's touch' 2x rustoleum, which does not share it's cousins runny aspect. unsure if the color has anything to do with it, but i remember using a can of Ace Hardware white primer, with a similar consistency, and had no great issue with the paint running.

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I believe the only difference between American Accents and Painter's Touch is the color selection. Rusto's naming is generally somewhat confusing.

Personally I have experienced no problems with the Rusto primers.
 
I use a lot of the flat white primer you reference. I have always had excellent results.
 
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I've never had a problem with this brand of primer. I finally abandoned Rust-Oleum after too many failed cans when they were still 1/2 full. I get Dupli-Color Primer and Filler at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store. Comes in red, black, white, gray. Filler is just a primer with more solids, so it fills deeper spots more quickly. Dries in 30-45 minutes and sands easily. Usually 2-3 coats followed by sanding will fill tube spirals in most kits. Phenolic tubing usually needs putty first.
 
Agree with Mark on this on, it is hard to beat Duplicolor primers if you have to use rattle cans. Also agree on warming them up in a water bath - works very well. I use the Duplicolor Engine Enamels for my color coats. Superb paint.

However, I do often use the Rustoleum Flat White primer over the Duplicolor primer if I want to start with a flat white base. Maybe it is just the auto stores in my area, but I have never found the Duplicolor Filler Primer in any other colors but gray and red. Many times, the dark color base of a filler primer makes it more difficult to get the color I want from the color coats, so getting a flat white base in there really helps.
 
I don't think the Filler (Primer) comes in anything but gray and red. The white and black ones are listed as Sandable Primer on the can. I do my spiral fills with gray or red, then switch to white or black primer as the final coat prior to my paint color, similar to you.
 
Sorry for your misfortune. I have to say too, Pappy, both of these Rustoleum primers have worked quite well for me over the years. I tend to invest a LOT of time priming and wet-sanding my rockets to an ultra-smooth base before applying the final color coats--perhaps a dozen or so primer layers before I'm satisfied. But the 2X varieties of white Rustoleum primer have never disappointed.

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Sure you shook them sufficiently, bud?
 
I've never had a problem with this brand of primer. I finally abandoned Rust-Oleum after too many failed cans when they were still 1/2 full. I get Dupli-Color Primer and Filler at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store. Comes in red, black, white, gray. Filler is just a primer with more solids, so it fills deeper spots more quickly. Dries in 30-45 minutes and sands easily. Usually 2-3 coats followed by sanding will fill tube spirals in most kits. Phenolic tubing usually needs putty first.

+1 on Dupli-Color line of products.
Second best only to Tamiya, which is in another pricing universe altogether, especially if you start comparing by volume.

The primer in question can also be ordered from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-...Color+Primer+and+Filler&qid=1630702196&sr=8-1
 
I see you are in Tampa Bay.
Maybe a humidity issue?
I have used Rusto 2X and Dupli-Color primers with no issues and great results.
(Humidity here is normally <30%.)
 
The white primer is chalky and easy to sand but doesn’t cover much so good with showing details. It will run if not paying attention while applying which I have done.

The grey primer is gummy and hides many mistakes. It tends to also gum up the sandpaper. A fine coating of baby powder helps to keep the sandpaper clear of primer while sanding.

That said, I covered my new Cosmic Interceptor with grey then with white primer, thin coats. I have black primer but haven’t used it yet so wondering which it’s more like.
 
Two great products

DupliColor Filler Primer availible at most auto stores

Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler/sandable primer at WalMart in the automotive section

-Bob
 
I tend to invest a LOT of time priming and wet-sanding my rockets to an ultra-smooth base before applying the final color coats--perhaps a dozen or so primer layers before I'm satisfied. But the 2X varieties of white Rustoleum primer have never disappointed.

Sure you shook them sufficiently, bud?
A DOZEN prime layers?!?!? Wth? I think you've set a new rocketry finishing OCD record. A dozen layers of prime??? For sure that was a typo?
 
I had white primer run on me to. I was at the correct distance and sweeping as I sprayed. I couldn't believe it ran. Today I tried to put a color coat of rusto 2X white on a rocket. I haven't been using it because I had several cans that the paint came out dry like Christmas tree flocking. I happened again. I won't for20210903_202115[1107].jpg20210903_202109[1108].jpgget and buy it again.
 
I had white primer run on me to. I was at the correct distance and sweeping as I sprayed. I couldn't believe it ran. Today I tried to put a color coat of rusto 2X white on a rocket. I haven't been using it because I had several cans that the paint came out dry like Christmas tree flocking. I happened again. I won't forView attachment 480339View attachment 480340get and buy it again.

The contents probably separated. When this happens, I place the can in a bowl of hot water (not boiling) then shake vigorously. Test to see if the contents have mixed properly.
 
... Cosmic Interceptor

i built one i had in my closet for years, recently, and i botched the paint job by leaving the masking tape on too long. the adhesive (scott's blue sharp edge stuff) ate into the black gloss finish. when i tried to hand paint over the affected areas, i accidentally used flat black. comedy of errors. now i have this rocket sitting in a corner, mocking me for my shoddy work.
 
I see you are in Tampa Bay.
Maybe a humidity issue?

maybe. humidity here is 85-90% plus minus all the time. other stuff i'm using seems to be less affected. since few on this thread are indicating a similar experience, thinking it's a combination of adverse conditions... long shelf time, not shaken enough, humidity, oh my...
 
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I had white primer run on me to. I was at the correct distance and sweeping as I sprayed. I couldn't believe it ran. Today I tried to put a color coat of rusto 2X white on a rocket. I haven't been using it because I had several cans that the paint came out dry like Christmas tree flocking. I happened again. I won't forView attachment 480339View attachment 480340get and buy it again.
I've given up on Rusto 2X Gloss white for the same reason. I call it cottage cheese, but I like your Christmas Tree flocking description better.
Rusto 2X Gloss White can do this without warning, even after you have used the can moments before.
It has nothing to do with shaking (I do shake to mix) or temperature - It just happens!
 
I buy the cheapest thing I can find, basically out of my financial situation.
It's primer, it fills, surfaces and gets sanded.
As long as it sticks and is allowed thoroughly before sanding and top coating it's good enough for me.
If I had an air compressor, I would buy primer by the gallon.
But a compressor budget won't be in the budget until next Spring, if even then.
 
I've given up on Rusto 2X Gloss white for the same reason. I call it cottage cheese, but I like your Christmas Tree flocking description better.
Rusto 2X Gloss White can do this without warning, even after you have used the can moments before.
It has nothing to do with shaking (I do shake to mix) or temperature - It just happens!
I am working on a can of semi-gloss right now. Based on previous technical explanations, it seems like the glossier paints are more prone to cottage cheesing, so I'm hoping the Semi-gloss is at least a bit better in this regard. I've certainly been able to get a nice high-gloss finish after applying Future on top of it, so I don't feel like I'm giving up anything.

Haven't tried my can of semi-gloss black yet. Although I've never seen (nor heard) of cottage cheesing with the black, I did realize after some consideration that I've had consistent trouble getting a good smooth coat with my previous can of gloss black. So maybe the semi- will work a bit better, who knows.

Downside: I had to mail-order both cans, as I couldn't find them in any store locally.
 
Glueck, have you tried one or two coats of a filler/primer first? It could probably replace 10 of the coats of 2x primer that you are now using.

I did indeed recently give Rustoleum's 2in1 Primer&Sand a try. It may well have filled the imperfections and remaining spirals a bit better than the 2X primer. But it seemed to create more of a satin outer layer than the 2X primer. And that all gets wet-sanded away, anyway, with the 400- to 600-grit 3M sandpapering I apply between each 1 or 2 primer coats.

Honestly, though, I think it's the patient wet-sanding--more than the particular characteristics of the primer--that delivers the glass-smooth finish I strive for before the color coats are applied. Probably 80% of the primer I spray on actually ends up getting wiped off the wet-sanded air frame with a damp paper towel. Even though I use wood filler and dry sanding to try to fill the spirals in the Blue Tube, they're still visible. Only a dozen or so iterations of priming and wet-sanding seems to exorcise them entirely.

But the result is ultimately worth the tedious effort to my eye--obsessive though it might be! :)

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