3D Printing Started new 3D printer build

[Dustin Lobner]

Building a HevORT, 615mm x 615mm x 890mm build volume, specifically for making HPR parts. Just getting started, hoping to have it printing by Christmas. Here's me sitting inside the build chamber - going to have a 19" wide bay to the right that has a dry box and a full up computer/keyboard/17" monitor to run it from. Can't wait to get it going.

 

[OzHybrid]

Building a HevORT, 615mm x 615mm x 890mm build volume, specifically for making HPR parts. Just getting started, hoping to have it printing by Christmas. Here's me sitting inside the build chamber - going to have a 19" wide bay to the right that has a dry box and a full up computer/keyboard/17" monitor to run it from. Can't wait to get it going.

View attachment 511627

Like the video for it. Going to start slow laying down the first layer at 200mm/s.................... Good luck with the build.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

Like the video for it. Going to start slow laying down the first layer at 200mm/s....................

Lol, no way mine will be that fast, that was shot on a 315x315, so much smaller.

The video that exploded my mind was this one:

 

[dr wogz]

cheaper than these guys I guess!

https://www.modix3d.com/

 

[Dustin Lobner]

True, but that's not saying much, lol. I love the idea of something like that, but think it can be done with lower cost (at least I'm hoping).

Really what I should do for rockets is build like a 2m tall Delta, but I've never played with a delta and didn't want to be starting completely from scratch.

 

[OverTheTop]

Interesting that they added motors to be able to level the plate. The ones we have here (Creality) just do the leveling by interpolating the Z finely as it prints. I guess the other way may be an advantage with the high extrusion speed.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

Interesting that they added motors to be able to level the plate. The ones we have here (Creality) just do the leveling by interpolating the Z finely as it prints. I guess the other way may be an advantage with the high extrusion speed.

There are two different things at play - auto bed leveling, which is usually done with thumbscrews or whatever and is for the "average" surface to be level, and then mesh leveling which is to compensate for warped beds...I think that's what you're talking about? I have mesh leveling on my CR-10.

 

[OverTheTop]

There are two different things at play - auto bed leveling, which is usually done with thumbscrews or whatever and is for the "average" surface to be level, and then mesh leveling which is to compensate for warped beds...I think that's what you're talking about? I have mesh leveling on my CR-10.

The "mesh leveling" and "auto bed leveling" are essentially identical mathematically and can be corrected using the same algorithms. By leveling the bed better to start with there may be gains to be had by starting with essentially a nominally "level" bed due to less z-axis movements, but I suspect you would need to be well off-level before the algorithm would fail to print properly using the standard mesh leveling.

I am happy to be pointed in the correct direction if I have grabbed the wrong end of the stick, but I think the systems should be equivalent to a first-degree approximation.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

What have I done?????




Print section is on the left, the section on the right is a 19" wide electronics bay, so I can use rack mount equipment. 2nd Pic is looking at the eBay side.

Going to slow down now...this is basically the furthest I can get with things on hand, going to have to start ordering new things.

 

[OzHybrid]

What have I done?????

View attachment 512132
View attachment 512133

Print section is on the left, the section on the right is a 19" wide electronics bay, so I can use rack mount equipment. 2nd Pic is looking at the eBay side.

Going to slow down now...this is basically the furthest I can get with things on hand, going to have to start ordering new things.

As long as you don't have to disassemble it to put on the bits that should have been put on before you joined them up...........

 

[Dustin Lobner]

As long as you don't have to disassemble it to put on the bits that should have been put on before you joined them up...........

Thanks for providing me with the nightmare I'll have every night for the next few weeks. :Cheers:

No, this printer is meant to be assembled frame first and then bolt everything on. Using the miracle that is roll-in tnuts, everything should be OK. Worst case I have to wait a bit for more tnuts or fasteners or whatever to arrive. Should be good though.

Biggest worry at this point is whether or not everything is square.

 

[OzHybrid]

Thanks for providing me with the nightmare I'll have every night for the next few weeks. :Cheers:

No, this printer is meant to be assembled frame first and then bolt everything on. Using the miracle that is roll-in tnuts, everything should be OK. Worst case I have to wait a bit for more tnuts or fasteners or whatever to arrive. Should be good though.

Biggest worry at this point is whether or not everything is square.

I cannot believe you read the instructions before you started.......
I always think of 3d printing as death by a thousand paper cuts. It's a miracle any print survives. Get yourself a few good engineering squares in various sizes. Looks like this will be an epic build with lots for us to learn from the things that happen along the journey....
Norm

 

[Dustin Lobner]

I cannot believe you read the instructions before you started.......
I always think of 3d printing as death by a thousand paper cuts. It's a miracle any print survives. Get yourself a few good engineering squares in various sizes. Looks like this will be an epic build with lots for us to learn from the things that happen along the journey....
Norm

There aren't any instructions to read!! Just a super cool Fusion360 in browser app that lets you do exploded views, and a Discord server.

Heck, I still have to design the Z-axis drive on this thing. No way I was going to go with 1m ballscrews...cost for one reason, but also no way they'd be straight. So, going belt drive on the Z-axis. There's a guy on the Discord, who has done a TON of other mods, said he was a couple week away from releasing his belted Z axis...but haven't heard from him in 3 months. So, I have to design that, then likely also a counterweight system...based on others' experienced it's likely the bed will weight 30+ pounds, going to use a cable (4 of them actually) and dead weights hanging off the side to reduce some of the weight that the Z-axis has to cope with.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

8 feet of DIN rail installed. Woot.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

My printer has a motherboard, raspberry pi 4b, and an octopus pro. Progress is slow and steady.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

Trying to use as many things that I had laying around to keep costs lower-ish. Needed a monitor, found a 24" flatpanel TV laying around and thought why not? Also has a mouse and keyboard now.

 

[OzHybrid]

Enclose it then add the widgets. This prevents widget location remorse. Don't ask me how I know.....

 

[Dustin Lobner]

Enclose it then add the widgets. This prevents widget location remorse. Don't ask me how I know.....

Hahahahahah, sounds like the voice of experience.

I'm kindof intentionally making that mistake actually...cashflowing the project, and if I wait till I have money to do that it'll be 2024. I'll deal with the consequences later, plus most of my prints are PETG and don't need an enclosure.