Pop lugs, not drugs
- Oct 15, 2016
- Reaction score
- Huntsville AL
Yeah I don't think it should be too big of a deal. Just looking forward to finally receiving them and setting up the electronics bay. One step closer to launch.Ask around your club or school team.
Worst case scenario, get familiar with the manual programming feature.
I wish that I could center the sled more but I can't due to the switch placement. I'm going to work on cleaning up the wiring and twisting the wires. I plan on sliding the sled with the left bulkhead on first then putting on the right bulkhead due to the connections being closer.It's also good practice to keep wires short. Not tight, but short enough to avoid unnecessarily large loops, though long enough to allow (only a little) movement. And try to designate wire pathways, as if they are running in imaginary pieces of conduit. I realize that runs counter to keeping them short, but you find a compromise. In other words, keep it neat. That leads to multiple pairs running together over some of their length*, and you can use those areas to apply tie-downs.
And now the other side of the coin. I did write "unnecessarily large loops." Now and then, a large loop is necessary, and so be it. How do you plan to put the while assembly into the coupler? Since there are wires fixed to both bulkheads, you need to be able to break one of them away, and put it back together with the bulkheads prepositioned, which means you need access to a connector in between. The connector just to the left of the sled in the first picture looks like it would be really hard if not impossible to reach in that situation. Maybe you've got this covered; maybe I'm full of hot air. If not, then it looks to me like you need more length between the sled and that connector to allow for final assembly. Less length between the connector and the bulkhead could go along, but no matter what it will need more slack than the other wires in the setup. (If it were me, I'd make that last connection accessible through a hatch in the side of the rocket, but I do tend to overthink things.)
* Some may observe that running wires parallel like this increases interference/cross talk. True, but simply using twisted pairs will be sufficient mitigation, since none of these wires are carrying low level signals.
After fiddling around with it, I found two holes that align with the switches perfectly. I'm picking up some Duracell 9V soon to begin testing. Only thing left to do is to order the recovery system and get to testing.
Yeah I'm probably being a bit over cautious. I'll probably just end up epoxying them as you mentioned when I'm sealing the rest of it.If you're that worried about ejection gas blow through, a little dab of RTV would be much more effective long term. I see most folks just put a dab of 5 min epoxy to keep any hardware from backing out, which seals, too. Either way, not ever seen any issues from simple screw holes.
Yes, there are covers that screw on. Just noticed I don't have a photo of them installed so I'll make sure to include one during the next update. The batteries are very secure with the covers on.Do you have anything planned to keep the batteries from sliding to the right as shown in your pictures?
Try Bass Pro shops. May have to call a store specifically to inquire, their website is not overly helpful in determining where it is in stock since they won't sell online.will be ordering the parachutes and shock cord within the next week. Calling around to local stores to see if they have FFFFG black powder for ejection charges, heard it can be hard to find. After that, only thing left to do is ground testing then maiden flight! Looking forward to it.
One option would be Nylon Threaded Rod.I plan on using the threaded rod in the nosecone for adjustable noseweight but this would impact the T3 GPS tracking system. Some ideas I had were externally mounting the antenna through the nosecone bulkhead, using fiberglass threaded rod, or mounting the T3 on the shock cord but I'm not sure which one would be the best option. What are your opinions on these options?
I wouldn't rely on the nylon threaded rod for all the force but I could epoxy it into the tip so that I can just screw weight onto it. I would have to secure the nosecone bulkhead to a plate inside the shoulder, possibly a 3D printed one.
Get a MAC or APE nose cone bay. Both problems solved.I plan on using the threaded rod in the nosecone for adjustable noseweight but this would impact the T3 GPS tracking system. Some ideas I had were externally mounting the antenna through the nosecone bulkhead, using fiberglass threaded rod, or mounting the T3 on the shock cord but I'm not sure which one would be the best option. What are your opinions on these options?
Seems like they are designed for plastic nosecone and do not allow for easily changeable noseweight. It also requires for the top rings to be on the lip between the shoulder and the nosecone, which I already epoxied on. I personally think that it would be easier to use a nylon/fiberglass threaded rod and a ring for the bulkhead to be screwed into. That way the force is not only on the threaded rod, removing a lot of the concern.Get a MAC or APE nose cone bay. Both problems solved.
Not being argumentative here but nylon bolts are a lot stronger then most people realize. Ask any R/C pilot. I have seen nylon bolts used to hold down wings of 1/4~1/3 scale aerobatic planes like the Cap 21 and Christian Eagle.I wouldn't rely on the nylon threaded rod for all the force but I could epoxy it into the tip so that I can just screw weight onto it. I would have to secure the nosecone bulkhead to a plate inside the shoulder, possibly a 3D printed one.