Spray Paint Booth

[dlazarus6660]

I need a spray paint booth to paint my rocket projects indoors.
I did a little research on-line and came across this.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-small-fume-hood-for-stinky-projects/

I subscribe to this site and find it funny and interesting.

Anyway, I live in a small two bedroom apt. with very limited storage space and becuse I live in the northeast and winter is here I needed a spray paint booth. I like this and I plan to build it after the New Year. The big expense will be the hood unit. I'll need to look around to see what used or recycled home products places there are in the area.

It is big enough to paint almost all LPR and MPR, portable and easy to use.
For ventilation, I plan on venting it through a window building a cap to fit inside the window frame, sealing it with....

Wait for it...

Duct tape!

I thought of just building a "booth" over the stove, but I want my deposit back when I leave.

Any better ideas out there I'm open to suggestion.

Daniel

 

[scsager]

Hi Daniel, the link in your post is not working for me.

I have been thinking of making some sort of booth that will sit on top of the stationary tubs in the basement. Maybe I could vent the over spray into the tub where it wouldn't do any property damage, although that might not be the best environmentally correct solution.

 

[Rex R]

couple of thoughts; you should use some form of brushless motor to power the fan, and you'll want some type of air filter before the 'fumes' reach the fan(so that you don't paint the fan or the window screen).
rex

 

[dlazarus6660]

Hi Daniel, the link in your post is not working for me.

I have been thinking of making some sort of booth that will sit on top of the stationary tubs in the basement. Maybe I could vent the over spray into the tub where it wouldn't do any property damage, although that might not be the best environmentally correct solution.

View attachment 36565

Try it now!

Daniel

 

[dlazarus6660]

I was brought to my attention that if I use the stock motor, the motor might ignite the fumes. I'll have to look into it.
Also, a fliter will be in place to catch the overspray.

scsager,

Years ago I worked next to a indoor paint shop that used a waterfall to catch the paint overspray. It worked well for over twenty years until it was deemed unsafe for the workers and environmentally unfriendly.
Go figure!

Daniel

 

[nukemmcssret]

I was brought to my attention that if I use the stock motor, the motor might ignite the fumes. I'll have to look into it.
Also, a fliter will be in place to catch the overspray.

scsager,

Years ago I worked next to a indoor paint shop that used a waterfall to catch the paint overspray. It worked well for over twenty years until it was deemed unsafe for the workers and environmentally unfriendly.
Go figure!

Daniel

You definately need a brushless motor. Sparks will set you and your house on fire. Also even if you use none flammable paint the brushes will cake with the sparayed paint, and your motor will stop working. Does not matter hooooow many filters you use, some paint will reach the motor. Also some day you may forget and use a flammable paint. That is not good.:cry: Also make sure the blower is large enough to vent outside. It is an air pump so it has to have the volume to suck your paint and also discharge it through at least two filters. I would not discharge in my house the paint will start showing up everywhere. Thats is my two cents. nukemmcssret

 

[o1d_dude]

I believe the brushless motors in question are "TENV" (Totally Enclosed Non-Vented). Not inexpensive, I checked.

Actually, it might be cheaper to just buy spray booth like the kind available through TCP Global.

 

[sodmeister]

This is the simplified version ,but if you are looking for a takedown/fold away booth ,then it`s really not that hard.The booth itself can be made of almost anything...even cardboard ,but there is a great material that is basically corrogated plastic.It comes in 4 x 8 foot sheets and is 1/4 inch thick.This stuff cuts easily with a utility knife and can be held together with duct tape.The fan you want is a type of squrirrel cage fan with the motor mounted outside the airstream.....400 CFM or higher would be a good start ,vented outside via 6" pipe is best ,although 8" would be better.It is my opinion that a 4" flex or solid pipe is too small.

The posted pic is the type of fan that i speak of,and the type I use.

I`ll also post a picture of one of the small booths I use for model aircraft ,but the basic design is the same.I used a 6" flex hose to the fan inlet and 6" snap pipe to vent ouitside.

Also, depending on where you live ,what type of furnace you have (oil .nat.gas ,electric) water heater ,fireplace etc. ,I advise a fresh air /make up air to replace the air you exhaust out of the house.....carbon monoxide could put you at a very high risk with such a booth set-up.

I pretty much do this type of work for a living (industrial ventilation /dust collection) red seal journeyman.

 

[sodmeister]

Here are some pics of my smaller booth.You can see the pre-filter inside the booth located on the roof.The intake can also be located at the back of the booth also (my prefered location).The you can also see the piping to and from the fan.

My large takedown booth (made of the plastic sheeting I mentioned) is 5 feet wide ,36" tall in the front (sloping to 24" in the back) and 24" front to back.Sorry no pictures ,as I have not set it up yet this winter.

HTH

Paul T

 

[o1d_dude]

Now that's a suggestion we can use.

Nice shop, BTW.

 

[alexzogh]

I guess I am cheap

I needed a spray booth for larger projects - those little model booths don't cut it for BIG rockets.

I bought a spray tan portable tent (like this one: https://cgi.ebay.com/AIRBRUSH-SPRAY...S_Skin_Care&hash=item1c180e5e0b#ht_2101wt_922), repurposed a lazy susan which I drilled a 29mm hole in the center, and built a few adapters to hold up rockets by their motor tubes. I rotate the rockets by hand with the lazy susan.

This is in a garage, so I wear a mask while working, and vent by opening the garage doors

 

[Marc_G]

.The fan you want is a type of squrirrel cage fan with the motor mounted outside the airstream.....400 CFM or higher would be a good start ,vented outside via 6" pipe is best ,although 8" would be better.It is my opinion that a 4" flex or solid pipe is too small.

The posted pic is the type of fan that i speak of,and the type I use.

Nifty. Got a model number on the fan? Maybe a recommended source too? It's great to have someone so knowledgeable in these matters here!

Thanks

MArc

 

[sodmeister]

Nifty. Got a model number on the fan? Maybe a recommended source too? It's great to have someone so knowledgeable in these matters here!

Thanks

MArc

Marc ,

Seeing how I live in Canada ,I cannot really tell you of a source for such exhaust fans ,but they should not be too hard to locate.I find (when I buy them ) at a local electric supply house ,but usually I get lucky and scab them from biological/fume hoods, when we do decommision work at labs/hospitals....(depends on what the hoods are used for of course and no Level 2-3 virus fans allowed to be taken :y: ) but they are quite common ,just get enough CFM to do the job proper....again ,400 is pretty much base .The discharge pipe does however make a big difference on how efficient the fan will run.

I found that picture on the web, so it`s pretty much generic...BUT ,that is what they look like exactly.

Speaking of fans ,I`m off to work to change out an axial fan at a large furniture manufacturer ( something like 3200 CFM to a roof discharge).then it off for the holidays.10 days of R & R and rocket building and Christmas celebrations !

HTH

Paul

Happy to help !

 

[Bravo52]

You definately need a brushless motor. Sparks will set you and your house on fire. Also even if you use none flammable paint the brushes will cake with the sparayed paint, and your motor will stop working. Does not matter hooooow many filters you use, some paint will reach the motor. Also some day you may forget and use a flammable paint. That is not good.:cry: Also make sure the blower is large enough to vent outside. It is an air pump so it has to have the volume to suck your paint and also discharge it through at least two filters. I would not discharge in my house the paint will start showing up everywhere. Thats is my two cents. nukemmcssret

This is a hotly debated topic all over the net regarding end-of-the-world explosion type hype. I've looked all over the net (ie "Googled") it and can't find one report of this happening. If you do the math (Bob K?) you'll see that the amount of air that needs to be moved and concentrations needed for an explosion/fire, there is an extremely low likelihood that the "BOOM" will come. I say "low" because there are always folks out there trying to prove Darwin was right.....

I purchased a commercially available model booth because by I found that by the time I got what I wanted in a booth and the time it took to build it, the better thing to do was just buy one. What I found was...bottom line, most people are just trying to keep stuff (dust) off the painted models and surrounding goodies (overspray) rather than actually evacuate hazardous materials from the area. Just my 4 cents.. .

I say build it! :hot:

 

[troj]

This is the simplified version ,but if you are looking for a takedown/fold away booth ,then it`s really not that hard.The booth itself can be made of almost anything...even cardboard ,but there is a great material that is basically corrogated plastic.It comes in 4 x 8 foot sheets and is 1/4 inch thick.This stuff cuts easily with a utility knife and can be held together with duct tape.

Coroplast is what you're referring to.

Readily available at most sign shops.

-Kevin

 

[sodmeister]

Coroplast is what you're referring to.

Readily available at most sign shops.

-Kevin

Well there you go ,it has a name.I bought mine at a big box warehouse chain here in Canada.

I pretty much agree about explosion proofing fan to a degree.It is nice however to have to only clean the cage ,instead of the motor as well....and it will get dirty (dry paint particulate ,which also degrades performance greatly) even with good pre-filtration.

When I spray and clean (lacquer very often) you will not smell much of anything as the paint flashes off ,so volatiles & VOC`s are being evacuated properly ,as they should be.

Down drafting or at least pulling exhaust from the rear are the better options of controlling paint dust from re-settling on projects.


Paul

 

[Zack Lau]

Just got a Badger spray booth on Ebay for less than it would cost for me to build one--has a nice motor with a flange to 4" duct adapter.

 

[Stymye]

here's a really nice portable for $200...if that's in the price zone

https://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=HSE420.

while I also agree to stay safe, sealed motors is the way to go for long life operation as well ,, in all my years I have never heard or stumbled upon a story where an airbrush spray booth started a fire.

you would have to be spraying a very flammable mixture with reckless abandon.And using an "olden-days" or really crappy motor that emits exposed arcs, that is not typically the case with modern day motors and model airbrushing.

not saying it couldn't happen, but not as easily as one might think..but as always,,err on the side of safety<<

also down draft is the best option , the particulate are easiest to remove that way .
back draft and top draft require more suction and in the case of top draft ,so much suction to do the job, that it can alter the spray from fully contacting the model