I seen that. Isn't flexiblity good? The 7x19 looked better. Maybe I'm wrong. Looking at 1/8" bare with 3/16" including the coating.
It should be. I'm not familiar with 7x19 cable, but I do have experience with 7x7 (it's what I use), so that's why I could recommend it.
Here is the
SS cable that I use (the 90 lb. test version) in my mid power and large low power builds. Since I wasn't sure what strength of cable you wanted I provided the McMaster-Carr link instead, because they have a wider variety and sell their wire rope by the foot. They carry a big variety, but I am not familiar with most of them.
My wife used to be into beading. When I got restarted in rocketry a few years later I devoted much of my first couple of years scratch-building MicroMaxx rockets, mostly out of everyday materials (like Bic pen barrels). I had read about using Kevlar anchors (like Quest does) for shock cords, but I didn't know where to get it, so I started using some bead cable that my wife had. I quickly discovered that there were assorted types of bead cable with very different characteristics. (Don't use "Tiger Tail"; it is no better than picture hanging wire.) The type that worked out best was nylon-coated multi-strand stainless steel microcable from Beadalon. I found several versions of it in Michael's Crafts, and that is how I first learned about the relationship of strand count to flexibility. (Yeah, greater flexibility is a good thing.) Their 7x49 cable is so slinky that it can be knotted just like carpet thread, which it superficially resembles. The strongest version is 20 lb. test, so when I wanted to use it in larger rockets I had to find another source. I started using fishing leader, but the highest strand count that I could find for it was 7x7. It turned out to be more than slinky enough for my needs.
To create loops and to "tie" it off I use
crimp barrels. I anchor one end of the cable to the motor mount by wrapping it around the motor tube to create a
constrictor knot, and then I affix the tag end to the free part of the cable with a crimp barrel (or two). I create a loop in the upper end and close it off with one or two more crimp barrels. I crimp (crush down) the barrels with a pair of vice grips. Properly crimped, the loop is secure and will never slip or come apart. I tie the actual shock cord to that loop.
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