Here’s why I probably sound like a stopped clock when I harp about tinning leads used in terminal strips:
https://wiringharnessnews.com/article/2901/
https://wiringharnessnews.com/article/2901/
Good short article. Worth a read for sure.Here’s why I probably sound like a stopped clock when I harp about tinning leads used in terminal strips:
https://wiringharnessnews.com/article/2901/
I agree, Steve, and I certainly have tinned leads, but like you I check them and tighten them each flight. More than anything I just want people to know about the slight riskgreat article by the guy at Phoenix. I agree that a tinned wire can deform and loosen with time. For installations that are considered permanent they are ideal. As I said before, the terminal blocks are engineered for that purpose. Our use in rocketry which can require the wires to be taken in and out a lot, is what I was talking about. I always double check terminal blocks connections before the rocket flies. If anything had loosened, I would have caught it. I will still tin wires in my bays to take care of wire strands, etc that could be a bigger problem.
I didnt even notice there were those options. I use the 4-jaw crimper and its great for me.Any strong opinions on square vs. hex crimpers for the ferrules in these applications?
I didnt even notice there were those options. I use the 4-jaw crimper and its great for me.
The White ones. But seriously I get the kit and only a few will fit any individual terminal block. After that the one thats close to the wire diameter used.Any suggestions on the three or four ferrule sizes to keep on hand for the basic wiring of avionics bays?
And I do realize this is dependent on the wire gauge, terminal block, etc. But in your experience what
sizes cover most applications for your builds. (trying to avoid turning this into a glue thread, lol)
There's a chart here with sizes and color codes (in the three different systems):
https://www.efixx.co.uk/Know How/ferrules
This one recommends ferrule size vs. wire gauge:
https://www.interpower.com/ic/desig...guides-and-charts/ferrule-selection-guide.pdf
For even smaller wires, FerrulesDirect has some:The chart on that link stops at 20 gauge. The white ferrules are good for 22 gauge. Good to go.
You know we are living in a guilded age when there is such a thing as "Ferrules Direct"For even smaller wires, FerrulesDirect has some:
https://www.ferrulesdirect.com/products/aw02508
Exactly my thought. It’s like a David Letterman thing.You know we are living in a guilded age when there is such a thing as "Ferrules Direct"
Exactly my thought. It’s like a David Letterman thing.
No, but if you tin your leads and insert them into terminal strips like Phoenix makes you should check them periodically to make sure they’re still tight.So now, ferrules are the only way to go?
Any strong opinions on square vs. hex crimpers for the ferrules in these applications?
The reality of the matter is that I like my electrical toys. That's why I have a Panduit zip tie gun and put ferrules on stuff. Definitely not required, but if you're going to do something, do it the best way you can and use the proper tools and supplies. My opinion only.
Sandy.
Me too. I have always been a mechanical guy, but after I found out that electrical stuff wasn't impossible, I became a little bit of both. At work, I became the controls engineering manager for a while, as nobody could BS me, as I knew enough about all 3 disciplines (mechanical, electrical and software) and how they interacted to figure out if somebody was blowing smoke. Software would blame sensors or mechanical, electrical would blame software or mechanical, mechanical would blame both software and electrical at the same time. I had no problem figuring out what the real issue was and then telling the right group to fix it. Did some pretty cool stuff. Once everybody realized I was going to figure out who to make responsible to fix things, everybody started working together better instead of trying to make up stuff to deflect responsibility. They would often see something wasn't working right and try to make sure they weren't really the cause instead of immediately blaming a different group. Often times, all three groups would then find areas that were deficient (i.e. mechanical would see a tolerance that was too loose, electrical would see sensor drift and software would realize that a calculation was a little off). Once everybody fixed things in their own discipline, the whole product got soooo much better than any single fix would have made.I'm a mechanical, not a sparky. That my be why I invest in the tools to make the mechanical aspects of my wiring groovy.
Electrical connections is mechanics.I'm a mechanical, not a sparky. That my be why I invest in the tools to make the mechanical aspects of my wiring groovy.
Our electrical department would agree, as would the hydraulics department for both wet and dry connections. The mechanical department would disagree and the assembly department would say for sure that the mechanical guys sure as he$$ should not be specifying electrical or hydraulic connectors/fittings. After specifying both hydraulic fittings and electrical connectors, I understand why electrical engineers seem to have twitches more often than not. Working through the BS of "any option is an option, except it isn't available" is much worse in electrical for smaller purchasing companies vs. the hydraulic guys for small companies. The hydraulic guys seems to say "heck no, you can't get that, so use these two" while electrical guys seems to say "sure, no problem, put that on your BOM and we'll kill your lead-time once you place a PO". My experience only. Possibly also the current automobile, industrial/commercial, aerospace , housing and construction (and likely a few I didn't think of) industry experience as well, but I don't claim to represent those industries (nor the industry I do represent in my limited capacity. . .I represent nobody, not even myself. I think that's enough disclaimers. . . )Electrical connections is mechanics.
Electrical connections is mechanics.
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