Qucikest easiest,smelliest and messiest way to fix your problem finish is to use Lacquer thinner. Make sure you have good ventilation, plenty of rags or paper towel pieces (small pieces), and a bucket or pail to work over/from. Pour a quart or so into your bucket.. I suggest doing this outside. Even my Great better 2/3rds reacts when I use Lacquer thinner in the basement
Seat yourself so the bucket is between your legs with the model hangs over the bucket. Wearing rubber gloves! dip a rag in the liquid and flow it over the model soaking everything. Note! if the model has a plastic nose cone be very careful while removing the paint, Lacquer thinner will attack and melt ANY plastic parts in short order. keep wiping until all the paint and primer are removed down to bare body tube or balsa.
Tight places can be hit with an old tooth brush.
Once your happy with the bare model, set it aside to completely dry whick will not take very long at all. You should be able to begin applying primer the same day.
Fluorescent paints are the worst for crazing underlaying paints and primers. Your primer should be no problem IF you apply at least 2 coats of gloss white of the same brand as the fluorescent material. Apply fluorescent colors in LIGHT coats, allowing at least 3 -5 minutes between coat applications until you have built up the color denisity your looking for. Do not try to get full density on the first pass.
I can't stress enought how important it is to STICK with the same brand of gloss white base coat and Fluorescent color.