paint prep

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Well-Known Member
May 25, 2009
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What, if anything, do you use to clean a rocket between paint coats
I put on a color coat,then decals and when I went to clear coat, several spots on the rocket repelled the paint.
I think they call it fish eyes.
It only seemed to happen on the decals which were paper .
So I let the rocket dry a few days, sanded and tried to clear again with the same results in the same spots.
I'd suggest not using spray clear coats, Future or a good auto wax like Nu-Finish will protect your decals, Better than a clear coat.
If you still want to use Spray clears I'd suggest wiping the model down with an automotive paint type "Tac-Rag" they will help remove any mold release or other junk on the surface. rubbing Alcohol can also be used but take care to let it evaporate completely, than wipe with a Tac-rag.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
How much drying time did you allow the color coat, before spraying the clear? And, did you use the same brand and type? For drying time, if you can still smell the paint, it's not dry yet.

Another thing to factor in, is humidity. Humidity can affect paints and clear coats pretty badly.
I've messed with future floor finish and can't get the finish I want.
Not sure why.
My last rocket was cleared then 1500 sanded then finess 2 glazing or polish.
Slick as glass.

The color coat dried for at least a week.
I used all Krylon.
The problem seemed to only happen on the paper decals.
I'll try again on the next rocket. I'm discusted with the problem rocket so it goes in with the flyers .

I know it's taboo, but the rockets that come out really nice rarely fly.
The ones that turn out so so are my regular fliers.
Am I alone in that respect??
:p :p :p
it's possible you got fingerprints on the rocket when you put the decals on,, best advice is to wash your hands well before handling the rocket while painting/decaling.
You can NOT use clear over a finesse-it-II finish, well not with krylon anyway. Finesse-it is the Finial finish, you CAN finesse-it over your DRY decals. Then apply 2 coats of Nu-finish auto wax. your good to go for a least a year.

If you really must use a clear coat, I'd strongly suggest NOT using the finesse-it-II. Wet sand your final color coat with 600 grit. That final color coat should dry until "you can't smell it". Put your nose on the model..if you can smell the paint...leave it alone. Apply your decals after the color coat is dry, then let the decal dry a day or so, then try your clear coat. I'd suggest on a sample piece you painted at the same time, if no problem with the sample, than go ahead with the model.

Seriouly I haven't gloss clear coated any model in about 5 or 6 years. Most people cant tell my models are only waxed.

Just so you know I use Finesse-it-II to remove old yellowed clear coat from models without removing the decals;) It will not remove the yellow Decal Clear however:( Takes a 15 year old finish and make it look new again.. well except the decal:)

No I fly everything I make. If I wanted to build static models I'd sick to Plastic models;) If you build MUST Fly:D:D
The rocket i had trouble with was not finessed.Only paint and decals.
I've always used finesse after the last cearcoat and 1500 sanding.
Gives an almost wet look.
I've got a finish rocket (black) that's not cleared.
I'll try spiffing up the color coat on it.
I agree 1500 wet sanding/ finesse-it rub-out give a water wet fininsh on Krylon Color coats and Automotive basecoat/clearcoat paints, but NOT krylon clears, specifically 1301, 1303 or 1306. Finesse-it softens these clears using a finesse-it soaked damp cloth (T-shirt type) which will remove every bit of your Krylon clear with minimal rubbing. Be Careful:)
this Bullpup has NO clear coat at all, simply finesse-it-II after decaling.
Hope this helps
well...on the more expensive side, 2 part urethane will give you a glass like finish but requires a resperator, good ventilation, and you have to cover any exposed skin.
it's a little troublesome to work with and about $30 a quart (and up..)
I'm lucky enough to have the resources to spray it safely, and it's
about as clear and shiney as you could get.

heres my v2 nosecone using Matrix 2 part urethane
If your talking about the aerosol spary type, Yes with care. you have to be sure the Krylon is Totally dry (sometimes as long as a week) and apply at least two very very light begining coats. allow to dry, then apply a couple fairly wet coats. These paints are Polyurethanes by the way NOT ture Urethane which are 2 part paint and catylast material. Polyurethanes are a plastisized enamel with a built-in hardener.
Is New Finish a wax ?
What is the special proporties of it over another wax or polish?

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