Outlanders Leg Constuction ?

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Aug 15, 2002
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Having finished construction on my Outlanders legs there is one area that I don't like and would like to modify. I have a lot of concern about the Small launch lug like tube that is used to secure the elastic cord to each leg. It seems to me with each landing, most of the landing force is placed against that lugs glued surface trying to tear it off the leg.

Has anyone experienced this type of failure when flying the Outlander?

Has anyone devised a better method out there?

Also, I too have scratched my head on the notch that several people have made reference to on each leg. I have resisted filling it in, because I wonder if it serves as a stress reliever on the landing. Similar to why they put expansion lines in a concrete sidewalk. Opinions?

Larry, that notch you're talking about is a leftover from the Estes Mars Lander. The Outlander's leg patterns are recycled from that kit and with the Mars Lander, that was where the rubber bands were attached. It wouldn't hurt a bit to fill it in.

I have almost finished my Outlander. It's a pretty good kit isn't it? I am kicking myself for not changing the engine mount so it can fly with D engines though. I've heard nothing but bad reports about it's performance on C's. Has anyone here actually had a good flight with a C?
Mark, I built mine with the 18mm mount also. I haven't flown it yet (It's been windy in Oklahoma for the last TWO WEEKS). Hopefully I'll get to try it out at NSL this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

I may be looking for a 18mm RMS casing and some D loads though. :D

Here's a picture to inspire you Larry...

John, great job. I'm definitely going to be doing an outlander in the the Mars Lander scheme like that. Did you prepaint any of the white parts before assembly? I was wondering how hard it would be to get the paint into the nooks and crannies if you didn't do some prepainting.

You definately want to paint as much as you can before you assemble it. Once together, those nooks and crannies you mention are hard to hit with the Krylone spray can. I prepainted the legs, capsule and nose cone, and the part on the main body tube that will show between all the "tanks".

I didn't bother pre-painting all the tanks....too much trouble. Be sure to sand off the paint where all the parts go on so the glue will hold.

Once together, I scrunched up some aluminum foil around the red legs...sliping a bit of foil up the leg slots to keep the white paint of the red. The I carefully went over the whole thing again with a coat of gloss white.

It seemed like I'd never would get the thing finished, but it turned out pretty nice.

Good Luck,
Shinbone, thanks for the reply, your review was great. Since I haven't finished the kit yet I think I can still switch to the 24mm mount. Now, I wonder how much noseweight I will have to use for the difference?

John, thanks for the input on the painting. One thing I did on my Outlander was to cut strips of masking tape 1/8" wide and put it on the tanks and the body tube so after painting I can just peel them off and I have clean glue surfaces.
Thats a sweet looking Outlander you have OKTurbo! An upscale is in demand!
Mine flew Ok on a C6-3. Went up very slowly to maybe 150 feet tops. I also used an Estes 24 inch chute for recovery which worked great.

The next one I build will have a 24mm motor mount though. You could then fly it on anything from C11-3's to AT F39T's.