Today I practiced epoxy fin filets with a stainless fondant tool, masking tape, 3/16ths aluminum setup block, and some curly maple scrap and acetone for cleanup, and lubricant for the fondant tool
My first epoxy fin filets (Courtesy of @Hobie1dog)
- Thread starter Wrightme43
- Start date
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Then I marked the Aspire fins with the marking block and a pencil, cut frogtape, and mixed up more epoxy, and did as closely as I could to follow his very detailed instructions. I am very pleased with the results. The only change I made was dropping down to 3/16 from 3/8ths. This is a very narrow rocket with very thin fins. I tested 3/8th but it was just way to much. He build beautiful large rockets, and I have never used anything more than titebond III for mine. 
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I think the wicking of epoxy under the tape is due to over doing the acetone. It is not visible as a layer above the wood, just in it. I think it will work.
I ordered 2 F20WT8 motors today.
Yesterday I got some D12-6 and E12-6 last night. My daughter got a Cherokee E so we can use the Ds and Es.
I have learned alot from you all here, but I especially want to thank Hobie1dog for his help. He has taken time out of his day, to answer several questions for me, and to encourage me.
Steve.
I ordered 2 F20WT8 motors today.
Yesterday I got some D12-6 and E12-6 last night. My daughter got a Cherokee E so we can use the Ds and Es.
I have learned alot from you all here, but I especially want to thank Hobie1dog for his help. He has taken time out of his day, to answer several questions for me, and to encourage me.
Steve.
WOW.. that looks GREAT! Nice work!
It worked 
Glad you found out that you should use the smaller sizes for skinny rockets, I forgot to tell you that. Sounds like you're ready for some nice Global Adhesives fillets
Glad you found out that you should use the smaller sizes for skinny rockets, I forgot to tell you that. Sounds like you're ready for some nice Global Adhesives fillets
I will definitely buy thier epoxy. I really like the replaceable mixer nozzle and gun idea.
Thank you again!
They look really smooth, and aerodynamically faired, better than I could of hoped for a 1st timer.
Steve
Thank you again!
They look really smooth, and aerodynamically faired, better than I could of hoped for a 1st timer.
Steve
Thanks for mentioning Global Adhesives @Hobie1dogIt worked
They've got glue for things I've never thought of !
Going to have to check them out !
-- kjh
EDIT:
Ouch ! The gunsmith in me is crying out in agony
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Is there a reason you're not simply using wood glue?
Scott_650
Well-Known Member
Epoxy gives you a smoother, harder fillet that doesn’t shrink near as much - if at all - as wood glue, and it can be sanded smoother. On the con side it’s messier, smelly and toxic compared to a PVA based glue so it’s all down to what you prefer.
As far as strength goes, on a wood and paper rocket wood glue is as strong as the stuff being fillleted, on a fiberglass rocket epoxy is going to bond much better.
Lol! I have goofy amounts of curly maple, 3 different batches. Curly heart (country curly maple) curly clear white, and curly ambrosia maple. I also have curly maple veneer, and maple burl veneer.Thanks for mentioning Global Adhesives @Hobie1dog
They've got glue for things I've never thought of !
Going to have to check them out !
-- kjh
EDIT:
Ouch ! The gunsmith in me is crying out in agony
This is a shaker style (sorta) wedged thru mortise and tenon curly maple step stool I made for my son. The finish is the late 1700s ferric iron heated to caramelize the wood with rubio monocoat over it. Have you ever tried it? It really brings out the curl. Before heating it is almost green on the wood.
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Yes, I am trying to learn how to make strong good looking filets, and I plan to fly it on a F20W composite motor after testing on the D and E black powder motors. You are probably right, I may just be over doing it. Its fun though, and made me happy.
Steve
That is with rustoleum 2x, 2 coats primer, three coats of yellow, two coats clear, a few random bugs that decided they wanted to commit suicide, and have thier corpses launched into the sky, some random dust from my woodshop and what not as a finish. I normally use two part hardened wax/oil, accelerator finish on wood and do not spray finish, so that is another thing I am learning.
2x will work as long as you DO NOT sand it, and apply all coats seperated by 15 minutes. No wrinkles or cracks this time.
I did have several pin bubbles that blew as solvent in the pin holes tried to get out. Most of them popped on thier own.
Thank you all for your help and advice, especially @Hobie1dog
Steve
2x will work as long as you DO NOT sand it, and apply all coats seperated by 15 minutes. No wrinkles or cracks this time.
I did have several pin bubbles that blew as solvent in the pin holes tried to get out. Most of them popped on thier own.
Thank you all for your help and advice, especially @Hobie1dog
Steve
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I couldn't have said it better @Wrightme43 -- and that's why I love rocketry
I like your paint job -- I don't see no bugs nor dust
That turned out really nice. The wicking you are seeing is completely normal for epoxy and is actually a good thing as it soaks into the wood and makes things stronger. On some builds, I've coated the entire fins to add strength.
One word of warning. Epoxy is addictive. I find myself using it on builds that don't need it simply because I like to use it
One word of warning. Epoxy is addictive. I find myself using it on builds that don't need it simply because I like to use it
Thanks for the pictures
How did the ceremony go?Our minister said "Molly & Holly instead of Marty & Holly
Very well! Thank you!
It was a honor to be asked.
It was a honor to be asked.
Nice. Keep practicing. You will get even better.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
I'm all in for learning how to make strong good looking fillets from alternate materials. Well done.
But for the record.. PVA would work fine for a rocket powered by a F20W... I used an F42 in my "Hammerhead" and it had wood glue fillets.
Yes sir, I agree with you.
I just wanted to try it.
I just wanted to try it.
What do you think about drilling vent holes, so that the nose cone doesn't come off early due to pressure differential inside and out?
Is the a height of flight that is generally accepted as necessary? Say after 2500 feet or 3500 feet?
Thank you.
Steve
loopy
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Generally only need that for high power where you're moving a lot faster and going higher. You're fine without it here unless you're planning on going more than 3,000'.
The F20 says 3700 feet.
I think it would be one of those probably don't need it, but if it does need it, having it, could help prevent a disaster.
loopy
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Yeah. Wouldn't hurt.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Do it... there is no reason not to. Just don't make them too large.
Going to have an altimeter? Might use that logic in sizing the holes.
I want a altimeter, but I want a jolly logic chute release more. Like a lot more. I saw one in use at the bluesrock meet, and that is a heck of a idea.
I am pretty sure Richard could drop his rocket in a dry kiddie pool. He was super cool, his rockets looked great, and flew great. He told me the chute release was one of the best things he had found.
Any advice on how to size the holes? I have a brass pen vise, I have brad point drill bits.
I am pretty sure Richard could drop his rocket in a dry kiddie pool. He was super cool, his rockets looked great, and flew great. He told me the chute release was one of the best things he had found.
Any advice on how to size the holes? I have a brass pen vise, I have brad point drill bits.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
And that's all that matters. Sure you don't "need" it here, but what better way to practice than with a model that's less expensive than a true HP rated kit? I cut my filet teeth on a Big Daddy......and trust me, my first filets did NOT look as good as yours. But I did that because I didn't want to screw up my Leviathan that I was about to fin up. The BD let me make the mistakes so I could avoid them on the more expensive kit (and the Daddy still flies great, just don't LOOK too closely at it!) ;-)
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
I......think?.......the JL chute release also recommends venting the tube, for the same reason as the altimeter. I'd have to go back and re-read the destructions on mine but I thought that was the case. Someone smarter than I can correct me if I'm wrong here.
But I totally agree with you on the Jolly Logic. I got one recently on Amazon, haven't flown it yet but I already have a couple ideas of what rockets would need it. My 24mm 3-motor cluster Phoenix comes to mind immediately. That thing MOVES.
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