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Originally posted by stymye
...and don't use krylon clear on them
Click to expand...

So now you agree with me..Sheesh! I've been afraid to mention it since I got stepped on so hard over in the Scratch building thread:(
Testors dull coat or krylon workable fixatif has worked best for me.
 
I agree with Micro... I killed an otherwise beautiful restoration of my old Goblin by applying Krylon over the TP deacls. Use Future floor finish. I have two coats on my Red Max and it looks like it has an almost liquid surface!!
 
Astron:
I agree with "Future floor polish" on dark colored models but not on white or silver base color models, It yellows pretty badly over time, almost as bad as the clear coats.
 
I can't stand Krylon clear for ANY application. It bubbles, it doesn't go on truly clear, and does not give a nice glossy finish. I applied some over black paint and got a dull, smoked glass looking finish. Almost gray looking. TERRIBLE!

I've had fantastic luck with Testors "High Gloss Cote." You have to look for it a bit (it is acrylic/enamal, rather than lacquer) and works great. The regular "Gloss Cote" works very well too and is lacquer based.

For some reason, the spray action on the testors gloss cotes "atomizes" the cote you're applying much better (it gives a much finer spray) which gives a highly superior finish in my opinion.

Oh, and it works just fine over TangoPapa's decals.


Speaking of TangoPapa decals - I recommend coating them with MicroScale liquid decal film as is recommended on the included sheets that you receive with your decals. It's readily available, applies easily, and dries quickly. I typically start applying my decals about 20-30 minutes after applying the microscale film because it dries so fast.

Another tip there - if you're working with smaller or rather long decals that you are afread of tearing, just apply the microscale film extra thick (or a second coat.) The microscale film adds a bunch of strength to the "uncoated" decals - as well as protecting them so your not wiping away color as you apply them. The main thing is to not skimp too much when you apply the microscale film or you will have some trouble with TangoPapa's decals.
 
Micro ,
I didn't know I had disagreed with you on that....LOL

I use krylon on BEL decals,, different matter alltogether
 
Originally posted by Micromister
Astron:
I agree with "Future floor polish" on dark colored models but not on white or silver base color models, It yellows pretty badly over time, almost as bad as the clear coats.
Click to expand...

You know, I seem to remember a solution to the Future yellowing problem from my plastic modelling days. I remember something about thinning the Future Floor Polish with automobile windshield washer fluid. The idea is that the alcohol and detergents in the fluid make the Future go on smoother, and the blue color cuts down on the yellowing (I remember when I was building Star Trek starship miniatures - painting them white made them look yellowish, but a drop of sky blue in the paint made them look white - same reason I think Bluing is added to white clothing in the wash). Any one else ever heard of this or tried it?

Greg
 
OK, I looked at JimZ's site for the der red max, but the directions come up fuzzy. What am I doing wrong here?
 
What about decals from Jim Z. What finish DON'T I use on those? I have a set of Gobblin and Red Max decals on the way and don't want to mess those up.
 
Don't use Krylon clear on any decals!!

I only use Future Floor polish or Testor Glosscoat or Dullcoat.

Blue_Ninja,

Right click on the image and save as a target. If it isn't in PDF you have to download each page.

All you really need is a Mean Machine nose cone(PN-C60AH, I have plenty if ya want one), the fin pattern and the body tube length(BT-60HE is 8.5" long), a set of decals and an 18mm motor mount for a BT-60.

All "off the shelf "stuff.

Don't buy a kit!

sandman
 
If ya want to do a Der BIG Red Max just use a full length BT-60 body tube (18" long)

sandman
 
Can you tell me the technique you use with the Future floor polish? is it sprayed on or brushed? Is it cut with anything or full strength?:confused:
 
I've never used Rustolium clear...so I couldn't say.

I brush the Future on. One thin coat. It works well on dark colors.

Someone posted just recently that they thinned it with automotive washer solvent. I never tried that but it makes sense.

sandman
 
.you can thin it with windshield solvent for spraying thru an airbrush.
 
if you want to make a big der red max just buy a screamin mimi it has the bt 60 tube which is 18 inches and also uses the same nose cone, the balsa fins look pretty close to the real thing, but a tad on the small side . the cool thing about the mimi is that it comes with 4 bt 20 tubes which i am currently building a 18mm cluster with. the decals are on the olde rocket shoppe web site, i will post some pics soon. i actually bought the kit for 5 dollars at hobby lobby this week on its 1/2 off sale.
 
Originally posted by rick003
if you want to make a big der red max just buy a screamin mimi it has the bt 60 tube which is 18 inches and also uses the same nose cone, the balsa fins look pretty close . . .
Click to expand...

rick003 is only 'two posts old' and he is pitching in here on TRF with great suggestions like this! I never made the connection between the Mimi and the Max, but that is an excellent idea, I'm gonna have to go get one or two Mimi's now!

Welcome to TRF, rick003, and jump back in here anytime with more good ideas. We are glad to have you with us!
 

Can I just post my "RED MAX" picture again...???
(just think it's cool...)

LOL...
 
I remember seing a 4" Diameter RED MAX once... That would be cool :)

I only seen one RED MAX.... about 85 or 86, when I was at KB, looking at my first model rocket kit.... I was looking at the Red Max and the Marauder. I chose the Marauder.

I thought the Red Max had a 24mm mount? Did Estes have a bigger version... or has my memory have been warped due to eons of time degregation? :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by n3tjm
I remember seing a 4" Diameter RED MAX once... That would be cool :)

I only seen one RED MAX.... about 85 or 86, when I was at KB, looking at my first model rocket kit.... I was looking at the Red Max and the Marauder. I chose the Marauder.

I thought the Red Max had a 24mm mount? Did Estes have a bigger version... or has my memory have been warped due to eons of time degregation? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I built a 4" Red Max about 10 years ago and certified Level 1 with it. I flew it on H and I motors. It's retired now because I don't do high power anymore.

I'm currently scratch building a 2/6" Max with 24mm mount. I have the nosecone turned and fins ready to mount. I have plans to make a BT-101 version as soon as I get around to placing an order from Totally Tubular. I want to make it as light as possible and fly it on a black powder D or E cluster.

I am currently designing and flying rockets with black powder propulsion mainly for nostalgia reasons and because Aerotech E and F motors are all but extinct in these parts.
 
I have Krylon #2108 Banner Red is this the correct Red For either the Der Red Max and The Der V-3 ?:confused:
John
BAR
 
Originally posted by johnnwwa
I have Krylon #2108 Banner Red is this the correct Red For either the Der Red Max and The Der V-3 ?:confused:
John
BAR
Click to expand...

I used Krylon Banner Red Gloss on both my Red Max and Der V3 (and a few other rockets too!) I'm too lazy to find where the pics are posted on this board of the Der v3, but my Red Max is on page one of this thread (not a great pic, but you get the idea.)

The banner red is a nice, solid, rich, "primary color" red gloss. You will be happy with the results, unless you are hoping for a red that leans to the darker or "maroon" side or lighter "orange" side (in which cases you should pick a different shade of red.)

I guess I'm saying that I personally would recommend the Krylon banner red for your two rockets mentioned above.
 
Originally posted by n3tjm
I remember seing a 4" Diameter RED MAX once... That would be cool :)

I only seen one RED MAX.... about 85 or 86, when I was at KB, looking at my first model rocket kit.... I was looking at the Red Max and the Marauder. I chose the Marauder.

I thought the Red Max had a 24mm mount? Did Estes have a bigger version... or has my memory have been warped due to eons of time degregation? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

The standard der Red Max was alway packaged with an 18mm motor mount as a nice "sport flier." I don't remember on the "Big" red max.

I built my Red Max clone with a 24mm motor mount, just because I wanted to and being true to the original wasn't that important to me. In fact, my first Red Max (right from the kit) was one of my favorites as a kid, but I always thought it needed more power! Flies BEAUTIFULLY on a D12-5. D12-7 is a tad long on the delay. C11-5 works well too, but you get a noticeable altitude jump on the D.
 
Hi jawohl heir Red Max ist ein grose raketen:D

I've been planning my L1 build for quite some time now and was going to base it on a 3" airframe.
I've got the Sprint all drawn up so that will have to be built.
Since I did buy 2 airframes I should build myself a Der Red Max.

Max is propably the easier to build of the 2.
It's time to get a hold of Tango Papa and order some decals.
I believe he sells the T-shirt so I can get my L1 cert in true style:D
Hi Tbzep if you have any hints for me it would be awesome.
I'm going to use a ceasaroni pro38 with the kwick switch hardware 54/38 for true power in the future.
Archstung Der Red Max goes sonic :D :D
Mike
 
My 4" Max was built with standard TTW construction, nothing special. I made the motor mount a bit too long to comfortably pack a large chute, but at the time of construction, I didn't know what size motors I would want to use.

When I built my 4" diameter Goblin, I remedied the motor mount situation, making it no longer than what was needed. I even had room to make it dual recovery, which was nice for demos on smaller fields. Since the Max had a slightly shorter body, I really should have made the motor mount as short as possible.

If you plan to fly the Max on hard hitting motors, you might want to look at glassing the fins. The fins are pretty big and might want to flutter at high velocities. I flew some hard hitting DPS EX motors in the upper end of the "I" range with no problems, but I don't think I could have flown a "J" without glassing them. IIRC, I used 3/16" aircraft ply for the fins.
 
Originally posted by extremevelocity
Hi jawohl heir Red Max ist ein grose raketen:D
......
Click to expand...
Good thing our english ist besser als Dein deutsch ;) :D
 
Just to keep things in line with the low power forum. Here's a Red Max clone and it's brother.

The Blue Max was built with one of my first nosecone turnings and with my first set of homemade waterslide decals, but it turned out pretty nice. To top it off, it was the first rocket I ever finished with Future Floor polish.

The image quality isn't very good. Both the red and blue paint are much deeper and look a lot better than the photo.
https://bellsouthpwp.net/t/b/tbzep/RocketPics/Double Maxed.JPG
 
TBZEP, I see a Der Red Max and Der Blue Max....Do I see a Der Les Paul? Nice Rockets though!
 
Thanx again guys.I tend to get carried away with all my projects sometimes.
I built a tiny Der Big Red Max recently for 13mm motor and it really ripped.
As a matter of fact it flew so well that it got stuck in the top of a tree.
I used a tiny 2' streamer and it was fairly calm (5ph wind).
I posted a link here recently here it is again.
https://www.rocketreviews.com/reviews/scratch/est_mini_classics.html
Mike
 

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