Metal Lathes

[Aksrockets]

A few weeks ago my HF 7x10 metal lathe died on me. Shocker, I know. The lathe had become such an integral part of my shop that It'll be weird working without it. I'm now in the market for a new metal lathe.
While it worked, the HF lathe wasn't too bad. Near the end of it's life I could make a pretty accurate part (usually +- .001) without too much work. It was great for small parts (under 2in diameter and 4in in length). Anything larger got cumbersome, especially with boring or using a steady rest. I think I'll take this opportunity to upgrade a little.

Here are the ones I'm currently looking at:
Grizzly 7x14. Fairly cheap, but basically a slightly improved version of my HF lathe. Longer bed (actually 6in longer).
https://www.grizzly.com/products/7-X-14-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Lathe/G0765

Micromark 7x16
https://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7x16-MINI-LATHE,9615.html

Of course I've got my eyes on the craigslist / classifieds too!

Those of you with metal lathes, what do you have? Like it? Don't like it? Wish you would have bought another one? Any input would be appreciated!

Alex

 

[patelldp]

I firmly believe you're better off looking for an older machine that is in good shape. You may have to do things like wire the motor 110V or add a dedicated 220V line, swap a 3-phase motor for a single phase, or clean it up, but I think it's totally worth it for an old American made tool.

Look for a nice South Bend 9", or larger if you're interested. If you're out West, you will likely have to pay more than I did. I bought my South Bend 13" x 6' for $700...1950's machine that lived its previous life in a High School shop. Has some wear and tear as a result, but works quite well for the price!

 

[bobkrech]

Do you know what failed. Most lathes can be fixed much cheaper than they can be replaced....

Bob

 

[Aksrockets]

It was something electrical. At first I thought it was a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse, no joy. Then I thought it was the potentiometer. I overrided it and didn't have any luck there. I could order a whole new electronics package for about $150, but the other parts of the lathe need replacing too. The cross slide was in need of repair, I was missing an external chuck jaw, and the entire lathe started preforming worse and worse. When I first got it I could take 20 thousandths cuts in .5in aluminum without a problem. Towards the end of it's life a 20 thousandths was really straining the machine. I'm not sure if this was a motor problem or something else. I could spend the money to get everything back to new, but It'd cost about as much to just buy a new one. Plus, I want an upgrade.

I firmly believe you're better off looking for an older machine that is in good shape. You may have to do things like wire the motor 110V or add a dedicated 220V line, swap a 3-phase motor for a single phase, or clean it up, but I think it's totally worth it for an old American made tool.

Look for a nice South Bend 9", or larger if you're interested. If you're out West, you will likely have to pay more than I did. I bought my South Bend 13" x 6' for $700...1950's machine that lived its previous life in a High School shop. Has some wear and tear as a result, but works quite well for the price!

I've been on the lookout. There's a Southbend 10K 36in lathe near me for $1200, but it's from 1951 and needs a few repairs.

It might be worth noting that I'll be in college in a few months with access to a full machine shop. I'll start cranking out custom cases then.

Alex

 

[cherokeej]

Little mini-lathes are pretty useful for making small parts like nosecone tips, motor closures, nozzles, and the like. Even small bulkheads. But for making cases, you're going to need a bigger machine.

Small cases can be made on smaller machines. Making 24's and 29's on a little 9-20 is a snap.

It's easy to make 29's, 38's, and shorter 54's on my old Enco 12-36. I might even get away with a coffee can K in 75mm, but that's about it on that machine. The steady for it is too small for 75's.

I used to have access to an old Southbend 16-60. Made some 54's, 75's, and 98's on that bad boy. :grin:

I wouldn't mind having access to a big bore. Nice oil country lathe. Pretty much designed for threading the ends of 6" pipes. You ain't burnin' AP until you're burnin' it by the barrel. :lol:

 

[patelldp]

I've been on the lookout. There's a Southbend 10K 36in lathe near me for $1200, but it's from 1951 and needs a few repairs.
Alex

Link? A 10k is a nice machine. You could always offer less and see if they are interested.

 

[patelldp]

I wouldn't mind having access to a big bore. Nice oil country lathe. Pretty much designed for threading the ends of 6" pipes. You ain't burnin' AP until you're burnin' it by the barrel. :lol:

You and me both...my South Bend has the "large through hole," which means 1.375" or so. I can fit 38mm stock about 7-8" through the chuck, but not all the way through the head stock. I can fit 29mm all the way through, however...

 

[cavecentral]

I have the harbor freight. Mine has plastic / nylon gears inside that I had to replace (running but chuck did not turn).

Press needed to push back together with the bearings etc.

parts / upgrades from littlemachineshop.com. Might be worth troubleshooting. I upgraded my chuck to a 5", got a larger tail stock bull nose, quici change tool rest, etc.

Still can't do cases or anything, but great for 54mm and under nozzles / closures.

 

[cherokeej]

You and me both...my South Bend has the "large through hole," which means 1.375" or so. I can fit 38mm stock about 7-8" through the chuck, but not all the way through the head stock. I can fit 29mm all the way through, however...

I know what you mean. My Enco was that way. Had a 1 7/16" spindle bore. Just a taste too small for 38's...

Right up until ran that boring bar thru there. Can't recommend it for every lathe out there, but I got away with it. Now I can do long 38's all day in the 4 jaw, without having to mess with the steady. (I should mention that I have over-sized 8" chucks for that machine. I originally bought the lathe to do bulkheads for some bigger airframes.)

 

[MarkH]

I have access to the same HF mini lathe and was going to try and make a short 1 inch long boat tail from 3.25 OD x 2.50 ID " Al pipe, for a 3 inch rocket. I just plan to reduce it to the 3.125 " standard tube OD and then put a taper on, leaving the ID as is. I see most say this lathe is good for 2 inch and under. Is this lathe up to the task for a 3 inch boat tail?

 

[cherokeej]

You betcha. A 3" boattail should be no trouble in a mini. Just match the speed and feed to the job, and take it easy on the depth-of-cut, and you'll be OK.

 

[Aksrockets]

Link? A 10k is a nice machine. You could always offer less and see if they are interested.

https://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=34399482&cat=&lpid=1&search=Lathe&ad_cid=7

Doesn't look too bad. It's old but it looks like it's been taken good care of. However, its pretty bulky with the motor sticking so far out, so It won't fit in my workshop well.
With a $1200 price range, this one's also on my radar. Its quite a big step up from the smaller mini lathes.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x-22-Bench-Top-Metal-Lathe/G0602
[video=youtube;MequVyAkNwo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MequVyAkNwo[/video]

Most of what I'm doing is smaller parts. Closures, nozzles, bulkheads, maybe some transitions or small NC molds. I don't think I'll do much casing work that requires a super long lathe.

Alex

 

[MarkH]

You betcha. A 3" boattail should be no trouble in a mini. Just match the speed and feed to the job, and take it easy on the depth-of-cut, and you'll be OK.

Fantastic. Thanks.

 

[cherokeej]

Use care, and all necessary PPE. If you've never operated a machine lathe before, it would be a good idea to find a friend that has, and get some pointers.

Even small machines can bite.

 

[patelldp]

https://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=34399482&cat=&lpid=1&search=Lathe&ad_cid=7

Doesn't look too bad. It's old but it looks like it's been taken good care of. However, its pretty bulky with the motor sticking so far out, so It won't fit in my workshop well.
With a $1200 price range, this one's also on my radar. Its quite a big step up from the smaller mini lathes.

That's a really nice lathe at a reasonable price. Seriously, throw $1k out, it's significantly better than mini lathes...

It is pretty bulky for its size. I grew up on a Heavy 10 vs. the 10k, and that Heavy 10 and my 13" both have the underhung motors. The quick change gears are the newer design (dual handles vs. single), the ways look nice (when you go see it see if you can catch a thumbnail on the wear, or maybe the scrapings can still be seen), and it's complete with chuck, tail stock, and tool holder. Ask him for the S/N prior to driving out there and research what features it has (https://www.southbendlathe.com/products/serial_numbers) and hope that it has the "X," which usually means flame hardened bed.

Seriously, buying a machine that's as clean as that is buying "new." Who cares if it was made in the 50's? South Bend is one of the most desirable high end hobby lathes, and they are effectively machine shop level machines. The 3' bed (note that the 3' is not to the right of the chuck, it includes the ways that the headstock sits on) will permit you to make a Loki 38-1200 sized case should you position your grooving tool correctly. It'll also work wonders on everything else you've mentioned you'd like to machine.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask away. South Bends are really, really nice machines. Buy it once and forget about that chinese crap that you've already burned through...

 

[AcidPaintball]

Lathe and a cnc mill has always been on the top of my workshop list. Once I finally settle down and get a home instead of some crap apt., I will be looking more into a South bend lathe. I have used these lathes for years and never failed me.

 

[cherokeej]

What Dan said.

Buy American steel, and never buy again. Quality only hurts once.

 

[patelldp]

Proud daddy photos of my South Bend. It is dirty, it has some dings and wear, but it is mine.

 

[MarkH]

Use care, and all necessary PPE. If you've never operated a machine lathe before, it would be a good idea to find a friend that has, and get some pointers.

Even small machines can bite.

Will do. This is a machine at work they bought for employee personal use. I was safety trained by a co-worker before I could use. I did some practice cuts on small pieces, but have been watching videos for how to do a cone.

 

[patelldp]

Will do. This is a machine at work they bought for employee personal use. I was safety trained by a co-worker before I could use. I did some practice cuts on small pieces, but have been watching videos for how to do a cone.

Odds are you will need a taper attachment do it "well." If you use the compound rest, you'll likely be doing it manually and it won't be uniform.

 

[Landru]

I would tell you to buy a 8x(12,16). It is a very odd offering in that is it a substantially more rigid machine than most of the Chinese 7x or 9x machines. It appears to be quite similar in design to the grizzly 0602 you linked to.

I've been running mine 5 years without any major issue. I've done up to 4" parts in aluminum and graphite (with some care.) I can also take 50 thousandths cuts in 1.5" aluminum using 1/2 in tooling. I've made hundreds if not thousands of parts on it from steel, aluminum, graphite, plastic, and magnesium.

It's relatively small, compact, and HEAVY. It seems like it's only 1" larger then the 7x, but weighs more than 3x as much.

I bought mine from harbor freight for around $500 after sale and coupon. The price has since gone up to about 800 after 20% off coupon. These days I'd probably get it from Grizzly or Lathe-master as they have better support and more standard tooling.









https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html

 

[cherokeej]

Lube and adjust the gibs on the compound, and pay attention to the edge and feed angle on the tool, and with patience, the compound will do just fine.

I cut angles all the time, but this thing won't let me upload a pic right now. Grrrr!



I've never seen a taper attachment that would cut that acute of an angle, tho.

 

[cherokeej]

Trying...

View attachment 262213

See if it works.

Aha! I think it worked...

This is an ISC I made for a friend a while back. That taper came out pretty sweet. Cut with the compound.

 

[MarkH]

I will likely seek assistance, and see how it goes. If I can't make a halfway decent piece, I was planning to have a machine shop make it initially, so it won't be a big disappointment. Thanks for the insight, and sorry for the thread hi-jack.

 

[caveduck]

If your lathe died electronically there is a pretty good chance your controller board is the problem...it happened to me and I found that it's relatively common. There are a couple of guys that repair them for very reasonable fixed cost ~$60 with shipping. I used https://olduhfguy.com and got good service and advice such as ventilating the controller board housing to limit heat buildup.

Almost all mini-lathes including the HF ones are made by SIEG in China. These days they are pretty decent, especially if you do some of the simple upgrades/corrections (YouTube is full of how-to vids). Little Machine Shop sells some with upgraded motors and component selection. They come in various bed lengths up to 20" nominal.

 

[pyrobob]

I own a 1930's era Atlas lathe and it's terrific. I love it. I would not at all hesitate to pick up a many decades old American engineered lathe versus a newer import. I also spent a fair amount of time on a LeBlond and Southbend lathe like Dan's back in college and they are really nice. Go old school American especially if the opportunity presents itself; as noted in the link posted .

 

[tfish]

I too, have an old Atlas 6x36 lathe. I added a second 36" bed to it and can do some "things" out to almost 7 foot.

I've even turned nose cone plugs on it..

It's old and klunky but I can still find parts for it on ebay.

Lathes are like other 'manly' things. You will always want a bigger one.

I keep thinking about buying a new lathe with a 3" bore.

Tony

 

[ChrisAttebery]

I'd recommend getting the biggest lathe that you can afford/house. Ideally I'd want belt drive (quieter), 120-2500 rpm, power feeds in both directions, quick change threading.

I started out with a 10x20ish ShopTask 3in1 machine and moved to a belt drive 12x36" Taiwanese lathe. The 12x36 didn't have the rpm I wanted but it had everything else. The G0602 is supposed to be a pretty nice machine.

There's an 11" Sheldon lathe on the SLC craigslist for $975. They are supposed to be decent machines.

 

[caveduck]

Arrgh this thread is making me think about looking for more and bigger machine tools. Drooling on my computer over a SB Heavy 10.

Oh yeah, then there's the mill I need...

 

[pyrobob]

I too, have an old Atlas 6x36 lathe. I added a second 36" bed to it and can do some "things" out to almost 7 foot.

I've even turned nose cone plugs on it..

It's old and klunky but I can still find parts for it on ebay.

Lathes are like other 'manly' things. You will always want a bigger one.

I keep thinking about buying a new lathe with a 3" bore.

Tony

That's awesome. How did you secure the wood block to the 3 jaw chuck? Were you just using a live center on the tail stock?