Maxi 4" Boyce Aerospace Hobbies Pershing Build Thread (1/10 scale)

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I am sitting in my hotel room, and I just launched these today. Going to head back to my house tomorrow. I have 45 videos of various flights from the launch that I plan to post on you tube each week, but not all at once. They get more views when I stagger posting. Anyway, the reason I didn't post it here a minute ago is because the video was too long and it wouldn't let me. My video editing software wouldn't work. But now it is working, so here is the video:
 

Attachments

  • Unstable Rocket Flight.mp4
    42.4 MB
The stability was supposedly margin 1.5, according to the Rocsim file I did, when I put in the CG I had measured on my rocket. My CG was also about where Frank Burkes' was, so I'm not sure what I did wrong. I will be more careful in the future.
 
Well, I guess it was unstable after all. :(

Today I flew it, resulting in the nose cone breaking in to pieces and the body tube shredded upon impact. Will never fly again. I did get a cool video for my you tube channel, and a good lesson learned: swing tests don't mean squat. Anyway, just make sure to add a LOT of nose weight. I mean A LOT

View attachment 643772
View attachment 643773
View attachment 643774
So sorry to hear of your ill fated flight.
I’ve purchased blue tube for my build, hoping to add durability. I’m considering lead shot mixed with epoxy for nosecone weight.
 
Look at your video frame by frame at ignition. I once had a very stable Nike X go sideways. Wtf? We noted the shape of the plume wasn't symmetrical. This was a Quest D20W a long time ago.
 
Yes, the Quest D20s are purposely built for the nozzle to erode for safety reasons, which doesn't always go as planned. I have launched them before and they tend to go at a slight angle because of this.
 
I have already looked for that, and it was unstable. The motor did what it was supposed to.
 
Possibly the printed plastic didn't hold the nose weight? When I did v1 of the mini-magg, I cleaned the interior of the nose cone with soap, water, and then high grade alcohol. Did the wooden dowel through the nose (HATE doing that, it adds lots of finishing work) and then Aeropoxy and BB's. This held even though its last flight was ugly - it's where I figured out (after 3 rockets) that my Jolly Logic truly didn't work. Sigh.

It could be the printed plastic wasn't compatible with the glue or something like that.

On the swing test, they are pretty unforgiving but may not simulate a high wind day. Usually a swing test is 100% to me.

Sorry - it looked absolutely perfect. I did the BT80 version and never got around to flying it.

Cheers / Robert
 
I actually just used clay weight for the nose, which stuck OK. It was all still there in the top of the nose when I recovered the remains of the rocket.
 
A few times this morning the rain stopped, giving me just enough time for painting the Pershing. I put the decals on thin afternoon!
View attachment 631052

What do you think!
That's the BT-101 version, correct? But it appears it used those very thin vinyl decals? I am building the smaller one with similar "decals." How did they work for you? They are nice and thin but definitely different than water slide and I am a little hesitant about applying them. The rectangular stripe ones don't look bad but the black nose cone going around at a little disconcerting. Yours were even larger so even more tricky. May I ask, you did it as a wrap and did not cut the black strips out by individually I presume? Did you have any trouble with that nose cone black striped one? Also, when you finished up with the decals did you coat them and the entire rocket with a clear coat, probably a matte clear coat? That's what I'm planning and wonder if there is any problem coating them with clear? Thanks in advance if you get this.
 
Especially for large rockets, vinyl decals like the ones that come with both Pershing kits ( I have the larger version) are a lot better than waterslide. Both matte and gloss paint works, just has to be a generally smooth surface. A lot easier to apply than water slide. Go for it! The wrap was not hard. Peel off the backing, place it on the rocket, smooth it out, and peel of the other backing.
 
With mildly soapy water per instructions, the vinyl is certainly easier on larger models. Bumps need to be removed.
If you aren't painting the orange stripes, then the vinyl ones are brighter too.
I did a Mega Red Max with water transfer decals and it was a $%*!@ lol.
Water transfers aren't thick and stretchy like they were in a 70's Revell or Monogram (or Estes) kit.
Cheers / Robert
 
With mildly soapy water per instructions, the vinyl is certainly easier on larger models. Bumps need to be removed.
If you aren't painting the orange stripes, then the vinyl ones are brighter too.
I did a Mega Red Max with water transfer decals and it was a $%*!@ lol.
Water transfers aren't thick and stretchy like they were in a 70's Revell or Monogram (or Estes) kit.
Cheers / Robert
Thanks, I just put on the longest of the orange stripes and they look good. I built a Maxi-Brute Estes in the mid-'70s and recall the orange stripes were decals and I don't recall having much difficulty but, as you say, maybe better decals than is typical these days. Another question if I may. Is it OK to spray paint a matte coat over everything after? I tested a small piece with my Krylon acrylic matte clear and it looked OK, no reaction with the paint. It won't exactly seal the vinyl decals like water slide but will help a bit as well as toning down the gloss. Thanks again. Oh, here's my Pershing flying in 1977 off the KSC crawlerway at a contest we had there. The nose cone pattern was masked and painted but I really remember nothing about building it way back then. On another flight in Orlando the nose cone chute reefed and it streamlined in to our club president's old station wagon windshield and broke it! Just like a real missile.
 

Attachments

  • image001.jpg
    image001.jpg
    197.4 KB · Views: 0
Especially for large rockets, vinyl decals like the ones that come with both Pershing kits ( I have the larger version) are a lot better than waterslide. Both matte and gloss paint works, just has to be a generally smooth surface. A lot easier to apply than water slide. Go for it! The wrap was not hard. Peel off the backing, place it on the rocket, smooth it out, and peel of the other backing.
Thanks, do you mean matte or gloss before application or to finish after they are applied? I always try to have a gloss coat to apply decals on and then finish my rockets and plastic models, usually, with a matte clear. Is it safe to put a matte clear on after they are all applied? I tested a small excess piece with my Krylon acrylic matte and it didn't react. Here's my Max-Brute Pershing in 1977 flying off the KSC visitor's center at a contest we had there.
 

Attachments

  • AECM 2 23.jpg
    AECM 2 23.jpg
    179.7 KB · Views: 0
Back
Top