LPR glues

[BBowmaster]

Few different situations, looking for recommendations. Will list current glue for the situations.

• Wood on Paper tube - wood glue, various brands (good)

• Wood on vacuform plastic - CA, wood glue (not good)

• Plastic on paper tube - CA (not good)

• Fillets on wood and paper - wood glue (ok, messy)

• Fillets on wood/plastic joins - wood glue (horrible)

• Plastic on plastic nose cones - Testors plastic cement (doesn’t always work on the new nose cones, maybe not styrene?)

 

[Fritzk]

From the model shipbuilding side of my hobbies, I've found that CA for paper tube-to-plastic can be good, however you must understand the secret:

First apply thin layer of CA to the paper tube and allow to absorb. if it absorbs completely than repeat with a second coat. Then Sand the CA hardened surface before bonding with any thing else. The key with CA is filling in any porous surface before trying to bond with any other non porous surface. This method also applies to bonding wood to anything non porous with CA.

Something else to keep in mind, are the physical characteristics of CA. Like a Carbon fiber of the adhesive world, its strong stuff but is very brittle. CA doesn't like bending or high shear loads. In situations where these are encountered, its better to go with epoxy on a prepped surface.

HTH

 

[Nytrunner]

Few different situations, looking for recommendations. Will list current glue for the situations.

• Wood on Paper tube - wood glue, various brands (good) Wood fiber on processed wood, exactly what it was made for!

• Wood on vacuform plastic - CA, wood glue (not good) Try a plastic cement or 5-min epoxy. See Fritzk's comment above

• Plastic on paper tube - CA (not good) See Fritzk's comment above, also try plastic cement

• Fillets on wood and paper - wood glue (ok, messy) Try Titebond Quick&Thick. It stays where you put it much better than the normal yellow wood glue. Thin layer, dry 10 mins, thin layer, build up as needed

• Fillets on wood/plastic joins - wood glue (horrible) 5 - 30 min epoxy is my choice for low power

• Plastic on plastic nose cones - Testors plastic cement (doesn’t always work on the new nose cones, maybe not styrene?) Plastic cement or Superglue, or epoxy

 

[hakudoh]

When lightness is required, I use Cemedine C (a Japanese adhesive with a component similar to DUCO).

 

[Zeus-cat]

Epoxy works well on dissimilar materials.

 

[hakudoh]

UV resin is also convenient.
It hardens as soon as it is exposed to ultraviolet light, and it can also fill gaps.