LOKI M3464 Motor assembly

[Frewi80]

Well actually I'm a CTI motor user, but it seems that High power motors are not available from CTI any time soon to get ready for airfest. So A good friend of mine borrowed his 76/8000 casing and I will be using a Loki M3464 motor. From other video's I have learned that you stack the grains in order as they are marked and tape them together, apply some gorilla glue and load them in the liner from the nozzle side, sliding them in all the way and push the nozzle inside, And then push the whole stack down as far it goes and install the bulkhead. Now I hope this is the way you do it for this motor also. CTI has a different system, where you apply 0 -rings between the grains. But for LOKI you just stack the grains and tape them togeteher with scotts tape or so. Just want to know that I'm doing the right thing here, If there is a video out there of assembling a LOKI M3464 I would love to see it. Reactions and suggestions are greatly welcome.

 

[manixFan]

The reload should have come with detailed instructions. If you don’t have them, I’d contact Scott and ask him for a set. I would not take any chances with that reload and hardware. I’ve built a number of his 38mm 1200 loads (mostly the K-627) and your description is pretty close, but for the 38mm motors you use epoxy to glue the grains in the liner. And you need to use a piece of Saran Wrap over the nozzle to make sure it doesn’t get stuck to the rest of the stack.

Call or email Scott. You won’t regret it.


Tony.

 

[Frewi80]

The reload should have come with detailed instructions. If you don’t have them, I’d contact Scott and ask him for a set. I would not take any chances with that reload and hardware. I’ve built a number of his 38mm 1200 loads (mostly the K-627) and your description is pretty close, but for the 38mm motors you use epoxy to glue the grains in the liner. And you need to use a piece of Saran Wrap over the nozzle to make sure it doesn’t get stuck to the rest of the stack.

Call or email Scott. You won’t regret it.


Tony.

I will Sir, And yes I read the instructions online, but maybe there is a person out there who assembled it and took a video, The instructions are really clear and straight forward also. Thank you Sir.

 

[Wrightme43]

Go to Loki Research youtube channel, click on all videos. He has a video of epoxy and the liner, nozzle, assembly

 

[rfjustin]

I will Sir, And yes I read the instructions online, but maybe there is a person out there who assembled it and took a video, The instructions are really clear and straight forward also. Thank you Sir.

 

[manixFan]

I will Sir, And yes I read the instructions online, but maybe there is a person out there who assembled it and took a video, The instructions are really clear and straight forward also. Thank you Sir.

Sounds like you are on the right track then if you have the instructions for that reload. For sure practice assembly without any glue to make sure everything goes to smoothly. And have several sets of gloves ready – I like to lay them out so I can easily change them out when needed. I prefer to use alcohol to clean up epoxy instead of acetone.

And needless to say, use slow cure epoxy!

Good luck and good flight.


Tony

 

[mrwalsh85]

 

[mrwalsh85]

I enlisted the help of my dad to make sure it went smoothly. I did a L1040R and a M3464 in the same go.

Have fun... This is an amazing motor. I'm glad to have one more reload. I just need to decide what It'll go in...

 

[Frewi80]

View attachment 644946View attachment 644947

 

[Frewi80]

Thanks for the pictures !!! Now that's what I wanted to see !!!!!!!

 

[mrwalsh85]

The video that @rfjustin cited will explain everything. There are also instructions on the website. Use them. I enjoyed the process, and honestly, probably need to use the same method for AT motors since my grains keep sliding down before I have a chance to insert the next grain, so the O-rings sometimes get out of position.

 

[Loki Research]

BTW, if it's not obvious in the video, I took a LOT of time to do the grain bonding. Once you learn this process, the epoxy part goes about 4x as fast. And DO use laminating epoxy on 76mm and down because it is very thin and not viscous like gorilla glue. The fit between grains and liner are pretty snug so you need something very thin. On the 98's I have enough room to use RTV instead.

 

[Frewi80]

BTW, if it's not obvious in the video, I took a LOT of time to do the grain bonding. Once you learn this process, the epoxy part goes about 4x as fast. And DO use laminating epoxy on 76mm and down because it is very thin and not viscous like gorilla glue. The fit between grains and liner are pretty snug so you need something very thin. On the 98's I have enough room to use RTV instead.

Scott, can I use gorilla glue ????? OK I see... will get that Laminating epoxy...

 

[StreuB1]

The video that @rfjustin cited will explain everything. There are also instructions on the website. Use them. I enjoyed the process, and honestly, probably need to use the same method for AT motors since my grains keep sliding down before I have a chance to insert the next grain, so the O-rings sometimes get out of position.

I grain bond all my AT motors in the Loki Way for the lack of a better term. I find it a more foolproof method that prevents rolling up an o-ring when sliding everything in place, as well as it prevents excess glue from getting on the grain faces and having an inhibiting effect that could cause a progressive burn when its not expected. This bonding method also proves to be far less messy, for me at least. YMMV.

One thing to point out. You absolutely must test fit your grains into the liner in advance and peel the kraft paper casting tube glassine layer (if applicable) if they fit tight. Adding packing/scotch tape to the grain intersection OD will add some thickness, and coupled with your glue of choice, it can make for a grain stack that can lodge in place upon bonded assembly. NOT something you want to be addressing when your grain stack is halfway inserted into the liner. Pre-prep is critical, and take your time.

 

[Theory]

I grain bond all my AT motors in the Loki Way for the lack of a better term. I find it a more foolproof method that prevents rolling up an o-ring when sliding everything in place, as well as it prevents excess glue from getting on the grain faces and having an inhibiting effect that could cause a progressive burn when its not expected. This bonding method also proves to be far less messy, for me at least. YMMV.

One thing to point out. You absolutely must test fit your grains into the liner in advance and peel the kraft paper casting tube glassine layer (if applicable) if they fit tight. Adding packing/scotch tape to the grain intersection OD will add some thickness, and coupled with your glue of choice, it can make for a grain stack that can lodge in place upon bonded assembly. NOT something you want to be addressing when your grain stack is halfway inserted into the liner. Pre-prep is critical, and take your time.

quoted as, well, its dead on! 100% want to emphasize test fitting everything, and more, test fit everything in the motor and ensure it all assembles correctly. A fully glued propellant/liner stack that is the wrong size (too long or short) is not a fun surprise.

 

[Finicky]

I grain bond all my AT motors in the Loki Way

+1

 

[Finicky]

You absolutely must test fit your grains into the liner in advance

Again, +1