LOC Precision 4" Iris

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Charlie1964

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Hello everyone. My first post here. I live in NW Indiana just southeast of Chicago. I am a BAR! Looking at building a LOC Precision 4" Iris for my level 1 cert. I have been looking through the HP posts, and I've noticed that a lot of you are recommending the Madcow DX3. The reason I'm considering the Iris is because it would require a longer build time, and I could use DD for my level 2 cert later on. Go big or go home as they say. Thoughts and comments are welcome. Also looking for a club near by that isn't a 3 hour drive.
 

djs

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LOC Iris would be just fine for your L1 (and possibly L2).

Clubs in your area:
Michiana rocketry
Tripoli Wisconsin (flies at Bong rec area)
WOOSH rocketry (also flies at Bong)

a little further- QCRS (flies at Princeton, IL)

Note- for HPR rockets, you'll have to drive a bit farther...
 

richP

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Look at my signature :)

A 4" version would be just fine.
 

Charlie1964

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I went and ordered the kit. This kit is the Yank 4" Iris. Can't wait to get started.
 

djs

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Whereabouts are you in NW Indiana?
 

Jozef

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I just checked out on the LOC web site. That 4 inch Yank Iris is a sweet package for $110. You made an excellent choice. LOC is coming up with a lot of new stuff as of late and their quality is top notch. Hope to see you do a build thread. Would like to see it fly at Midwest Power.
 

jd2cylman

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I built the Yank IRIS back in the day when they made it out of "flexible phenolic". I assume the current one is craft paper? Peel the glassine (white shiny layer) or sand the crap out of it so the glue can penetrate better.
Looks like my pics are gone from the gallery. I didn't glass it and has flown on motors up to the K805G.
 

Charlie1964

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I built the Yank IRIS back in the day when they made it out of "flexible phenolic". I assume the current one is craft paper? Peel the glassine (white shiny layer) or sand the crap out of it so the glue can penetrate better.
Looks like my pics are gone from the gallery. I didn't glass it and has flown on motors up to the K805G.
Yes, mine has the cardboard tube. Trying to decide what motor retainer to use.
 

DAllen

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Valparaiso
You are about 30 minutes or so from the MIchiana Rocketry field. Just head up EB I-94 just over the Michigan line to exit 4 and get off at EB US-12 and drive to the other side of Three Oaks. I have a link to the club in my sig. See you this fall!
 

Charlie1964

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You are about 30 minutes or so from the MIchiana Rocketry field. Just head up EB I-94 just over the Michigan line to exit 4 and get off at EB US-12 and drive to the other side of Three Oaks. I have a link to the club in my sig. See you this fall!
I definitely plan on heading up that way. Thank you!
 

jd2cylman

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Aero Pack 38 to 54 adapters work really well. Well worth the extra money over a cardboard adapter. Plus they nest. You could nest a 54mmt all the way down to a 24mm if the 24 mm motor had enough poop, or the rocket was light enough. :D
 

Charlie1964

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Aero Pack 38 to 54 adapters work really well. Well worth the extra money over a cardboard adapter. Plus they nest. You could nest a 54mmt all the way down to a 24mm if the 24 mm motor had enough poop, or the rocket was light enough. :D
That's exactly what I need. Looked them up, I'll get one ordered today. Thank you very much!
 

LOC

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The Iris uses the same ring/adapter combo as the goblin. So it has z-clip retention standard, and the adapters work in all kits with the loc-n-ring system.
 

comodelbuilder

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Here is my Mega Magg with the combo Dave is talking about. This is how the motor retention is used on the 4” IRIS. No need to buy anything unless you want to simply change how it looks. This example used the retention on a Aerotech 75mm casing. The other side shows how the “T-Nut” peeks through the hole and where the screw mounts the “Z-Clip”. I also have a 4” IRIS I need to complete. Of course to note the 4” IRIS is 54mm with the ability to adapt down to 38mm and 29mm. Let me know if you need any questions answered on any LOC builds. #theLOCmafia
 

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Charlie1964

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Making slow progress on the Iris. Wondering what I should do to the fin leading edges. Should I just leave them square, round them or have them beveled?
 

richP

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I rounded mine.
Beveling is nice, but takes a lot of work to get even ones. Squared is fine, but wanted to make it look a little more refined.

Don't know exactly why, but they whistle too. Definitely not done on purpose, but fun nonetheless.
 

DAllen

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Thanks. I will most likely round them, but wanted to see what others did.
Like a lot of things in rocketry this is one of those there's no right answer. It's just a matter of personal preference. :D Don't forget to post some photos here.
 

comodelbuilder

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Charlie1964

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That's a good looking Iris. Is that a LOC kit? I was hoping to have mine ready for next month, but a sudden career change has changed everything. I will find a launch next spring or summer to try for my L1.
 

comodelbuilder

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That's a good looking Iris. Is that a LOC kit? I was hoping to have mine ready for next month, but a sudden career change has changed everything. I will find a launch next spring or summer to try for my L1.
Yes it’s an unreleased LOC Precision Kit. Made with their newer flexible phenolic tubing. I stand on the fins for fun.
 

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comodelbuilder

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I’m excited to see your progress man! I love me the IRIS! Frank Burke built one many years ago and when I saw the photo I had to have one!
 

Charlie1964

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I made a mistake on the middle CR. I read the instructions that said to put it at 5.5 inches from the end of the MT, (it didn't say glue it, that's where I made the mistake). After the epoxy had set, I went to try the fins and the RCR, that's when I realized my mistake.
So I notched out the fins for the MCR. Everything seems to fit like it should.
The fins and the RCR have not been glued in yet. Still need to do something with the leading edges.
 

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Charlie1964

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I used a piece of maple for the rear rail guide with the nut recessed and epoxied into the back of it. The forward rail guide is screwed into the FCR. I'm not sure how far apart these rail guides need to be, but for a 80" rocket they look too close together. Right now they are 15-1/2" apart.
 
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