LOC 2" Nuke Pro Maxx Question

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I just built one. I didn't follow the instructions. I wrapped a kevlar cord around the motor tube and ran it through the forward centering ring in a Y formation. made a loop just below the end of the body tube where I attach the tubular nylon shock cord.

I don't trust attaching the shock cord to the side wall of the body tube.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/build-thread-loc-nuke-pro-maxx.152447/
 
Use whatever method you're most comfortable/familiar with. It's actually rare for anyone to follow instructions in these days of multilingual pictograms..
 
If you haven't already built it, build shock cord attachment into either the centering rings or motor mount. If you have, the method they use in the instructions is to epoxy a loop of cord into the inside of the body tube low enough that it doesn't interfere with the nose cone. You then tie the shock cord to that loop. It works, just not that well.
 
Both of my Nukes have a "Y" harness as described in this thread:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threa...ass-kit-build-starts.45666/page-5#post-444087

017.jpg
 
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To answer the original question, check out the following photo. Cover the two knots in epoxy; enough to cover the knots completely.

Shock-Cord-Mounts-SCM.jpg


I'll add my 2 cents...tales from the road.

Been flying Lil Nukes since the early 90's...a classic mid power flyer! Have flown them on as little as D12's, and as much as 54-4 grain K motors (min dia). I've had a couple; all but one used the stock shock cord attachment method. Never had one fail. Have never seen that mount fail on a standard size (2.27" dia) Nuke. It may seem a bit primitive, but it's time tested...it works!

Moral of the story, feel free to "upgrade" if you so desire. But I'm here to tell you that the stock mounting method works just fine. :)
 
Depending on how long ago it was packaged, you may have a notched forward ring so you can do either method.We did not advertise as there is old stock out there so we just started including a notched forward ring in production runs so people could choose. If you do NOT have a notched ring, shoot us an e-mail and we'll gladly send you one. I personally prefer wrapping around the motor tube and pass through the forward ring. But the glue in the side is a tried and true method as well. If I knew how to attach a photo I would!!!
 
Fact, I have a Minnie Magg that I built in 1994. It has the “old” side tube mount and it still works. True it was replaced once, 2001ish, but it was replaced with the exact same mount and adhered with 15min epoxy.

Flew it twice two weeks ago (G138 & H130) and it performed as designed. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it
 
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