Google it, my photo hosting site
Google it up, my photo site is not working
Let's Talk About Painting the LOC 4' Goblin
- Thread starter Stargeezer
- Start date
Help Support The Rocketry Forum:
It depends. If you don't care that much about the spirals, no need to fill them. If you do care somewhat, then repeated heavy coats of Filler Primer should cover a lot of it, but it's going to be costly (a whole can alone?), time consuming and may create a mess with drips if you're not careful.
I see filling spirals as an investment. If I care a lot about a great paint job, you'll want to fill and sand them smooth. If you don't care that much and honestly, most people will see it from a distance at a launch, don't worry about them.
I've skipped filling spirals on some occasions (feeling lazier or really rushed) and it bugs me a bit, bit didn't seem to bother anyone else lol.
Rushed, no spiral fill:
Stargeezer
Jess
Is it this stuff here?
Attachments
YES
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2022
- Messages
- 3,269
- Reaction score
- 2,968
For the fins I would round over the leading edges. That is what I did on my Goblin and do on most of my sport rockets. Round leading edges take paint better than sharp, square edges and are a bit more aerodynamic.
For paint I have been using Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer 2in1 Filler and Sandable. You can get this at automotive stores and in the automotive department at Walmart.
I use Krylon Acryli-Quik acrylic lacquer paint now. They are so much better than any enamel I have ever used. Coverage is good, dry time is consistent and fast, and they spray well. The only set back is it is hard to get (at least for me). Amazon is a source but kinda pricey. Grainger is better if you have one near you. There are other places online as well.
This is my cloned (using mostly Der Big Red Max parts) Goblin. Sorry if the yellow is offensiveIt's Acryli-Quik colors over the gray Rust-Oleum automotive primer. The yellow coverage was great!
View attachment 627654
I would never build a rocket without at least rounding the leading and trailing edges. Leaving them square just looks like heck to me, like someone couldn't even be bothered. If you're not going to round them, maybe don't even bother painting at all because it's a disposable rocket. Tips should be left square, as it's generally aerodynamically more efficient.
Another Acryli-Quik user here. I get mine from zoro.com. Set up/sign into an account, put it in your cart and wait for them to email you discount coupons.
I have found a significant difference in brightness of lighter (red and orange) top coats when going over white vs. grey primer. Yellow will be even more so. I use the AQ white primer under most any color coat.
I've used Rusto filler-primer, but don't like how it sands. @hcmbanjo has repeatedly posted his finishing techniques and uses Dupli-Color FP101 filler-primer, available online and at auto parts stores. Says it sands much better. My next build will use it.
Asterisk to all that is, I like the Rusto Golden Sunset color on the Goblin, and will be using it on the ones I build (different sizes). I've sworn off Rusto, except for that color. It's an enamel, so the AQ black likely won't play nice with it. I have a can of Ace brand gloss black to go with the GS. I should try the Ace white primer, too, since it's considerably cheaper and easier to get than the AQ white primer.
shanejohnson2002
BT60 Enthusiast
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2019
- Messages
- 193
- Reaction score
- 155
I'm a big fan of Dupli-Color, but I have seen/heard good things about Kustom Canz and plan on using those for my Crossfire upscale.
Can confirm Spaz Stix chrome is great stuff. I used it over their black backer on my Ramjet upscale. over a year later and it's still very, very shiny for paint. It's the closest paint I've found to *actual* chrome. The only complaint is it's VERY sensitive to fingerprints. A quick rub down with some paper towels brings back the shine though. I also didn't clearcoat it, because clearcoat over chrome usually turns dull gray. Plus it allows me to touch it up as needed in the future.
That said, I really want to test Molotow Chrome. I tried one of their pens on a smaller project and holy cow. The "ink" paint self-levels and ends up looking like a mirror.
Can confirm Spaz Stix chrome is great stuff. I used it over their black backer on my Ramjet upscale. over a year later and it's still very, very shiny for paint. It's the closest paint I've found to *actual* chrome. The only complaint is it's VERY sensitive to fingerprints. A quick rub down with some paper towels brings back the shine though. I also didn't clearcoat it, because clearcoat over chrome usually turns dull gray. Plus it allows me to touch it up as needed in the future.
That said, I really want to test Molotow Chrome. I tried one of their pens on a smaller project and holy cow. The "ink" paint self-levels and ends up looking like a mirror.
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2018
- Messages
- 1,296
- Reaction score
- 941
Splash some paint on it and go fly it
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2011
- Messages
- 6,406
- Reaction score
- 2,699
IMHO, spirals won’t be seen at the high power pad distance. Not worth the effort for me. But I’m only interested in flying. Color is so I can see it in the sky. I’ve a couple of white rockets that were scale colors that I regret. White is hard for me to see above 4000’.
Something no one else has mentioned is for the nosecone, go over the entire surface with a propane torch. That changes the outer layer chemistry and will hold paint without the adhesion promoters. Have fun!
Something no one else has mentioned is for the nosecone, go over the entire surface with a propane torch. That changes the outer layer chemistry and will hold paint without the adhesion promoters. Have fun!
look at @Wrightme43 paint jobs, that's what he uses.
Stargeezer
Jess
Ok, I was planning on turning mine into a Nuka Cola "Quantum" pop bottle from the videogame series "Fallout" lol. I wanted to use glow in the dark blue spray paint (yet to be decided upon) as the pop in the series also glows because it's of course irradiated. But I realize now it may be very hard to see.......maybe I'll go with the Nuka original (red).
Attachments
Last edited:
Stargeezer
Jess
Should I be installing the rail buttons BEFORE or AFTER painting?
And with this Rustoleum Filler Primer should I be using a coat of adhesion support on the nosecone first? Or will coating the nosecone with this stuff work just fine without it?
And with this Rustoleum Filler Primer should I be using a coat of adhesion support on the nosecone first? Or will coating the nosecone with this stuff work just fine without it?
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2018
- Messages
- 1,296
- Reaction score
- 941
Should mount them before as part of the build. You can always unscrew them to paint and/or just put tape around them.
Dude thats a awesome idea!!!
I have been trying to figure out a Fallout rocket, thats perfect!
Here is a blue glow paint.
https://usa.specialistpaints.com/co...s/products/alien-glow-canz?variant=1171967843
I used adhesion promotor twice. It gets in the masking tape and does funky stuff. I am going to tey the propane torch mentioned above next time. I have seen it before and it is supposed to work.
Stargeezer
Jess
Ok....do the screws that go inside the rail buttons need to be able to move? Or do I epoxy the crap out of them as I screw them in there?
I screwed one into the center of the FWD ring and one into the center of the AFT ring.....both cracked so now I need to order new ones. The AFT ring button is trying to come out the bottom as well so I applied a little more epoxy in that area. Ugh.
I screwed one into the center of the FWD ring and one into the center of the AFT ring.....both cracked so now I need to order new ones. The AFT ring button is trying to come out the bottom as well so I applied a little more epoxy in that area. Ugh.
Stargeezer
Jess
Holy heck thank you! I ordered this just now. I've been looking for blue glow paint for days now. Rusoleum used to make a blue one but of course it's discontinued and they only had the green.
Personally I'd love to attend a night launch with this thing someday.
Stargeezer
Jess
Yeah I'm just having a hard time with them. I missed the wood on the AFT button, and when I finally got it it was kind of at an awkward angle. I'm a little annoyed. My buttons cracked but I didn't realize the buttons themselves should be loose and able to spin. Have ordered new ones and will try again.
Ah, I thought you meant the holes cracked! That's unusual because rail buttons are usually pretty tough (nylon, etc). Sorry! Luckily buttons are pretty cheap.
For Low and Mid Power I usually add buttons at the end (a bit of epoxy to the hole if in the CR otherwise a glob of epoxy). Good luck!
what brand was it?
mcderek
Free Flight Rocketeer
Your right, on some rockets I can't be bothered, and I've even flown them naked! It's cool that there are lots of ways to have fun in rocketry!
Rustoleum clear adhesion promoter.
AhahahahhahahahahahahaLow grade dog food
You are right you know.
I've just had mostly bad experiences with Rustoleum through the years, even with their new "look" cans. But anything you can buy at a Hardware store is usually low grade when it comes to paint.
Actually tried it for the first time today despite having it for maybe a year. It was nothing like what I thought (expected it to go on like paint) and it was very thin and watery, almost like alcohol.
I applied it before my Filler Primer, but wasn't sure if I should've instead just applied on the final color coat.
Primed Gray Gobby:
None of my other rockets had used adhesion promoter and the only one that gave me trouble was an Aerotech G-Force cone because it was so soft that the paint would crack and start to flake.
Adhesion promoter softens up the plastic to let it get sticky to allow paint or primer to stick. It's not needed on cardboard
-before primer/paint only. It will eat most paint finishes.
Last edited:
Yup, it was only applied to the plastic nose cone (I didn't take a picture of that) and the the entire rocket was primed.
Bob Yanecek
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2023
- Messages
- 34
- Reaction score
- 65
Inerlux Perfection is great.
You can even brush it on and it 'flows' out nicely.
As with spraying, getting it on too thick will result in sags, runs, and in my case drips.
You can even brush it on and it 'flows' out nicely.
As with spraying, getting it on too thick will result in sags, runs, and in my case drips.
You can easily remove those darn runs, drips and sags with making tape. Just take a small piece of tape and lightly roll it over the spot. It will lift right out. Many times paint will still flow in but you may need to touch up that spot. Airbrush works great for small area like that.
