Nice, I am always looking to do things either better or simple.
Thinking about how to describe it...since the rocket is aligned to the V in the wood, when you put the fin through the slot and clamp the fin to the wood, if there isn't a lot of slop in the fin slot, it will rotate the airframe and square the fin...hope that helps...Nice, I am always looking to do things either better or simple.
I was scanning the Estes site today looking to build some rockets with a colleague's kids. I found something you're gonna need...
Yes indeed, I was barely a teen. I never took the time to put the iron-on on a shirt...When I joined as a pre-teen ; all we got was an Iron-On to put on a tee-shirt...
Edit: then as we earned more "Stripes" they sent us more Iron On to put more stripes in the Exhaust..
The way to earn more Stripes was to buy more higher skill level kits from the Club....
Yes indeed, I was barely a teen. I never took the time to put the iron-on on a shirt...
I have my original, a bt-60 and a 2.6" upscale. Also an original club package still unopened. Love this rocket. Forgot the Baby Bertha based Goonie.Oh man! I’ve been wanting to build one of these for a while. Loved mine when I was a kid. Looking to do some kind of upscale. Really enjoying your build. Keep up the good work.
Nice build!Found a TAP, at the local club holiday party, to supervise my L2 at LDRS. Spent about an hour with him tonight and learned a lot. Thanks Chris Pearson!!! (None other than one of the original North Coast Rocketry founders and LDRS-1 Host/Sponsor).
Key learnings:
Luckily, no change to design, build, motor, recovery...or anything!!! (Thank god, I'm in final paint mode!). Should have reached out for support earlier!
- If you have G10/12 fins, bevel the leading edges and seal with thin CA. This will lessen any impact of high speeds (> Mach) delaminating G10/12.
- With 4" and larger birds, just use 1515 buttons/guides...many clubs have <6' 1010 rails.
- With G10, .125 thickness, don't worry about flutter/shred until you hit Mach boundary
- Sanding FG before bonding (I knew this and used 120 before any bonding/priming)
- No pins, with nose/motor deploy doesn't matter, as long as shake test show sufficient. Also, 1pin vs. 2pins doesn't matter with typical shoulder lengths.
- Blow it out or blow it up (within reason)
Found a TAP, at the local club holiday party, to supervise my L2 at LDRS. Spent about an hour with him tonight and learned a lot. Thanks Chris Pearson!!! (None other than one of the original North Coast Rocketry founders and LDRS-1 Host/Sponsor).
Key learnings:
Luckily, no change to design, build, motor, recovery...or anything!!! (Thank god, I'm in final paint mode!). Should have reached out for support earlier!
- If you have G10/12 fins, bevel the leading edges and seal with thin CA. This will lessen any impact of high speeds (> Mach) delaminating G10/12.
- With 4" and larger birds, just use 1515 buttons/guides...many clubs have <6' 1010 rails.
- With G10, .125 thickness, don't worry about flutter/shred until you hit Mach boundary
- Sanding FG before bonding (I knew this and used 120 before any bonding/priming)
- No pins, with nose/motor deploy doesn't matter, as long as shake test show sufficient. Also, 1pin vs. 2pins doesn't matter with typical shoulder lengths.
- Blow it out or blow it up (within reason)
Why don't you talk to them about doing the basecoat with their auto paint? My SIL manages a body shop and I tell them what basic color I want and when they are painting that color, they can easily put a little extra paint in their cup so that it really doesn't take more than a couple of extra minutes , same for the clear coat. That way you end up with an auto quality paint job.In either case, I found a local body shop to do the clear coat...pick up the NC on Monday.
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