# Krylon Destroyed My Semroc Saki

### Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

#### grog

##### Well-Known Member
I finally finished building a Semroc Saki this weekend. It was really looking good after I added the decals. I waited 24 hours before applying Krylon Clear Coat to protect the decals this evening. It had devastating results--portions of the paint just wrinkled. (See photos.) I never had this happen before with Krylon. In fact, I clear coated an Estes Spaceship One yesterday and had no problems. What happened this time? (Guess I can tell people that the Saki exceeded Mach and the paint began peel.)

#### rokitflite

##### Well-Known Member
Was it a case of new Krylon vs old Krylon in a battle for supremacy on the surface of your rocket?

#### grog

##### Well-Known Member
Was it a case of new Krylon vs old Krylon in a battle for supremacy on the surface of your rocket?
The paint was new Krylon and the clear coat old Krylon. The same with my Spaceship One which did not have this problem.

#### El Cheapo

##### Well-Known Member
I've had the same problem w/Rustoleum 2x Clear. I'm guessing you sprayed it on too thick and the chemical reaction or the curing process caused the paint to craze. Very very frustrating.

#### foose4string

##### Well-Known Member
You may have just gotten lucky with the SS1. Was the SS1 allowed more drying time than the Saki before the clear coat was applied or the same amount? Either way, the base coat wasn't fully cured and reacted.

#### NjCo

##### Well-Known Member
I had something similar just yesterday with an Estes D Region Tomhawk. I was adding a 2nd coat of white. Same color, same brand, same damn can! And it sure was completely cured since it sat around for weeks and weeks before I was able to get to it. In that time I painted several other rockets with much less drying time using the same brand of paint and in one case the same can of white. I typically dry between top coats about 48 hours. The can recommends 24 hours. I have no idea what it is but it's not the paint, not the drying time or anything else I've been able to put my finger on. Does static affect paint? I noticed that the region I was painting was the plastic fin can and a lot of static had built up after fine sanding the previous coat of white. But that was weeks ago. And I've never had a problem with plastic nose cones. Luckily mine covers a fairly small region so sanding it off shouldn't be a big problem. But the question becomes what do I do now? Just respray over what I sand or should I go back to primer? :confused2:

#### jpaw33

##### Well-Known Member
It did the same to my fake-wulf kit, first color went down ok,2 days later second color ok,2 days later the last color wrinkled the whole paint job!!!!I will never use new Krylon again,I should of just used my airbrush with Tamiya paints,after heavy sanding it took 2 hrs for a classic german aircraft camo paint job.A lesson learned the hard way!!! J.P.:y:

#### Rocketcrab

##### Well-Known Member
Yep, same here. Used the NEW Krylon primer on mu upscale Orion, let it sit for 8 days - one day longer than prescribed. Sprayed it yesterday with the NEW Krylon gloss white, and it crazed. Lovely. :jaw:

#### MaxQ

##### Tripoli 2747
I've had some problems with New Krylon Gloss White crazing on my Gemini Titan build recently...I noticed that the deeper ridges along details on the airframe where the paint build up was heavier crazed immediately.
Guess it hadn't fully cured underneath.

I waited for it to dry, then sanded it out, and reapplied paint.

I also had banded crazing of New Krylon satin black reapplied over the capsule. Not all of it ..just parts of it.

Interestingly...I got away with putting Old Krylon ultra flat black over New Krylon Gloss white...with no probelm.......
?

Last edited:

#### stantonjtroy

##### Well-Known Member
I've been useing Plasticote Filler/Primer 3hr cure. Then topcoat w/ Krylon Fusion. I apply 2-3 light coats with a 15min flash time between coats. No crazing though it will matt out if there is too much humidity. Otherwise I've had great results.

#### accooper

##### Well-Known Member
I have seen this happen only when the relative humidity goes over 70%. Here in South Texas I have learned never to paint in the mornings since that is when the humidity is the highest. It seems to be worse with clear coat.

Andrew From Texas

#### rosko_racer

##### Well-Known Member
So, what is the new Kyrlon formula: Acrylic, Laquer, Enamel...? This problem should not happen if you use new over new formula. I am watching this thread because I am running low on my OLD formula primers, whites, and blacks. I do not use the clear on rockets, I use Future... harder to apply but it looks really nice!

#### rokitflite

##### Well-Known Member
So, what is the new Kyrlon formula: Acrylic, Laquer, Enamel...? This problem should not happen if you use new over new formula. I am watching this thread because I am running low on my OLD formula primers, whites, and blacks. I do not use the clear on rockets, I use Future... harder to apply but it looks really nice!
Aaaaaand as I've told you we can get you as much of the old stuff as you want Raul!

Stantonjtroy: Where are YOU getting the Plastikote primer from & how much \$?

#### NjCo

##### Well-Known Member
I have seen this happen only when the relative humidity goes over 70%. Here in South Texas I have learned never to paint in the mornings since that is when the humidity is the highest. It seems to be worse with clear coat.

Andrew From Texas
Humidity really isn't a problem here in Colorado. The only time it gets above 50% is when its raining. So painting here is simple, just don't paint in the rain!

#### NjCo

##### Well-Known Member
So, what is the new Kyrlon formula: Acrylic, Laquer, Enamel...? This problem should not happen if you use new over new formula. I am watching this thread because I am running low on my OLD formula primers, whites, and blacks. I do not use the clear on rockets, I use Future... harder to apply but it looks really nice!
I just tried this on one of my old rockets and it came out great. And it's really not that difficult. I used a soft 1" brush and just dabbed off the excess with a paper towel. You just have to watch out for bubbles but you can work with the surface for about 10 minutes before it starts to set up so it's an easy process. Compared to rattle cans it's dirt cheap and you never have to worry about crinkling. The shine is beautiful. Highly recommended.

#### luke strawwalker

##### Well-Known Member
So, what is the new Kyrlon formula: Acrylic, Laquer, Enamel...? This problem should not happen if you use new over new formula. I am watching this thread because I am running low on my OLD formula primers, whites, and blacks. I do not use the clear on rockets, I use Future... harder to apply but it looks really nice!
Alkyd Enamel... and a rather poor one at that... OL JR

#### dpower

##### Well-Known Member
The paint was new Krylon and the clear coat old Krylon. The same with my Spaceship One which did not have this problem.
Old Krylon clear coat was a lacquer - I'm not sure about new. If sprayed on *very* lightly, with multiple coats, it can work with enamels, but just a wee bit too much, and it wrinkles the underlying enamel.