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Interceptor/Int-E Build

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Micromeister

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:pop:Just Love My Intercetper-E, It's a Great Upscale of the orignial.
Can't wait to see what's to come here.:pop:

674-a_Interceptor-E sideview_05-12-10.jpg


009b3_Interceptor 3pic comparison(128dpi)_08-12-06.jpg
 

neil_w

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Hey Micro, that E is *sparkly*. What kind of paint is that?
 

RocketFeller

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:pop:Just Love My Intercetper-E, It's a Great Upscale of the orignial.
Can't wait to see what's to come here.:pop:
Nice Interceptors! You definitely have excellent painting/finishing skills.

M favorite is the Interceptor G, but I'm biased towards big rockets. The only downside is that there is no cockpit, that is why I added Chester under a tiny R/C canopy. :)
 

hqtalo

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I love the interceptor style. Got my first in 74 and still have it and still fly it! Built the E version but found that it flies better on composite F motors since our club has short rails. After my L2 cert went for the Interceptor J. Swapped the white scheme for a cammo to simulate what the AF would make it look like now.137-NEFAR-10-11-14-Jimmy-Yawn.jpgIMG_5845.jpg
 

Micromeister

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Hey Micro, that E is *sparkly*. What kind of paint is that?
The Interceptor-E was done with #7172 Rustoleum Silver Metallic fine.
I've done a number of rockets with this Silver Metallic because of it's larger then usual fine size. However the last couple cans I've purchased have not had the same large fine size. Still a great looking silver metallic but doesn't have quite the sparkle in the sunlight the eariler stuff had.
 

burkefj

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Here's my interceptor E, turned into RC rocket glider of course:) had to get rid of some heavy plastic bits, but flies really nicely...finally decided to kit it....
Vinyl from stickershock plus sharpie panel lines..11 oz rtf with Aerotech E-6 motor.

WP_20160706_23_16_52_Pro.jpgWP_20160706_23_17_05_Pro.jpg
 
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Forever_Metal

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:grin::drool: So what if I take a moment and smile... :grin::drool:

Finally have some room in my new garage to get my stuff out and situated; so OK, to business!

As you see here, got everything spread out so I can capture all dimensions in OR. Not trying to make it fly nice; trying to leave very little doubt if an enterprising builder wants to reproduce it.

Coming soon, Step 2: The start (and more drooling)

Stay Tuned!!!

:headbang::headbang:fm:headbang::headbang:

IMG_0184.jpg
 

Forever_Metal

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Now, what should I work on first tonight...

Should I play with some
View attachment 296825
extreme methanol madness... (I do like to roll the valves and set lifters) :headbang:

or maybe prime my patriot... (sorry no pic)

Or should I just get started... (as did my daughter on her rocket...)
View attachment 296826

Ok, I actually started
IMG_0190.JPG

Step 2: What you see here is me actually USING the kit instructions (with a few dev's later of course); here I'm laying out chalk lines for the fins and such. I'll then lay out the distances for each, then sand off the glassine to contact the pile directly for attachment of the fins.

I know it'll be boring, but I'll be using the kit instruction for most of this build, just as I did when I was 8 years north of birth. It's also an attempt to get my kids in the mindset of following directions and knowing when to deviate...


Off to it!

fm
 
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Forever_Metal

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IMG_0191.JPG

Step 3: Since I'll be using the motor mount as part of the anchor for the shock cord, want to provide a little extra strength to the mount. I'll be epoxying card stock on each side of the rings using West Sys 5min, then sandwiching and clamping to keep it thin and flat. I weighed the complete mount at 4g, will try to keep it as low as possible; shooting for adding only 1g total to it.

fm
 
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Forever_Metal

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Whats better than 1 interceptor?

Well, 2 of course! So the other kit was feeling lonely, got me to thinking... Why not both?

IMG_0192.JPGIMG_0193.JPGIMG_0195.JPG

Anyway got the rings doubled and assembled the motor mounts with aeropoxy. And I only gained a gram each too; so not so bad...

Once dry will install in body and start on the fins oh glorious fins

thanks

fm
 

Forever_Metal

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Just a short question...

Still need to figure finishing options as far as fillers/sealers/paint etc... Looking for newer ideas as I'm now out of AG sanding sealer :facepalm:

If you answer (I hope you do), please suggest the procedure and if at all possible websites/threads where I can get my hands on it. Unf for me I've gotten a little lazy since fiberglass rockets came out!

Thanks again!

:headbang: fm :headbang:
 

hcmbanjo

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Just a short question...
Still need to figure finishing options as far as fillers/sealers/paint etc... Looking for newer ideas as I'm now out of AG sanding sealer :facepalm:
If you answer (I hope you do), please suggest the procedure and if at all possible websites/threads where I can get my hands on it. Unf for me I've gotten a little lazy since fiberglass rockets came out!
Thanks again! :headbang: fm :headbang:
I've used the Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler with good luck.
I buy it at WalMart here in Orlando.

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/09/carpenters-wood-filler-mix-ratios.html
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/11/get-right-carpenters-wood-filler.html
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2015/08/what-kind-of-primer-filler-do-you-use.html
 

Forever_Metal

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Step: 6 the balsa
Another day, nothing but fin work... And 2 sets of it to boot!

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1468810535.358556.jpg

1 set is epoxy, the other is Zap and they've both been pre-sanded with 400grit

To the fill...

I'm going to try 2 methods for filling and sanding; elmers pro wf and minwax sanding sealer (water based, grey can). The best as far as fit and finish will be the process of choice (the kids and I have 20 kits to build plus my hpr stuff) from now till they're done!

fm
 

Forever_Metal

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Any Elmers wood filler product with max or pro in the name is to be avoided. Wood fibers and grit in the mix are a PITA to sand.
View attachment 297305View attachment 297306

So, what I did was is brushed on thinned pro and let it set for about 5-6 minutes, then took a scraper and skimmed off the rough stuff. After it dried, sanded and primed... not so bad.

After it cures I'll post a pic!

fm
 

samb

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View attachment 297305View attachment 297306

So, what I did was is brushed on thinned pro and let it set for about 5-6 minutes, then took a scraper and skimmed off the rough stuff. After it dried, sanded and primed... not so bad.

After it cures I'll post a pic!

fm
There ya go, the proof is in the pudding; if it works, it works ! :) I'll still personally steer clear of the stuff and use the orange lid stuff like hcmbanjo pictured in one of his links in post #14. Some folks have reported good results with the color change stuff as well, but I haven't tried it myself yet.

elmers color change.jpg
 
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neil_w

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Since the regular stuff is readily available I'd see no reason to explicitly go out and by the "max" or "pro" stuff for rocketry use, but if you already have it and can make it work, then great.
 

Forever_Metal

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yeah i had already borrowed some from f.i.l so figured i'd give a shot... I think the only problem other than the grit is the water content. I would probably keep it sandwiched between books to keep it flat.

Good call though NW!

fm
 

Forever_Metal

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Well, not so nice...

After 2 coats of hbp with sanding between each coat and 2 coats of paint... Still have the grain. Soo, on to path no. 2. Today we're gonna try MW hardener and water based sanding sealer.

Here's step 1, coated with hardener.

View attachment 297514

I'm not touching my interceptor balsa until I figure this out!! Just so happens that I have a NSL 2016 Corporal that is a replacement for one that got destroyed during the move, but the fins survived so they become the defacto expendables.

Next the sanding sealer...

View attachment 297516

I'll let it dry overnight and do a first sanding after work...

Wish me luck!!!

fm
 

neil_w

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Good luck!

For what it's worth, I'm all in on papering my fins these days. Gets the job done more quickly and effectively IMHO, and adds strength.
 

Micromeister

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I've said it before; I'll repeat it here again:
Forget about all the wood fillers and sanding sealers. The simplest, easiest and most effective way to eliminate body tube seam lines and Balsa or other wood grain is to use ANY Cheapy Auto Primer with the 3 coat system. Currently I'm using Wal-Mart Color Plus Grey, Brown, or Black Auto primers. These can be purchased from your local Store for around $1.09 to $1.29 per 12oz rattle can.

The proceedure is simple:
Apply three wet coats of primer to the model. Allow 3 - 5 minutes between coats. After the 3rd coat is applied allow the rocket to sit over night or possibly 2 days depending on the humidity at your location. Using the "Sniff Test" determine if the primer has cured. The SNIFF Test: is done by placing your nose ON the suface of the model. If you can smell paint (actually Thinner and vehicle evaporating) the primer or paint is not cured (DRY). Allow another 8-12 hours and repeat the Sniff Test. Once the model is DRY. Dry sand with 220 grit sandpaper. If you hit Balsa or Cardboard. Apply another 3 Coats of Primer and Repeat the process. This time sanding with 320 -360 sandpaper until you have a babies butt smooth finish over the entire model.

At this point it is time for you base color coat of paint. DO NOT bother sanding your primer with any paper finer then 360grit. We Want the micro ridges and valleys left by the 320 or 360 grit sandpaper which give our paints a little more"tooth" for the paint to adhear too.

The larger the model the more or more balsa that is envolved this process can save you weeks of work. I haven't used a single Balsa filling compound or sealer in the last 10 years since discovering this process. It is how I finished my Interceptor-E with 1-1/2 cans of primer. This process is now my standard "filler" technique for every model I've built for last decade or so.

PS: My Completely Finished Ready to fly Interceptor-E w/ D12 engine adaptor has an Ewt of 396.0g (13.97oz) Fine OK on a single D12-3.
 
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Forever_Metal

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I like the ideas...

But with the balsa area this kit has it's already fairly heavy (my bertha tripled in weight using primer). I've rarely seen these kits fly with less than a c6 so I want to keep the weight down (i know, comps...). Those are technique that I will try again though. I've heard from a few that the avery labels make it easy (right Chuck?)...

fm
 
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neil_w

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I use the Avery labels, and have documented my own ever-evolving technique in a couple of build threads (most recently here and here). It is very quick once you get the hang of it. I'd recommend practicing on some scraps first, although I dove in head first the first time I tried it. K'Tesh has posted a good tutorial on papering with regular printer paper, don't have a link handy sorry.

Although I'm curious about Micromeister's "bathe the model in cheap primer" approach, my own life constraints force me to minimize the amount of spraying I do, so it's not the best fit for my needs.
 

Forever_Metal

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Ok, while I'm waiting for the paint to dry...

I have an Estes mean machine to build, and looking at the simple balsa fins (with a devilish grin), they are my papering candidates.

So, sanded (to the same outline, this kit has to be 30 years old) and ready for paper

View attachment 297592

Next step (after a trip to office max) will be papering and ca.

More later!

fm
 

neil_w

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If you use self stick label paper, then use wood glue for the edges, not CA. CA works well with regular paper.
 
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