Discussion in 'Low Power Rocketry (LPR)' started by Forever_Metal, Jul 6, 2016.
They look great! Which method did you use?
First off, won't be able to use this technique for all of the interceptor due to the fin design (TOTAL BUMMER!)
After the a major reshaping and leading edge rounding job (these fins are from an original mean machine, BAD die-cuts) I used Avery full sheet labels and Zap CA on the edges. Eventually covered all paper in thin coat ca and sanded; fins before coating weigh 5.9g, now weigh just over 8. If I can keep the whole rocket under 250g I'll be happy.
And, since I did the fins for the MM... went ahead and glued up a asp corporal motor mount so it can fly E/F motors and will glue the rest of the mean machine lower tube tomorrow. Going to add 3 take down buttons to mid point and add a cross bar to the top coupler to act as shock cord mount... Dang MM will be done before my favorite interceptor will be...
So, on to the next...
Here's a pic after the first coat of color. You may notice that though it was a fairly heavy top coat, you can still see what appears to be grain...
View attachment 297633
Or maybe an incompatibility between the sanding sealer and the paint itself... What I'm hoping is once I get everything down and add decals, they'll lay flat against this so I can clear it. Would like gloss but may have to settle for semi.
tanks in advance TRF!
Sorry I haven't made much progress in a few weeks.
On top of the balsa filling thing, we had a death in the family last week so it's been creeping along...
Will try to be at Manchester on Saturday, hope to see everyone there!
Ok, I think I may have a solution.
1st - I'll coat the balsa in Minwax wood hardener (the filler doesn't make the fin very strong...)
EDIT - or paper and CA if simple, then straight to primer
2nd - After off-gassing stops, will use Elmer's CWF (still available plain here in AL) and a touch of h2o to fill pores
3rd - Use low build auto primer for the rest.
sand... repeat... sand...
I've decided that I'm building a 5" int. and a 3' int.
For anyone interested, please hit up Accru8 to let him know you'd like to see (and purchase when available) a navy variant of his spectacular wraps for the interceptor. I think if there is enough interest he may be inclined to make one. Besides, need to represent :headbang::headbang::headbang::headbang:
Due to recent events and a flurry of pm traffic, the int's build are being placed on hold until I can gain some knowledge about finishes. As a BAR, even with 30 yrs of model finishing and composite repair under my belt, I'm still finding it difficult to see acceptable results using the techniques today. It may come to pass that wraps may be the way to go on these complicated fin structure rockets.
Sorry for the let down TRF!
check out this guys wraps he has them for both interceptors (24mm and 18mm)
already have 1 of his, about to get 2 more!
Had to take a few to shake the dust off and let my brain return to what's currently considered normal :eyeroll:
Now, much to the chagrin of the young folks in my house, I've decided to take the finishing variables out of the equation and use a wrap for both interceptors, the interceptor-e and vindicator-e :facepalm:. I'll still seal the balsa with hardener and sealer , but in the interest of time will use the wraps instead of paint :rant:. With 25 kits to build, my HPR L2 cert to complete, + all of the other stuff; just no time right now...
Sorry for the let-down, I'll post some pics as I work through the wrap process!
Thanks TRF, you folks are the greatest!
I'm not sure you really need to apologize for using the wraps, I think they look spectacular and undoubtedly present a different challenge. If/when I build some form of Interceptor in the future, I'll be *extremely* tempted to go with John's wraps. just based on how nice they look.
Question: if the entire rocket is going to be covered with opaque wraps, why bother with balsa sealing and such?
In the instructions, John says the wraps need something more than just bare balsa and paper to attach to (think that is true with any form of vinyl wrap). My wife says that is sound prep advice, as she did my fm logo for my Arcas. I think the idea is that it will work better with a nice smooth base to cling to.
After spending an hour or so placing all of the little decals on my Cosmic Interceptor - after spending many hours trying to get a good finish and failing, a wrap is very tempting for any Interceptor. That, or paint it one color and call it a day.
The Ol'e Sign Man says:
Vinyl wraps are just like adding a layer of paint. Whatever happens to end up under the wrap will be seen through the opaque vinyl, bare seam lines, balsa or wood grain, bit of dirt, dust and hairs WILL show through. Just like wrapping a Car, Van , Bus, Rail Car or Airplane, the entire external surface to be wrapped MUST be as blemish free as it would be for a New Paint Job.
John's Vinyl is just like all the other printed vinyl used for wraping vehicles today. All must have a clean, smooth under finish to give the best finished look. The smaller the vehicle and closer the wrap will be observed the better the base finish has to be. Models require the best base finish to start with before vinyl wrapping.
Does the vinyl need gloss underneath, like water-slides?
I've got 3 sets of John's vinyl, and all of them suggest a coat or two of sanding sealer and gloss white or black paint to "provide a good surface for the (skin) to bond to."
The good thing is that though it has to be smooth, it does not have to be picture perfect.
AND, just as an FYI, if you want to build any of the Interceptor variations, the decal set comes with really nice templates on heavy card stock of the balsa structures; that way you can build your own copy (or you can download my ORK file and use those templates).
Not sure if the time taken to do the wraps as perfect as possible or sealing/painting/sanding is a wash, but as far as cleanliness and the fact that I only have to sand 1-2 times versus 6-7 times is a slam dunk for me. THE ONLY ADVICE I HAVE is to TAKE YOUR STINKING TIME and follow his recommendations with the wraps!
This what I've been up to while deciding on a finish for the interceptors
Anyone care to guess what I got here?
Looks a bit like a box-spring, but I'm perplexed by the bungie cords.
Giant filter, hang in front to dry sans fumes? Walls are metallic, but that looks like fluorescent light. Go halogen and turn it into an EZ bake?
:lol::lol::lol::lol: Fun-nay! :lol::lol::lol::lol:
A few are off to the side, and I also have a E/F Mean Machine to prime but it didn't fit into booth...
Think that's enough?
Audi Driver has an Interceptor G for sale in his "150 kits" thread!
Sup with the build??
Hey all, sorry for the delays... Work has me traveling for the next 2 months. Will start em back up when i return!
Resurrecting this build to be next in line after I finish the ASM, STM012, Mean Machine and Dregion. Think I've got a handle on finishing with the wraps so gonna give it a shot on the Air Force wrap (saving the Navy Blue Angel till later).
I've done some searches, but cannot find a match on the product number. I've found this one, but the product number is 7271-830
I have a can that looks like you pictured can but have not used it yet, I don't know if it has the same metal Flake size as Rustoleum Silver Metallic. Rustoleum has made a couple Can graphic changes. I'd say give it a try on some scrap just to see if it has the same small Metal flake consistency.
Got asked at our meeting the other night about scratch-built pods for the venerable interceptor. So, figured I'd give it a shot...
Here's what I have so far (please stay tuned as this posting will be mod'd a few times I'm sure; have to get it right)...
Materials for this pod re-do is nothing more than BT-20 tubes and nose cones, and some 3/32" basswood I had laying around. I'll post exact dimensions after I get home today.
Having the originals (Thanks again to Bill C) is also handy. The above photo shows the orientation of the parts as they'll go together.
This shot shows how everything will go together before the fins.
The outer tubing will be glued in place along with an additional piece of tubing to fill gap. After the normal fill and prep to make it round-n-smooth and tapered both in front and behind the outer tube, will use the cut lines shown above to notch for the fin attachment. Once the notch is made, will cover a fin in film and add a small amount of foam to the pod, then place the fin in the slot (accounting for the ~20deg. pod fin offset) and let it expand and harden.
This view shows the final assembly ready for glue and foam. I've marked the tail cone at 6 spots (the original pod has 8) for the nozzles. Will use a dremel (and steady hands) to make the inverted blisters after filling with 2 part foam; keeps it rigid.
That's about it for now, more to come!
Very cool! When I built mine I cut fins from 1/8” plywood. I bought two kits and took the afterburners from each and modified them to where one is 24mm and the other is 29mm and I can switch them out when I want. I also made it dual deployment with a gps in the nose cone. I’ve only flown it once on an H128 but it went almost 2000 ft at over 400 mph. Very much worth doing in my opinion. Keep up the good work.
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