How to square large fiberglass tubes

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This is a very handy way to mark tubes/pipes. Go to 0:40 and you'll instantly understand. Someone mentioned masking tape.....but something wider and "stiffer" will eliminate any "wandering" that I have seen from narrower or less stiff stuff. I've tried other materials but make sure it is wide or it will still wander around on you.

 
This is a very handy way to mark tubes/pipes. Go to 0:40 and you'll instantly understand. Someone mentioned masking tape.....but something wider and "stiffer" will eliminate any "wandering" that I have seen from narrower or less stiff stuff. I've tried other materials but make sure it is wide or it will still wander around


 
This is a very handy way to mark tubes/pipes. Go to 0:40 and you'll instantly understand. Someone mentioned masking tape.....but something wider and "stiffer" will eliminate any "wandering" that I have seen from narrower or less stiff stuff. I've tried other materials but make sure it is wide or it will still wander around


 
And just to be REALLY sure, I will post it about 17 more times....

(sorry I had some wierd thing going on. Can I delete some of those?)
 
And just to be REALLY sure, I will post it about 17 more times....

(sorry I had some wierd thing going on. Can I delete some of those?)

Nope. They're on here forever... ;);):p
Darn, opportunity missed. I should have quoted a couple... :D
 
I jumped back very quickly as I knew for sure someone would take the opportunity to harass me on that hahaha!!
 
Hi guys, this is an older thread but it just helped me tremendously. I wanted to give a shoutout and thank you all for sharing.

I received some 3" fiberglass tubing for a new scratch build I am working on, and the ends were all a little jagged and slightly angled. It's my first time buying raw tubing outside of a kit so I'm assuming that's normal.

After reading through this thread and working with what I had on hand, I used sheets of 8.5x11 printer paper and masking tape to create perfectly square wrap-arounds. I then slid this up to within 1mm of the lowest valley. Using an orbital sander with 120 grit I took the high points down and flushed everything to the edge of the paper.

As a finishing touch, I ground connecting sections together with a coupler tube inside as mentioned by several folks here. That evened out the last 5% of variance left over from eyeballing the sanding. The result was fantastic.

As a side note, I used a chop saw with a metal cutting blade to size a couple of the pieces. That also worked out very well.

Thanks again!
 

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