Grow Your Own... Basswood Trees

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Or grow your own tung trees.
Tung wood is used in some rocket kits from China in place of balsa.
The oil from the nut is used for furniture sealing and finishing.
But all parts of the tree are toxic, especially the nut:
Tung Trees | Mississippi Encyclopedia
Don't know if it would grow in Colorado.
They tried it in California but failed.
I'm guessing that if tung trees grow in Mississippi but not California, Colorado would be right out.
 
I'm guessing that if tung trees grow in Mississippi but not California, Colorado would be right out.
Yeah, I edited my post.
Not frost tolerant so only in the Deep South (sub tropical climate).
The name comes from the Chinese word for "heart", since the leaves are heart shaped.
1644867180828.png
Apropo on Valentines Day.
Pretty but toxic.
Kind of like one of my ex.......
Never mind.
 
Or grow your own tung trees.
Tung wood is used in some rocket kits from China in place of balsa.
The oil from the nut is used for furniture sealing and finishing.
But all parts of the tree are toxic, especially the nut:
Tung Trees | Mississippi Encyclopedia
Don't know if it would grow in Colorado.
They tried it in California but failed.
Edit: Not frost tolerant, so Colorado is out.
Looks like only in the Deep South, where it is considered an invasive species.
Pretty though.
View attachment 504654
Real Tung Oil is one of my favorite finishes for wood. It really brings out the grain.
 
I've harvested my own Western PA wild cherry ("choke cherry" around here), and both I and my father-in-law have made stuff with them. My son-in-law's favorite is black walnut, which he's harvested often, and he is correct - it smells beautiful when you work it.

I had a 33" dia, 13' long section of trunk cut for lumber on a portable band-sawm mill (Woodmizer). The kids grew up playing in their "dirt patch" under that tree, so I've made stuff for the kids from it. For my daughter & son-in-law's marriage I made them a cross from my cherry and his walnut. I'm not very experienced turning yet, though. Cherry cut-burns easily, you gotta have good sharp tools and don't let'em set spinning. But I hope someday to turn a nicely-grained nose cone!
 
Recipes, please!
So the recipe I found (cant remember where I found it, but I did write it down...).

Equal parts:
1)Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil or Safflower Oil (High Linoleic, not High Oleic Acid Safflower Oil)....all are drying oils

Tung Oil better water proofing and anti-mildew properties
BLO- easier and cheaper to get than TO but, dries with a slightly yellow color (when used straight)
High Linoleic Safflower Oil-dries like the other two, more expensive (unless you have it already), its typically sold for use by artists (painter type).

2)Parrafin Wax/Beeswax or cheap dollar store candles, Carnuba wax is also an option and maybe used with the other waxes.

3) Turpentine-nuff said, I think its main purpose here is to be a solvent for the parrafin wax as parrafin likes to cool hard.

To make:
warm wax to melt
add oil to melted wax
re-melt wax and oil mixture then add turpentine
DO NOT USE AN OPEN FLAME during the melting and mixing process.

Another variation of above:
4 parts parrafin wax
2 parts carnuba wax
2 parts beeswax
6 parts High Linoleic Safflower/Tung/BLO
6 parts Turpentine
1 part Borax (acts as wood preservative)

and the last and simplest recipe.....

4 to 8 parts drying oil of choice (TO, BLO, or HLSO)
1 part Beeswax
adjust the oil to beeswax ratio to get consistency desired

all form a paste that can be applied with a pad once cooled, I store mine (well normally, I need to make more) in a cheap plastic Ziploc brand tub/container. For fresh applications on new tool handles I heat the mixture to liquify again and coat the tool handle pretty liberally and repeat several times, waiting 10 minutes or so to wipe off the excess. The tool handles are not slippery to hold, but do not use the mixture on moving parts as it will cause gumming of things like bandsaw guides etc.

Re-apply as needed, I use one of these mixtures on my lathe chisel handles, chisel handles (Japanese type, and Stanley Sweetheart, and TwoCherries wood handles, hammer and axe handles, shovels, rakes,etc...by now you guys probably get it.

I usually keep beeswax around the shop for use on screws, a little beeswax along the first 1/4 of the screw from tip to the head and they drive into wood much easier than bare metal.
 
A Maple tree once fell on my parent's house (!!!), got sawn up, and sat around for awhile. I was digging through the firewood pile and found some of it had spalted, and rescued it for projects. This is a small 'weed pot' I turned. Height is about 4".


View attachment 504560
Thats a really nice looking pot. I like the seem/grain/texture detail
 
I've harvested my own Western PA wild cherry ("choke cherry" around here), and both I and my father-in-law have made stuff with them. My son-in-law's favorite is black walnut, which he's harvested often, and he is correct - it smells beautiful when you work it.

I had a 33" dia, 13' long section of trunk cut for lumber on a portable band-sawm mill (Woodmizer). The kids grew up playing in their "dirt patch" under that tree, so I've made stuff for the kids from it. For my daughter & son-in-law's marriage I made them a cross from my cherry and his walnut. I'm not very experienced turning yet, though. Cherry cut-burns easily, you gotta have good sharp tools and don't let'em set spinning. But I hope someday to turn a nicely-grained nose cone!
Upon the advice of @lakeroadster I bought one of these chucks. It really made my wood lathe a lot easier and safer to use. I highly recommend it. :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8TB6CN?ref_=pe_527950_33920250_dpLink&th=1
 
I live In Wisconsin. I have a very large basswood tree that I’ve trimmed large branches from, like 12-14” diameter. It was nice wood, but it seemed much denser and heavier than the basswood I’ve bought from hobby suppliers. Even after I seasoned it for a year, it was still pretty dense. I’m wondering if there are different types of basswood trees? I ended up using it for firewood.
Frequently branches will be denser than the trunk. The branches have to carry a constant bending moment, so the growth adjusts to the load. This is the so called "reaction wood". Most obvious where the branches meet the trunk, but does carry through the whole branch.
 
What about Paulownia (Empress/Princess Tree)?

From Wikipedia... "Trees can grow to maturity in under 10 years and produce strong, lightweight timber, good as firewood, with an even higher strength to weight ratio than balsa wood. Its density is low at around 0.28 kg/liter, although significantly higher than balsa's very low 0.16 kg/liter."

Additionally... "Paulownia is a genus of angiosperm trees, and one of the fastest growing trees in the world".
 
Best time to plant trees... 20 years ago.
Second best time to plant trees... Right now.
 
Well, I got the thing (c. 1938 Walker-Turner) from a fellow who loved to turn bowls. And I didn't want to limit what I might do *someday*... But still, as you note, at least to have a chuck on the inboard side... I actually have a pretty nice 3-jaw chuck but the threads are wrong.
The Nova Chuck is so much more than a 3 jaw chuck. Here's a pretty decent video about the G3 chuck.

 
Another must have is a "Ball nosed T-handle allen wrench". It speeds up changing the jaws by a factor of 4.

It also helps to prevent loosing the little counter sunk screws.

View attachment 505025
Yup. Got one. I use a Hitachi cordless screwdriver with a magnetic tip to get the screws on & snug, and then one of these to cinch them down.
 
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