Fin Alignment - What went wrong?

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
Working on my Loc Athena. Got the front fins attached perfectly with my fin alignment jig, but I read using straight bar stock was the best way to make sure that the front and rear fin sets are in perfect alignment, but it did not work for me. All of my fin tips are about 1/16" off from the front ones.
FinAlignment.jpg
Anyone know what happened, or more importantly, how can I fix this?
 

qquake2k

Captain Low-N-Slow
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
13,574
Reaction score
57
I've always used aluminum angle, not bar stock. I believe there's less chance of the angle twisting. Haven't had any problems, but I haven't built that many split fin rockets. In your case, how thick are your fins? If they're 1/8", I would suspect warpage. If they're not warped, then your bar stock must have twisted or some such. Are your forward fins TTW? If they're surface mounted, you might be able to remove them and reattach them using a piece of angle.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...emi-Scale-Bullpup-Build&p=1659477#post1659477

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...uild-upscale-Estes-Shadow&p=407459#post407459
 

tomsteve

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
961
Reaction score
364
id also say using barstock and could also be only 1 clamp used on each fin. imo, its best to use 2 clamps per fin- one at leading edge and one at trailing edge of fin.

after struggling on some builds, i decided to build a fin alignment jig like the one in this thread:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?9859-Homemade-Fin-Alignment-Guide-Version-2

with a piece of material the thickness of the fin in between the 2 pieces of wood, i get perfect alignment every time. i built one for 1/8" fins and one for 1/4" fins.
 

BDB

Absent Minded Professor
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
2,511
Reaction score
829
If it’s any consolation, my Binder Tyrannosaur used to have perfectly aligned split split fins. (I used angled aluminum.) But after a crash and subsequent repair, one of them is ~1/4” out of whack. It still flies straight.


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 

crossfire

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
5,555
Reaction score
1,048
Working on my Loc Athena. Got the front fins attached perfectly with my fin alignment jig, but I read using straight bar stock was the best way to make sure that the front and rear fin sets are in perfect alignment, but it did not work for me. All of my fin tips are about 1/16" off from the front ones.
View attachment 332912
Anyone know what happened, or more importantly, how can I fix this?

Was the epoxy fully cured before you attached the back fins?
 

watermelonman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
2,597
Reaction score
9
I purposely did my Dark Star by hand, hoping small imperfections would accentuate fin whistle.

It does not seem to have any real effect, either on whistle or performance.
 

dr wogz

Fly caster
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
9,481
Reaction score
5,575
Location
Land of Poutine!
For me:
Forward (or rear, usually) fins fully cured & solid.
2 pieces of angle or pieces of metal / wood that you know are dead straight! One on each side of the fins. And running parallel to the body tube. Also, placed close to the body tube / glue joint.
2 clamps per fin, 4 total.. (affix the bars & clamps onto the already attached fin, then the 'to be added' fin slides in the the gap between the bars, then clamp once in place)
Once assembled & clamped, check with a straight-edge to ensure all aligned. Adjust as needed. Leave to cure / set for the night.
 

ksaves2

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Messages
6,666
Reaction score
768
Location
Central Illinois
Ahhhhhh cripes. Leave as is, ditch any prospect of an onboard video camera and see if it turns out spin stabilized!:wink: If all the errors cancel out and it doesn't spin, you'll just have the drag lower the altitude and then you can
slap on a camera. I've had a few rockets that really didn't spin much under boost and made nice "natural" camera platforms until they finally died. Kurt
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
I would have thought twin angle aluminum would be more correct, bar can flex.

Thanks. You're probably right. I just did not think with only an inch between the fins it could flex that much, but I have been proven wrong.
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
I've always used aluminum angle, not bar stock. I believe there's less chance of the angle twisting. Haven't had any problems, but I haven't built that many split fin rockets.

You are probably right. They looked perfect while they were clamped, and when the clamps were removed, but a day after all the clamps were removed,
In your case, how thick are your fins? If they're 1/8", I would suspect warpage. If they're not warped, then your bar stock must have twisted or some such.

Yes, the fins are 1/8", but I have been working on this for a couple months (Yes, I know, slow build) so I don't understand why they would pick now to suddenly warp. I was thinking warping as well, but why?

Are your forward fins TTW? If they're surface mounted, you might be able to remove them and reattach them using a piece of angle.

Yes, front fins are TTW. I have the fins all clamped between 2 pieces of bar stock for a week now, and they are slightly better.



Wow, that is a big gap between the front and rear fins on that Bullpup. I can see why that would need angle and multiple clamps per fin
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
Was the epoxy fully cured before you attached the back fins?

The front fins were attached with 30 minute epoxy. Dried for a couple of days before I moved on to rear fins. Rear fins were put on with J-B Weld. 24 hour cure time before moving on to the next set. With all of the fins, I generously buttered the root edge of the fin tab. Inserted the fin through the fin slot, and then pulled a fillet in the epoxy that squeezed out.
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
I purposely did my Dark Star by hand, hoping small imperfections would accentuate fin whistle.

It does not seem to have any real effect, either on whistle or performance.

Good to know that I don't have to rename the rocket "Boomerang"
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
For me:
Forward (or rear, usually) fins fully cured & solid.
2 pieces of angle or pieces of metal / wood that you know are dead straight! One on each side of the fins. And running parallel to the body tube. Also, placed close to the body tube / glue joint.
2 clamps per fin, 4 total.. (affix the bars & clamps onto the already attached fin, then the 'to be added' fin slides in the the gap between the bars, then clamp once in place)
Once assembled & clamped, check with a straight-edge to ensure all aligned. Adjust as needed. Leave to cure / set for the night.

Sounds like a good procedure. I will definitely follow that on my next split-fin. Someday I would like to do a Sea Wolf... someday :wink:
 

Mr Rocket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
475
Reaction score
29
On a recent The Rocketry Show podcast, N00b was talking about using Windex to straighten out warped balsa fins. Has anyone ever done it on birch plywood? Do you think it would work here?
 

Latest posts

Top