fill-n-finish vs. carpenters wood filler?

[Vance in AK]

I have been using Elmers "carpenter's wood filler"(I believe that's the right name, don't have it in front of me, comes in a tube, light grey color) for my filling needs, but everyone mentions Elmer's "fill & Finish", so I picked up a tub of that to try.
Besides price, what's the difference between the two?
Also, did I hear someone mention thinning this stuff for filling balsa, & if so how much do you thin it & have you had warpage problems?
Lastly, Sandman,a couple of months ago I was whining about the horrible fillets on my SBB & you told me to go over them with Fill-n-finish. I went over them with the Carpenters Wood Filler(closest thing I had) & they came out nice. Thanks.
Vance in AK.

 

[Micromeister]

Ok! I need someone to explain the need for FnF, drywall lightweight spackling compound, Caprenters wood filler or any of the like?
In the last 5 years I haven't used any of these products, Not since I discovered "Hi built" Grey and black Primers. I've recently (last two years) been using K-Mart "Smooth & Silky" Grey and Black sandable primers for everything, The most I've had to use on any one model was 6 coats on an average size model or almost one whole .99 can of primer. My model finsihes are smooth as glass and without the mess associated with rubbing in the FnF or other Balsa fillers.
I did a comparison on a 4" x 6" x 1/4" double beveled Nike fin to see if there is a weight savings.. both were within a few grams, so there must be some advantage I'm not seeing.

Wish I had a close up of the finish on this 3X upscale and my original Laser X models all the Balsa and 1/64th plywwood on the fins and transition cover were filled this way in 4 coats of Grey and black primers. finished with two coats of Black and White Krylon.

 

[Stymye]

you can thin it to the consistency of a warm milkshake
and brush it on

or dry rubbing it in, without thinning

 

[Stymye]

Micro,
I preferr not to have to spray numerous coats of primer mainly because of the smell and the large amount of paint dust the technique creates.

remember,some people do not have much space availiable for a spray area
I can sit in the house and apply filler at my leisure and do a little sanding .It doesn't stink up the place and doesn't create near as much mess.than go to the garage and finish the job.

 

[Austin]

I am with Stymye on the paint fumes thing...since most of my painting is indoors, it is not practical to make it any worse by adding high dust primers. I use the filler in the tube and it works fine.

Carl

 

[Micromeister]

10-4 on the lack of space! Ok so I'm really not missing something, it's a space thing. you are correct bout the overspray if you don't have a paint booth with an exhaust system. Yeap Carl I do all my Spary painting indoors also.
Speaking of which (a little off subject) I'm not sure if they are still available but Harbor Freight has a really nice "Small paint booth" 12" x 12" x 22.5" steel cabinet with window and blower for $85.00 a while ago, really nice for small to medium models.

 

[Vance in AK]

I guess my reasons are probably the same as Stymye & Carl's, but with an addittion. I don't have to ait for primer to dry. Thin coats of the carpenters wood filler dry almost instantly. Also I can fill out knicks & such in the edges of fins, & on the Polaris I'm building right now I got to smoothe out the joint where the transition goes into the upper body tube to make it appear more seamless.
So is there any difference between these two fillers?
Vance in AK.

 

[doxiedog315]

I have been using the stuff in the tube. Works good,but the dust from sanding makes me sneeze!

 

[KermieD]

Vance,

To answer your question, I believe the answer is "no". If there is one at all, I'm not aware of it and for the purposes we're using it, there is no difference.

 

[Vance in AK]

Thanks Kermie.

 

[flying_silverad]

Originally posted by Micromister
Ok! I need someone to explain the need for FnF, drywall lightweight spackling compound, Caprenters wood filler or any of the like?
In the last 5 years I haven't used any of these products, Not since I discovered "Hi built" Grey and black Primers. I've recently (last two years) been using K-Mart "Smooth & Silky" Grey and Black sandable primers for everything..... .......both were within a few grams, so there must be some advantage I'm not seeing.

Wish I had a close up of the finish on this 3X upscale and my original Laser X models all the Balsa and 1/64th plywwood on the fins and transition cover were filled this way in 4 coats of Grey and black primers. finished with two coats of Black and White Krylon.

I guess for me, like Stymye, I can live without the fumes. Even if you a a spray booth, you still get residual fumes and in a basement where I have close quarters and a 2 pilot lights, I would rather not paint. Trust me, If I could I would.

But Elmer's let's me also build cool fillets that I just can't with primers. Epoxies are heavier and If my primary glue fillets are strong, I never run into cracking issues. Since I am already forming the fillets with my finger anyway, I just keep smearing the stuff all over the rest of the balsa. Sanding is dusty, but a simple paper mask takes cares of it.
The stuff I get comes in a tube but here is a link to a tub of it...
https://www.elmers.com/product/product_page.asp?pCode=E839