Thanks for the tip! I have a Booster-55 that I have no rocket to mate to. I will just make the booster into a rocket.I have a couple I built from the Booster-55 and Booster-60 fin cans. Just peel off the short chunk of BT that's glued to the plastic fin can, grind it smooth, and glue on an actual body tube. The cool thing about them is, as long as you fly BP motors without a thrust ring, the motor retainer cap holds/locks the fins in position. So you don't have to actually glue the fins in and you can remove them whenever needed. It's a take-down rocket. This makes the rockets super easy to stuff in my luggage when I fly out west to where the dry lakes are. It also makes the fins trivially replaceable if anything happens to one. And you can mix and match between the black fins of the Booster-55 and the red fins of the Booster-60.
I hadn't seen the Blue Ninja. I like the idea of it: just a big 'ol BT-60 rocket with a DRM nose cone and Black Brant VC fin can. If there's ever a time to refinish, you could swap that nose cone over to the one from the Patriot and Curvilinear kits and do it up as a BB VC with the Saab guidance fins in the payload.
One of my friends has one that has about 250 flights on it, still going strong.Baby Bertha. Had several bulk packs of B6-4s and many C6-5s through it. 9" parachute doesn't like to open on it but it honestly could just tumble with the nose off. Fallen so many times and just keeps going. I know someday it'll die
Yes, and uses a removable baffle.Is that 18mm power?
Ok, here is one of my Booster-60’s being test fitted to a BT-60 tube to be used as a BT-60 fin can. Do I need to cut a bigger hole in the plastic where the ejection charge blows through? This won’t be a “booster” anymore. It needs to eject the laundry.I have a couple I built from the Booster-55 and Booster-60 fin cans. Just peel off the short chunk of BT that's glued to the plastic fin can, grind it smooth, and glue on an actual body tube. The cool thing about them is, as long as you fly BP motors without a thrust ring, the motor retainer cap holds/locks the fins in position. So you don't have to actually glue the fins in and you can remove them whenever needed. It's a take-down rocket. This makes the rockets super easy to stuff in my luggage when I fly out west to where the dry lakes are. It also makes the fins trivially replaceable if anything happens to one. And you can mix and match between the black fins of the Booster-55 and the red fins of the Booster-60.
I hadn't seen the Blue Ninja. I like the idea of it: just a big 'ol BT-60 rocket with a DRM nose cone and Black Brant VC fin can. If there's ever a time to refinish, you could swap that nose cone over to the one from the Patriot and Curvilinear kits and do it up as a BB VC with the Saab guidance fins in the payload.
Using. Baby Bertha as the payload bay. The Baby Bertha may be the most versatile rocket kit ever.That's the easy way to join the tubes. I peeled the cardboard off the fin can and sanded the glue back to plastic with 80-grit, then epoxied the new tube directly to the plastic can.
Yes, you need to open up the internal nozzle to the ID of the 24mm motor case to ensure the ejection charge and clay cap are unimpeded. Easiest way I found was just a big Unibit. (Or, as in my cheap-arse case, the Harbor Freight imitation Unibit. Nine out of ten orphan fin cans can't tell the difference.)
Hardest way I found was chucking the can up in a lathe and removing as much of the nozzle as I could, then opening up the ID a little more to glue in a piece of BT-50 and make it a 95mm compatible mount. Or leave out the motor block and fly motors with thrust rings on them, but then the retainer cap doesn't abut the back of the fins and hold them in place, so you lose the benefit of a "take down" rocket with removable fins.
Drilled out the hole in the booster 60 as much as I could with the stepper drill bit.That's the easy way to join the tubes. I peeled the cardboard off the fin can and sanded the glue back to plastic with 80-grit, then epoxied the new tube directly to the plastic can.
Yes, you need to open up the internal nozzle to the ID of the 24mm motor case to ensure the ejection charge and clay cap are unimpeded. Easiest way I found was just a big Unibit. (Or, as in my cheap-arse case, the Harbor Freight imitation Unibit. Nine out of ten orphan fin cans can't tell the difference.)
Hardest way I found was chucking the can up in a lathe and removing as much of the nozzle as I could, then opening up the ID a little more to glue in a piece of BT-50 and make it a 95mm compatible mount. Or leave out the motor block and fly motors with thrust rings on them, but then the retainer cap doesn't abut the back of the fins and hold them in place, so you lose the benefit of a "take down" rocket with removable fins.
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