Estes Mean Machine Build.

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Back_at_it

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With the upscale Yankee project on hold waiting for primer and warmer weather, I feel like this is a good time to build something else. I've mentioned on here a few times that I have a friend that is into rockets but because of some physical limitations he prefers to fly them rather than build them so I help out from time to time with assembly. A few weeks back he was at the house looking at my rockets and saw my Mean Machine and asked if I could build one for him. We talked about a build and he said he wanted it built exactly the same way I build mine. Since I didn't share my Mean Machine build with you guys the first time around, I figured I'd drag you along with me kicking and screaming the whole way.

Over the years I've built, flown and like most of us, crashed my fair share of Mean Machines. As I see it, the rocket has two issues that need to be addressed. Both have to do with it's length and both are resolved with two modifications. Due to the length of the rocket, it's not at all uncommon for the recovery system to fail to deploy. There is simply too much empty body tube there for something like a D12-3 to pressurize consistently. I crashed my first MM twice this way after weak ejection charges.

The second issue is the strength of the tubing. If you have ever watched a stock mean machine fly you've undoubtedly seen it bend and flex during flight. If you give it a little too much thrust, it's not uncommon to see the rocket fold in half on launch. This is what happened to my last MM on an E20. About 100ft into the flight it simply folded itself in half.

Let get the build started. For the most part we are going to use the kit parts with a couple of exceptions. The stock heavy plastic coupler is not being used. I'll also be adding a length of coupler with a bulkhead, a couple of extra centering rings, 1/4" lugs, 8ft of shock cord and 40 inches of BT50H tubing for a stuffer tube (yes it's only 34" in the pic. I remembered basic math after taking the pic). The stuffer tube will reduce the internal volume for moor consistent ejections and the the extra tube and centering rings will add much needed rigidity to the entire rocket.


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Getting started with motor mount. I've marked the motor tube at the 3.5" mark for 1/4" overhang of the motor. A motor block will be inserted at the 3.5" mark as well.

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With the motor block inserted, I attached the motor clip. The first inch or so of the clip was glued in place to help keep it from moving using medium CA.

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Next I applied the exterior ring to keep the motor clip in place. After testing the spring tension, I decided that I wanted the ring installed 1.25" from the rear of the motor tube. This was attached using TBII.

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Next I installed the lower centering ring. For this I used one of the stock paper rings but did coat it in TBII for a little extra rigidity.

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Going to let this dry. Hoping to have a little time to get the couplers and centering rings installed after dinner this evening.
 
On my next Mean Machine I will reinforce the body tube just above the motor mount. CA soak or some coupler. That is were they always kind after many flights or a slight crash.

Yes. I’ve had one kink just above the motor tube as well. I love the rocket but it has some issues. Adding the extended stuffer tube resolves pretty much all of them.
 
Over the weekend I attached all four fins. The outer layer of tube was removed then the fins were tacked in place with thick CA.

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Epoxy fillets were then added using BSI30 min and allowed to fully cure. Due to the size of this rocket, it is best to work in small sub-assemblies. I applied two coats of SEM high build primer to the fins then coated them in DAP brand wood filler before sanding smooth with 400 grit.

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While the primer and filler were drying I turned my attention to the body tube. Specifically the couplers and centering rings. The idea is to use the inner motor tube to brace the rocket. To do this I using a total of four centering rings in the build to connect the motor tube to the main body tube. I have included a screenshot from OR below to show their placement.

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To accomplish this I inserted the centering rings in the tops of two of the body tubes then using the couplers to ensure the rings are square in the tubing.

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First was the lower tube with the fins attached.

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Next came the second tube.

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This rocket is going to separate between the third and fourth tubes so I'm going to need to build a coupler with a bulkhead. I'm starting with a six inch section of coupler stock from BMS. To this I'm adding a bulkhead and screw eye.


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The bulkhead was reinforced with a scrap piece of plywood where the screw eye will attach and allowed to dry.

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The bulkhead was then inserted into the coupler and allowed to cure. Next up was inserting the finished coupler into the upper body tube.

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I then coated the outside of the coupler with thinned epoxy and allowed it to soak in before wiping away the excess.

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At this point we have a bunch of sub-assemblies ready to go together.

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It is time insert the motor tube into the lower body tube. The motor mount is inserted until the motor clip is flush with the lower part of the body tube. There is still plenty of room to insert the motor but I don't need to look at the motor clip protruding below the body tube.

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Here is the first tube with the motor mount installed.

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That is as far I got with the build over the weekend.
 
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Made a little more progress this morning. Hoping to have this one ready for paint by the weekend as they are calling for mid-40's.

Started by adding a fillet around the centering ring in the lower tube to give it a touch more rigidity. Did this with TBII.

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Here are the next tubes to connect. For this I used 15 min. epoxy on the coupler. I don't want the tubes getting stuck or setting up before I can get the tubes aligned and straight. The epoxy will give me several minutes to move things around.

Once attached, I placed the rocket into a 4ft piece of aluminum angle and taped the tubes down to ensure they were straight and let them cure.

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Once cured added the upper centering ring. This ring is made of 1/8" ply and has a small scrap piece reinforcing where the Kevlar attaches. The outer layer of the tube has been removed to allow better adhesion.

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After letting that dry, I added a section of #500 Kevlar. The Kevlar was threaded through a hole in the ring then a double knot was made to prevent it from pulling through. The knot was glued in place and a section of heat shrink was applied to protect the first few inches of Kevlar. This is so far from the motor ejection that it isn't really necessary but I might as well do it since I can't get back in there later.

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I then primed the join and used DAP wood filler to smooth it out. I also add 1/4" lugs. This thing is so tall It really needs the thicker rod to keep it from blowing around.

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From this point I'm planning to prime and paint the individual sections as this rocket is simply too long to paint assembled. The weather is warm enough now to prime and it's looking like the weekend will be warm enough to paint. Might be a couple of days before I'm back with an update.
 
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Love the stuffer tube and the kevlar heat shrink protection.

Seems like this would be an excellent rocket for mini rail buttons.
 
Love the stuffer tube and the kevlar heat shrink protection.

Seems like this would be an excellent rocket for mini rail buttons.

I agree completely. If I was building another one for myself I think I'd do mini buttons but my buddy who I'm building this for doesn't have that setup at the moment.
 
I was able to wrap up the MM build this weekend which is good as my buddy wants to fly this coming weekend if the weather holds and he is looking forward to this one.

The weather was warm enough to get the paint sprayed on. Due to the rockets size, I painted it in sections. I first shot on 2 coats of Krylon gloss white on the lower two tubes. The upper two tubes and nose cone were then painted using Krylon Foil Blue. Here we have the rocket painted but still in pieces.

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For this pic I slid the upper sections together and inserted the nose cone. This pic gives you a good look at how long the stuffer tube is and how it extended into the #3 tube.

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Time for decals. Before final assembly, I added the decals to the lower section. Thankfully the water slides on this kit were new and didn't cause me any issues.

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After letting the decals dry for a few hours it was time to join the lower section the upper #3 tube. I used BSI 15 min. epoxy for the connection as I wanted to have enough working time to get the tubes straight. The tubes were connected and the rocket was placed back into a 4ft piece of aluminum angle and allowed to cure for a couple of hours.

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Here is a shot with the #3 tube attached.

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The last piece of the puzzle was to attach the shock cord and take a final pic.

Sorry for the sideways shot. I didn't realizes the rocket was turned until I loaded the pic just now.

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Final weight on this build with stock parachute comes in at 8.1oz so it is still capable of flying on a D12-3 motors.
 
Excellent and so much better than a standard out the box build . Thanks for sharing .
Oh and nice to see the Estes impulse box in the pic .👍
 
Does anyone have a good scan of those current decals? Much more funner than the old 1980s style at JimZ.
Indeed, I might need to use a variation on this style if I ever get around to building the 4" upscale that skulks among the least rational fringes of my future project list.
 
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