where is the certainty that ignitor is toching propellant?would something like this work?
where is the certainty that ignitor is toching propellant?would something like this work?
Great video...you got me convinced that dipping Estes igniter will ensure a good start....the shame is having to buy a 3rd party product to get them to work as they should in the 1st placeHow To Enhance OEM Motor Starters
See: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yjK8mLxuK24S0kzG4aznaTPvgbMhcFDw/view?usp=sharing
QuickBurst
The rocket literally rests on the igniter.where is the certainty that ignitor is toching propellant?
The best advice I've found on TRF is to dip the Estes igniters in Testors Silver paint. Testors paint is flammable. No need to deal with pyrogen or pyrogen and BP combo. Works great, simple and super easy.Yesterday, I tried my 1st launch since Aug. I had 2 out 3 ignitors fail. Removal of the ignitors revealed they broke. Now when I did my 1st launches in July and Aug 3 ignitors failed. So out of 5-6 launces I have had 5 ignitors failure. Yet as a BAR 15-20 years ago I had maybe 3 failures (broken) in 2 dozen flights. Now I know as an engineer wire will not degrade over time, unless you use it/bend it etc. I installed all ignitors at Home, Engine vertical on a bench, being careful and insuring completer insertion. Is it the Plug? When a newbie had issues earlier this year, one response was to forget the plug and tape,. I defended the plug by saying they are great and very few issues. So much for that opinion. These are the old black pyrogen ignitors and I hate wasting them. 2nd Question- since most clubs use car batteries has anybody just gone back to nichrome wire (Black Powder motors), make a loop in the wire, insert and use wadding or tape to hold. Nichrome works perfectly on 12v lantern batteries. If yes any idea of the gauge?
Estes, please ship redesign ignitors as promised.
Unrelative topic...my one flight was a Black Brant II on a B6-4 engine...beautiful flight to over 300 feet (guess). The B4 engine I tried in July....was underpower. So go built a BB II and fly it on B6's and maybe a C5 and forget what used to be said.."Launch it and lose it"...on a D engine.
I've not heard this one before. Why silver?The best advice I've found on TRF is to dip the Estes igniters in Testors Silver paint. Testors paint is flammable. Works great. I bought the bottle on Amazon. It will last a lifetime.
Don't know. The guy said silver, I bought silver. It may have something to do with what they put in the paint to make it silver colored, perhaps aluminum powder?I've not heard this one before. Why silver?
Very interesting indeed. Have you done any standalone tests with it, and maybe even took some video?Don't know. The guy said silver, I bought silver. It may have something to do with what they put in the paint to make it silver colored, perhaps aluminum powder?
Sort of. After I first dipped some I lit one using a 2S LiPo (7.4V) on my worktable (because it was sitting there and handy). It flamed up right away and the flame lasted for 2-3 seconds, so it's definitely better than the untreated igniters.Very interesting indeed. Have you done any standalone tests with it, and maybe even took some video?
Sounds like fun, I'll have to try it.Sort of. After I first dipped some I lit one using a 2S LiPo (7.4V) on my worktable (because it was sitting there and handy). It flamed up right away and the flame lasted for 2-3 seconds, so it's definitely better than the untreated igniters.
Does not compute...
Almost certainly. Aluminum powder---atomized or flakes, depending on the desired appearance---is the most commonly used pigment for silver and certain metallic-look paints.Don't know. The guy said silver, I bought silver. It may have something to do with what they put in the paint to make it silver colored, perhaps aluminum powder?
Not sure what you mean about break glue do you mean the adhesive strip attached to ignitor?? As for chutes, you have more experience than anyone...you launch every week...but I sure you stated this also. Install chute at the launch pad to avoid the "sticky" plastic. I like you, use small chute chutes or the 18 incher mostly "tied/twisted" together so I can recover in my small field. The wadding/dog bawf is installed at home so I can get in and out quickly since it is a public park.
Not hard to find on Amazon...Hard to get "baby powder" nowadays....most powder is corn starch. But I will look, next time I am at the store.
For paint pigments, tis coated flake Al (more surface area than atomized=less metal needed). Coating typically stearin or stearic acid to maintain shine. Without coating, Al surface will quickly oxidize in atmosphere and form a dull grey aluminum oxide layer atop it. Often around 325 mesh-size (average around 44-microns). Amateur fireworkers in countries where pyro Al is not easily available have extracted it from various metallic paints as a very expensive way to get Al powder.Almost certainly. Aluminum powder---atomized or flakes, depending on the desired appearance---is the most commonly used pigment for silver and certain metallic-look paints.
US Composites, 5 lb real talc (unscented) for $7.Hard to get "baby powder" nowadays....most powder is corn starch. But I will look, next time I am at the store.
Plus around $20, give or take, for their cheapest Retail Package shipping, more if you're ordering a bunch of other stuff (great resin selection). Their description is that it is about a 5-gallon bucket size. That's a lot of chute powdering! And uncertain grain size so might require milling (or mortar n pestle--the stuff's pretty soft). Maybe best for a club purchase?US Composites, 5 lb real talc (unscented) for $7.
More like a 1-gallon bucket. Talc is among the softest of minerals; what I bought does not seem to have large particles. I suspect that if there were any large particles, the shaking that the stuff gets during transportation would break them down. I got it along with other composite materials, partly to use as a cheap epoxy filler. My nearest pottery supplier is either 2 hours away or 3.5 hours, depending on what I want.Plus around $20, give or take, for their cheapest Retail Package shipping, more if you're ordering a bunch of other stuff (great resin selection). Their description is that it is about a 5-gallon bucket size. That's a lot of chute powdering! And uncertain grain size so might require milling (or mortar n pestle--the stuff's pretty soft). Maybe best for a club purchase?
A better option for cheap talc might be a local pottery/ceramics supplier that you can easily find online. They're all over. Talc might be shown as "Texas" or it's chemical name magnesium silicate or magnesium silicate hydrate. The one by my place sells pounds for 75 cents each, less in quantity (plus tax and gasoline for the 25 mile drive through the countryside).
Also can be a good source for sodium silicate solution (waterglass) for fireproofing and toughening; smaller sizes available and generally cheaper at any size than the driveway sealant at HD and other big box stores, at least at my ceramics guy...
And other fun stuff, too (rocket nozzle mixes!!!).
I stand corrected. I got my 5s turned around. Their web description states that their 5-lb talc is approx 1/2 gallon! https://uscomposites.com/fillers.html Ooops. Still quite a lot! But I hate getting inaccurate information and am embarrassed to have given such. Moving that decimal point over a single space is an order-of-magnitude difference--not trivial...More like a 1-gallon bucket. Talc is among the softest of minerals; what I bought does not seem to have large particles. I suspect that if there were any large particles, the shaking that the stuff gets during transportation would break them down. I got it along with other composite materials, partly to use as a cheap epoxy filler. My nearest pottery supplier is either 2 hours away or 3.5 hours, depending on what I want.
Best -- Terry
Cool. I was just asking because I didn't know. Thanks.It could be used. It will probably discolor them. Powdered graphite is second only to air float charcoal for making/spreading mess. It's also more flamable. NOTE: almost every finely divided material, whether flamable in its normal state or not, can cause a dust explosion. I'm not saying it will. I've never see one with normal mod rock proceedures. But the risk is there.
Well, I do believe lampblack would easily beat out both charcoal and graphite in the messy department. And as a fuel, it easily beats graphite, too.It could be used. It will probably discolor them. Powdered graphite is second only to air float charcoal for making/spreading mess. It's also more flamable. NOTE: almost every finely divided material, whether flamable in its normal state or not, can cause a dust explosion. I'm not saying it will. I've never see one with normal mod rock proceedures. But the risk is there.
Well, unlike the litigation about the Johnson & Johnson product that was found to contain carcinogenic asbestos (commonly co-localized in talc deposits), there really is no prospective evidence of any definitive linkage between pure talc and and mesothelioma or ovarian cancer. Or J&J wouldn't still be on the shelves of every Walmart and CVS. And it is simple to find around here. I'd guess elsewhere, too. Unless it all got hoarded along with the buttwipe. Love nylon, but if you're using plastic like a gadzillion LPR/MPR rockets still do, you can either wear a hazmat suit, stand upwind when powdering your chutes, try graphite, or worry about something probably a little more hazardous like crossing a busy street.Why are you guys suggesting to use talc? It's hard to find as it causes cancer for some. Best to avoid it.
The problem is the garbage bag chutes. Thin mill nylon is the way to go.
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