El Tres - A Carbon COVID-19 Level 3 build.

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BryRocket

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Like most, I have been contemplating a Level 3 build and certification attempt. I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to do, the techniques I wanted to use and a lot of the supplies already on hand so I reached out to a few local rocketry legends (Stu Barrett and Jim Jarvis) to see if they would mind lending a hand as my TAPs. I won't go into details on what it took to convince them to endure my countless emails and help me with the project but ultimately they agreed! I had planned for this build to take me a very long time but I ended up with about two months of reduced working hours (like most) so I hammered out a bunch of it.

I'll try to keep this thread as concise as possible.

Initial Plan: Roll-wrap 3" carbon fiber tubes and make a minimum diameter rocket that would fly on a CTI 6XL motor (this is where CJ tells ME I'm crazy). I also wanted to use the "zipperless coupler" design, suspending the EBay in the upper airframe. Here is the design:
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Lets start with the tubes. I wanted to make 2 tubes, each 44' long and then cut them to size. I will not go much into the tube rolling process as you'd be better suited visiting Jim Jarvis' web tutorial on that HERE for part 1 and HERE for part 2. I used 2x2, 3K twill weave from Composite Envisions. I LOVE this stuff. The weblock makes it so much easier to cut the cloth into accurate patterns. I also used AeroPoxy system 2032 resin with the slower 3665 hardener. For the mandrel, I used 2 36" sections of Public Missiles 3" coupler tubing and then cut one down to make one long tube of 50". I printed out a number of centering rings and a large tube-joining coupler and mated them onto a long 1" piece of conduit to make the mandrel. I also printed out the rest of my mandrel setup. I then applied a high temp wax to the mandrel a few times, wiping it off really good between coats. 0.005" Mylar film was used to wrap the mandrel and was covered on both sides with the same wax. This is where my first problem occurred. Apparently I had some 0.002" mylar laying around and used it. The tube came off beautifully, I was so happy with it but then I couldn't get a motor case to slide in easily. It would actually take a CTI case but wouldn't accept my snap ring cases or the standard fiberglass couplers. I contemplated just committing to the CTI case, sanding down the OD of the coupler, etc but just couldn't stand it so I ended up going back and making two more tubes, but with the correct 0.005" mylar and the ID of those came out perfect. Ultimately I ended up with 3 good tubes, one a slightly too small ID.

The mandrel:
Printed centering rings and long coupler, conduit and PML coupler tubing.
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Finished mandrel. The screwdriver just goes into holes that lock the tube into place.
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Carbon cut to give me 48" tubes that have 6 wraps.
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Ready to roll, albeit with the wrong mylar on the mandrel.
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Didn't take photos during the rolling process but I have a time lapse video that isn't all that exciting. Here is the first finished tube. They all ended up looking almost exactly the same. After the carbon was completely rolled I used peelply over the top. For those that have rolled tubes, when you think you're about done as you finish the carbon and start the peel ply, you realize now the fun really starts trying to get it wetted out just right. Ugh.
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Here is a tube after another light layer of epoxy has been applied and allowed to cure for a few days prior to sanding.
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Now were having some real fun. Sanding down the tubes with 120 grit, then 320 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit then finally 2000 grit. I left the fin attachment area alone after the 120 grit.
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Here are my tubes after that stage and cut down just a touch.
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Next up will be fins.
 
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Fins.

I didn't try to do anything crazy here. I knew I wanted to use 3 fins and had a rough idea of the shape I was going for. *** I'm posting about the fins a little out of order: Before I decided on the shape, I had already completely made the ebay, nosecone with tracker setup, weighed every component and now had the weights and lengths of my tubes. I then determined what motors I intended to fly, what stability margins I wanted and had a rough idea on the weight of the tip to tip carbon that would be added.*** This is how I usually do scratch builds so I make sure not to screw up the fin spans, etc.
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I had intended to use 1/8" G10 for my fins and then laminate them with 3 layers/side of carbon. I just can't figure out how to bevel properly so I decided to call on Tim at Wildman for this. I sent him my CAD file for the fins and decided to have him CNC and bevel me some fins out of 3/16" carbon fiber. They turned out wonderful as I had expected. And he sent me an extra! Wait, did I pay for 4??

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Time to attach them. You will notice I use a 3D printer for so many things. Here they are tacked on with a light amount of Proline High Temp Epoxy. Love/Hate with the Proline.
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Now on to the filets. Done with Proline as well. I use peelply over the top and then smash with a piece of tubing to the shape I'm after. The shaping process took me quite a bit of time.
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Here they are just after pulling the peelply off.
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I would then wrap that same piece of tubing and try to sand it all down to a nice uniform filet. The little bandaid is how I addressed a few ares that seemed a little low to me. I'd reapply some epoxy, let it get a little firm, smash it down with peelply and my tubing and then repeat the process.
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Tip to Tip next up.
 
First, cut some carbon. I made a template for the pieces I wanted to use. This process is again similar to Jim's so see his links for more detail. I decided on 2 layers of T2T as this thing already felt super stiff. I also made the top layer of T2T extend up the airframe by 5mm more than the underneath one. Prior to starting I sanded down the areas where the seams would be to make blending them later easier.

I cut 6 pieces of carbon with their corresponding pieces of peel ply (we will find out that I didn't cut enough).
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I applied epoxy to the prepared area:
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After the two layers were added I put the peel ply down and wetted the fabric out.
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Here is the first section just after pulling the peelply and trimming the fabric along the fins and joints.
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Then the unexpected happened, which I have never had happen before. On the last section, I noticed something was very unusual immediately after walking up on it. The peelply looked all bumpy. I pulled it off and holy crap the whole thing looked bumpy like the carbon had all wrinkled. PANIC.
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To say I was distraught would be an understatement. I panicked and got to work pulling the layers off. Luckily I used the slow curing hardener and it had only been about 8 hours.
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Yikes!
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Oddly the underside of the carbon was actually smooth. Did it just wrinkle on the top??
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I started cutting into the carbon trying to evaluate what happened. Turns out those are not ridges in the carbon, they were bumps of epoxy. I could just shave them off all the way down to the carbon. My guess is that I used more epoxy than usual on that piece and it kind of pooled in little ridges under the peelply. Weird. Anyway, I got to sand it all down again after the epoxy cured, cut new pieces of fabric and try again. Fortunatley, it went good and normal and all the tip to tip was done.
 
Here are the fins after I put a light coat of epoxy on them prior to sanding.
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More sanding:
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Here it is after some sanding and getting everything cleaned up. I made a little bevel jig (yes with the printer) and ran it over the edges to get them all uniform and sharpened up.
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Now I painted on 2 coats of Proline to the leading edges. This is one of my most dreaded tasks as I just can't get it as smooth as I'd like. The trick is ULTRA thin layers. You should also, if using Proline, mix some and do ONE edge. Then mix some more and do the next. This would keep it thinned enough and give you time. I did not do either of those well enough. It turned out okay and will get the job done but its still not as nice as I had hoped.
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Next I'll get into the ebay stuff later tonight or tomorrow.
 

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On to the coupler with more 3D printing assistance. Goal was to make a shorter 6" long ebay that housed two altimeters, their batteries, switches and a camera and be suspended in the airframe. Carbon makes this a little more difficult as its opaque and you can see what/where you're drilling. Without 3D printing drill guides I'd be lost. I design everything in Fusion360 - Sled, coupler, bulkheads, coupler drill guide and then airframe drill guide. I make all parts with plastic first and make sure it all works prior to drilling into my carbon.

To start, this is the design I went with. It has a camera and switches on one side and two altimeters and the batteries on the other. I designed this prior to my interest in split design cameras so I used a packaged RunCam 2 with lens extender cable for this sled. On the back of the sled, with the altimeters, you can see a bolt. When that bolt is tight, the lens is in its retracted position. If you back that screw out about 6-8 turns, the lens extends outward through the coupler and into the airframe. I used a spiral spring in the design.
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Here are the parts. You can probably figure it out.
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Lens extended.
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Lens retracted.
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Retracted.
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Extended
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Camera power and wifi access.
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So I printed a coupler drill guide that matches up with all the import components. I then slid the coupler into the guide to make sure it was the perfect length and square.
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Here is the coupler all drilled out. Holes for the camera lens, power screws, camera button access, hole to access the screw that turns the lens extender and the 3 holes to attach the ebay inside the airframe.
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Then I printed a very solid ring to epoxy inside the coupler. It has holes for screw inserts. This was printed out of solid PETG.
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It is then epoxied into the coupler with thick filets of RocketPoxy on both sides and over the top.IMG_5269.jpeg

On to the airframe drilling. I printed a guide for this as well that aligned all the holes. Tensions high during this.
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Looking close.
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Hallelujah it all fits and lined up perfectly. Lens still retracted here so it can go into the airframe.
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Here is the lens extended outward 5 turns. It can go to 9 turns but if you go past and it comes apart in there, you're going to be taking everything apart. I've decided to settle on 6 turns as its out quite a bit but isn't sticking the lens into the wind but its close.
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Here is the finished ebay. I made the charge wells from 3/8" or 1/2" aluminum tubing that I cut to size. I printed a little screw holder that went inside the tubing to keep the screw centered at the bottom and then filled epoxy in on both sides. They are super solid and then added a touch of JB Weld as I installed them onto the bulkheads.

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Coupler/booster attachment point.

I laminated a 3/16" bulkhead with 3 layers of carbon/side.
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I then did a totally ugly but very effective job of epoxying the bulkhead into the coupler. Thick filets on both sides. The hole in the middle is for the forward retention of the motor. I also did some carbon lining of the inside of the coupler to stiffen it up a little.
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I put the 6" coupler into the booster tube by 2.75" leaving 3.25" to go into the airframe.
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Once I was somewhat happy with where we were, I wiped on and off a very thin layer of epoxy with a lint-free rag. You can see the difference here. The tubes after the 2000 grit are pretty decent but the epoxy gives it a nice shine and a little extra protection. Once the tube are wiped down and cure at room temp for a day or two, I then place in my curing oven (my black audi parked in the Texas sun). The tube on the left is wiped and the right one isn't.
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Time for guides. 1010 Acme aluminum guides from Giant Leap. Love Giant Leap!

Printed guide guides! These helped me to get them on just perfect. Again with a light amount of Proline.
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For some reason, in this photo, it appears the fin and beveling aren't real smooth. That is actually just smudges and I can assure you it's very smooth and uniform. I had to run and go look at it!
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Scratched up the area.

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Added the proline.
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Placed the guide on and then removed the excess epoxy and placed the guides in place.
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Once those dried, I went back and taped it off and added more proline and made little filets around the guides.
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And now it's pretty much done. I have robbed the recovery gear from another 3" rocket for now but I am basically putting together new gear for this one. It uses a piston for the main. I'll post that up when I'm done with it. I also need to get some photos of my tracker/nose cone setup.

Here are some pics of the mostly finished product. All blacked out. I'll get some more pictures soon and wrap up the build portion of this thread.
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Once we get an opportunity to fly again, I'll take it up to our local field and give it a go. I won't be able to try for my cert flight here in Texas because any M motor would bust some waivers so I'm hoping I can coordinate with my TAPs and go to Airfest or Balls to try for the flight.

I went back and forth on motor options. I considered the CTI green M1545 because its a 6XL, its green so its cool, it would go Mach 2.1 (I haven't been over M2.0 before) but it would top out at ~27,500. I've been higher than that. So, there is a 6 grain M840 Longburn. It wouldn't break M2.0 or 28,000' but it does have a 9 second burn so that would be awesome! But of course I'm drawn to the M2245 IMax with a rocking 4.3 sec burn, Mach 2.6 and 34k'. Lots of firsts there. Of course the rocket may just shred so I can make the argument for either of the first two options being the smarter choice. Naturally I ordered the IMax though.

I do intend to fly it a time or two prior so I'll have a better feel for my confidence level with it.

Just mixed and made up two K motors. A 75mm 2 grain blue and a 54mm 5 grain red that I plan to use soon. I made a 1200gram ballast that I put on the forward retention rod that will keep them below our 10k waiver and keep the stability from being too great.
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Here is an example of how I use ballast when doing "altitude mitigation" and when dealing with overstable rockets that are designed to be flown on bigger, heavier loads. For these flights I'll have the weights just above the forward closure.
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Thats about it for now. I'll update with the nosecone/tracker setup (I use the Featherweight system) and the recovery once I have that all organized. The chutes are from Julie at Spherechutes. 18" drogue and 66" main.
 
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very nice build!

a carbon (or carbon wrapped) rocket is high on my list of project to try.

this and other "carbon" threads has given me about all the inspiration i need to pull the trigger.

thank you for sharing
 
Any pictures of the sanding jig for the leading edges?

No, it doesn’t appear I do. I actually printed off about 5 different designs. It was pretty simple but did get the job done. It only sanded the last 0.625” of the bevel. Wasn’t designed to take a bunch off, just sharpen it a little and uniform them. I’ll see if I saved that CAD file and post of pic of that. Thanks!
 
a carbon (or carbon wrapped) rocket is high on my list of project to try.

this and other "carbon" threads has given me about all the inspiration i need to pull the trigger.
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Read up on Jim’s stuff, absorb other‘s techniques and then jump in! It’s a lot of fun. Things that made this rocket a little easier were using the Weblock carbon and using the slowest hardener. Also, getting the weights of all your components and then doing your fins last is a good idea in my opinion. I’ve kept notes on the added weight from the fin filets and carbon/epoxy for the T2T for 54mm and 75mm tubes so message me if you ever need those for modeling. Take your time and let us know how it goes!
 
My only comments are amazing engineering, amazing build work, and amazing result. Inspiration to many of us I suspect.
 
Here is the recovery configuration:

I'm using a couple spherechutes from Julie. 12" for the drogue and 72" for the main for cert flight. I'll likely just use my 66" (pictured) when flying 54mm motors. I got my harnesses from Teddy at One Bad Hawk. Love our vendors! Ended up using 28' on 1/4 tubular kevlar for the booster section (which barely fits!) and 8'-[piston]-10' for the main. The harness is amazing. Did a charge test and I think we're all good to go. In the gif its a touch much BP for the primary altimeter but about right for the backup.

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Have a 54mm 5grain K700 EX Red ready to fly if we get an opportunity. Hoping to fly it once prior to the cert flight and the M2245 whiplash. Have it ballasted back quite a bit to help with stability and altitude mitigation.
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Yeehaw!

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I haven't updated this is quite a while so here we go. I'm probably doing this more for myself than anything.

Last update was June 20, 2020. I had spent a pretty good amount of time on this project and it was finally complete. I was planning to fly it once on an EX motor that I've made and flown a pretty good number of times and felt comfortable with it. After that I wanted to head up to Argonia for the cert flight. The test flight was at our local AARG launch first weekend of July 2020. In short, cato happened and blew the fin can to bits. The rocket came down just fine under its chutes so the upper section, nose cone, chutes and electronics were all still okay. This was my first cato experience ever, EX, commercial or otherwise. Crappy time for it! Still not 100% sure what happened. Maybe a void in a grain.

So, this L3 cert attempt got shelved. Right about this time I moved into a new house that required a ton of my free time on various remodel projects so I wouldn't revisit this for some time. It was painful enough at the time that I just kind of lost interest in trying to roll more tubes and rebuild the fin can anyway.

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Well after a nice hiatus from this project and wrapping up some of the remodel, I jumped back in and finally rolled a new tube. I also tried a few new things with a CNC to make my beveled fins. I'll skip past all the other things because I just remade this one like the previous but it actually turned out much better than the original. I forgot to take pics after I put the cotronics on the leading edges.
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Fast forward to last weekend. The North Texas Tripoli guys put on a really rad event. Eric/Ray etc all worked really hard and nailed down a waiver of 32k for us. We did have quite a bit of wind to contend with but there were lots of adventurous fliers ready to go. I left Austin at 2:20am on Saturday morning and arrived at the field by 6:20. I had chatted with Jim Jarvis (as mentioned, one of my TAPs) the day before and with the wind predictions, we figured the best time to go would be as soon as the waiver opened. I had originally planned to do my cert flight with the M2245 IMax but it was sim'ing closer to 35k. I ended up going with the M840 (first time building one of these, kind of stressful). It was sim'ing to 28k, under the waiver. I was racked and ready to go by 8am and was the second flight of the weekend. Man, that M840 is pretty cool. Nice 9-10s burn. The rocket flew straight, lofted into the wind a little but miraculously landed just 1000' feet from us and very close to the pad. At one point it was about 7000' down range too. I still haven't downloaded the computers but GPS data says apogee of 28,181', roughly Mach 1.65. All in all, a perfect flight with one (very annoying) hiccup. It appears I didn't get any video. I have a 30 sec clip of me starring into the lens, looking confused and punching buttons on my phone. My guess is I turned it on and then accidentally turned it off. Oh well, I still have the M2245 and I'll be sure to have it work for that flight. As soon as I get my computers downloaded and get some photos together from Harry, I'll add those here. Thanks for following along! And big thanks to my TAPs Jim Jarvis and Stu Barrett!

Now its time to dig deep into the VOS project with Jim.

I thought I arrived too early but was greeted with this.
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I look happy but all I was thinking about was "Did I glue those M840 grains together correctly?".
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The flight. Still can't get over how lucky that was with the recovery. The wind was absolutely ripping at some altitudes.
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