I'm curious as to the specifics of the blade you destroy, and whether or not it was carbide-tipped.I destroyed a miter saw blade cutting FWFG tubes.
It was a blade intended for wood, not carbide-tipped. It came as part of a Stanley miter hand saw, with about a 16" blade.I'm curious as to the specifics of the blade you destroy, and whether or not it was carbide-tipped.
FWIW, that's why I have two blades for my miter saw -- the one that came with it (80 tooth, carbide-tipped), which gets used for rocketry and misc stuff, and the 96 tooth Freud which will only ever see trim, molding, and similar materials.
Good quality 12" miter saw blades gave me....sticker shock. :jaw:
I my old machinist days we used what was called a Radiac cutoff wheel. It is basically a large fiberglass Dremel wheel that came in 6, 8, and 10 in. diameters. It think I saw something similar at Home Depot in the grinding wheel section. You might want to give that a try. You could mount it to a circular, mitre or table saw.Why not fight fire with fire?
Use a fiberglass cutoff wheel from Dremel.
They cut through PR tubing like butter.
I'll be going past Harbor Frieght in a couple of days. Good suggestion.I
Finally, a Dremel with a diamond wheel will cut fiberglass like butter. Harborfreight sells a cheap pack of diamond disks that will fit a Dremel, just don't go over the max RPM rating (I don't trust anything from Harborfreight spinning at 10,000 RPM, and my Dremel goes up to 35,000 RPM). I usually can get very straight cuts once the wheel is plunged into the material, but if you are not happy with the result, the flat surface of the diamond wheel is great for sanding away any imperfections. Trust me, normal sandpaper will only be frustrating.