C J's Extreme DarkStar 4 Build [75mm]

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Now pull it smooth in 1 steady even pressure stroke. Keeping the same angle with your tool.

If you have low or missed spots, just add some more and pull it out again. The trick is to do it in 1 even pull. Not play in it or try to fix 1 spot.

If there is a goof, add, then pull the whole fillet out again.
 
When satisfied with you fillet job, go ahead and pull the tape off.

If the material was mixed to the right consistency, there should be no problem.
It should come off cleanly.

Make sure to pull the tape back on itself as shown so you don't get it in the fresh fillet.

You can see plainly I got lots of excess on the tape. but no worries. The tape is spaced right, so I have a nice clean edge with no lip. THAT"S the trick to it.

Once the tape is off, you can see how smooth it is.

Any questions so far?

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Looking good, i also do it that way after watching you do it like that in some previous thread :)
 
Well I finally got around to painting the neeked DS over the past week.

Rustoleum paints.... primer white, metallic blue & sunflower yellow. [No Tim, nothing to do with the "dress"]

Wet sanded and clear coated .

It's just waiting for me to apply the vinyl. Get around to that soon.

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Very nice. You should bring it to Airfest :D
 
Nice ,very nice ! Great looking paint job ,nice combo with the blue & yellow.

I use the exact same method of applying fillets ,and love using the colloidal silica....great stuff.

Sincerely

Paul T
 
C'mon! You're telling me you are the same guy that built this??? Or, is that dollar bill humungous?

Micro DarkStar.JPG
 
Yes it will fly at Airfest... on a L-2300 KBA.


And at MWP maybe in a drag race. If I can get some takers,maybe we will get Tim to come up with a deal on the motor!
Who wants in?

Airfest also ?

I think it was Cobalt Blue... it was the only blue they make it metallic if that helps.

Yes it 'tis I who also built these. 1 in every size that can fly on F's through P's ! [oops..... and micros]
Which by the way, even the big one [12inch] is now available as a Kit for those not weak of heart! Anyone want to drag race the big one?
Now that would be worth the price of admission!!!:clap::clap:

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Which by the way, even the big one [12inch] is now available as a Kit for those not weak of heart! Anyone want to drag race the big one?
Now that would be worth the price of admission!!!:clap::clap:


Ah man, now I gotta add another set of decals to my website... :y:

Looking good Jim.
 
And at MWP maybe in a drag race. If I can get some takers,maybe we will get Tim to come up with a deal on the motor!
Who wants in?

Yo Jim, I might be up for it depending on the motor deal and if I finish building in time :shock:

Nice paint work. Any tips for preventing blush while painting in the humid summer heat?
 
Nice paint work. Any tips for preventing blush while painting in the humid summer heat?

All painting, on this one,was done right on the concrete deck you see in picture, either in the sun or partial shade from tree.
I just put some newspaper down, and a cinder block over them to put rocket parts on, or get bottom of rocket high enough off the ground.

I have to deal with this all the time. [high humidity] What I do:

Paint late morning 10-12 or late afternoon 4-6.
The haze has burned off by then, or it's starting to cool down a bit. Stay out of the heat of the day. Parts are just to hot to paint.

In high humidity locations, it's at its worst early morning & evenings.

Put parts to be painted and the paint outside 15-20 minutes before starting to bring to ambient temp.
Putting rocket or paint that's been inside air conditioning is where some trouble can happen. The humidity wants to condense on the cool rocket or as you spray the cooler paint particles will transfer moisture in the air onto your finish. You can't see it but it's happening.

I would rather paint outside, in the sun, where it will cure and dry faster, than in a garage or building where moisture from high humidity [typically 85-95 where I live] has time to blush. Due to longer drying time in the shade.

Sometimes when temps reach 90-100, I'll paint in the shade, then move rocket into the sun to dry. But never move from inside to out during cure. [unless your in a garage or shed that's same ambient temp, no air conditioning] Moisture is always attracted to the cooler object.

I have had blushing begin, stopped painting, moved it into full sun and the sun burn it right out.

The only other major thing I do is:

After all my priming and prep.... I do 1 last light coat of primer. As soon as it's dry to touch [10-15] I hit it full on with finish coat. I have never had any blush on the 1st coat over primer, always when painting finish over finish.

Since you got to wait 24-48 hrs now with these re-formulated paints or re-coat in 1 hr. I'd rather save time and have some finish coat curing.

[If it's a 1 color job, you can get lucky and be finished first go round.]

THEN if it needs a little sanding you can see what you got and save a step or 2. I usually hit any rough spots with 600 wet and just clear coat it and be done.

If I do have any blush. STOP immediately and let it dry. Don't try to cover it up with more paint, only locks in more moisture making it worse.
Bite the bullet, put it in full sun. See what happens. If it disappears, continue on.
Worst case if you wait 45-50 minutes it's dry to touch, and you can still re-coat before deadline.
If the blush happens again. Just QUIT.
Some days you just ain't gonna win, pack it in and try later. No point in mucking it up.

This is for rattle cans.

If you doing automotive, chances are you got an inside setup and air conditioning so your good to go. I can't help you there.
 
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Yes it 'tis I who also built these
Ahem I thought you where just the sanding Bit$h on the big one .
Glad I didn't let you paint it . It would have been School bus yellow.
You are going to fly that with a Wimpdapter?
Thats against the Wildman oath.
Tim
 
How about a few darkstar dragraces at Midwest Power.

ALL sizes

Just finished paint on mine.

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Ahem I thought you where just the sanding Bit$h on the big one .
Glad I didn't let you paint it . It would have been School bus yellow.
You are going to fly that with a Wimpdapter?
Thats against the Wildman oath.
Tim


:headbang:
He still whats a flip out STOP sign for the side ( deployed at Apogee ) maybe a few RED LEDs for flashing. Sorry JIM, hahahaha
 
Finally got around to installing the vinyl over the weekend. So the DarkStar Xtreme is finally totally finished.

Came out pretty good, which usually means it will get torn up & disfigured cosmetically in 2 or 3 flights. Oh well, at least it looks good for the photo ops!

Get yours from our good rocket buddy Mark at StickerShock in any color that compliments your project!

Anyone got one going to Airfest want to play?

Same for Red Glare & Midwest Power?

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Looks great Jim, I just picked mine up last Saturday. I would like to think it would be ready for MWP8.... but I think thats more of a pipe dream at this point. How about a Darkstar (standard) race on a big ''J"
 
Finally got around to installing the vinyl over the weekend. So the DarkStar Xtreme is finally totally finished.

Came out pretty good, which usually means it will get torn up & disfigured cosmetically in 2 or 3 flights. Oh well, at least it looks good for the photo ops!

Get yours from our good rocket buddy Mark at StickerShock in any color that compliments your project!

Anyone got one going to Airfest want to play?

Same for Red Glare & Midwest Power?

Wish I could make it.. I really need to move back east you guys know how to do it!

She looks AWESOME Jim! good luck with it!
 
What size parachute are you using? I'm having trouble fitting mine in the payload tube.
 
Looks great Jimbob!:cool: So, does this mean you are going to Airfest INSTEAD of Freedom Launch?:eek::confused2::jaw::y::eyepop::mad::p

You got it!
Alot better waivers and if you want to launch it on a "M", thats not at Orangeburg.
 
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Yeah, I've got an 84" from K and S. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it all in there. I thought about cutting about an inch off the nosecone shoulder, and about 1.5" off the coupler. Ultimately, I think I'm just going to order a 30-36" tube and be done with it. :rolleyes:
 
Yeah, I've got an 84" from K and S. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it all in there. I thought about cutting about an inch off the nosecone shoulder, and about 1.5" off the coupler. Ultimately, I think I'm just going to order a 30-36" tube and be done with it. :rolleyes:

You might consider an appropriately sized Spherachute -- they pack very tightly (and may be cheaper than a 36" FG tube).
 
As someone already called it, it's a form of origami. Thing is, if an IT nerd (me) can learn to do it, anyone can learn to do it. You just need someone to teach you.

I'm no pro, but if anyone is going to be at AirFest and needs help learning to pack a parachute, come find me. I'll do what I can to help.

A rigger buddy (giggling the whole time) made me a deployment bag for a Rocketman R12 that slips easily into a 4" airframe, and is about 8" long. The parachute and lines easily fit into the bag, if it's packed properly. I take up the whole bag when I pack it; my buddy takes up about 2/3 of it when he does it.

Technique and practice are the keys.

-Kevin
 
I'm no pro, but if anyone is going to be at AirFest and needs help learning to pack a parachute, come find me. I'll do what I can to help.
Perhaps someone could video or photo document this session so your
technique could be shared broadly...
 
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