I'm very relieved to say that at least I got that part right.If it were me, I would have continued on my View attachment 460488 moment by putting the slant to the rear on the re-glue
-Bob
I'm very relieved to say that at least I got that part right.If it were me, I would have continued on my View attachment 460488 moment by putting the slant to the rear on the re-glue
-Bob
Everything is clearly marked so I can't possibly make a mistake.
Remember how I said up top that I labeled everything on the marking guide so I couldn't get anything wrong? That's called "foreshadowing".
You have a list of band names? You're welcome to mine, if you want it: Tin Whiskers.Definitely adding "Three Layer Shroud" to my list of band names, into a special category "Names that almost no one will understand".
Why does the BT60 not go all the way to the lower BT70 mounting ring? Is there a purpose to that gap?BODY TUBE ASSEMBLY
With the fin can finished, it's time to start assembling the body tubes... Glue is applied, and the BT60 is slid into place.
View attachment 459475
Confused, I am. Why does the loop come out of the nozzle?SHOCK CORD FIX
You can see that the Kevlar loop ends about 1/2" from the edge of the body tube, which is perfect. When I pulled it out the back of the rocket...
View attachment 459692
Figuratively speaking, yes. Doesn't everyone?You have a list of band names?
Where the two tubes join is arbitrary. Moving it forward pulls CG forward a bit and reduces the ejection charge volume. In hindsight, I should probably have pulled it farther forward, although then it would have caused me problems regarding your next question below.Why does the BT60 not go all the way to the lower BT70 mounting ring? Is there a purpose to that gap?
The Kevlar length is set so that it stops short of the end of the body tube, to avoid zippers. This makes it hard (not impossible, depending on the BT size, but hard) to attach the elastic. By pulling the Kevlar out the back, it's easy to attach the elastic, then you feed the whole thing back into the rocket. Also convenient when you need to replace the elastic.Confused, I am. Why does the loop come out of the nozzle?
Really? Based on the picture, it seems like you do.FINISHING THE AIRFRAME ASSEMBLY
View attachment 460070
I still don't have what I would call a good, repeatable way to smooth out those joints.
And there you have it.Several rounds of CA/sanding/CWF/sanding/more CA...
No, not really. Way too much repetitive work, inconsistent results.Caught up now.Really? Based on the picture, it seems like you do. And there you have it.
I didn't think it would be necessary on this rocket. Live and learn!Heck, if you send me a weight, I wound have printed the weight in it.
First, six identical(-ish) strake pieces were cut.
View attachment 460597
I doubt it could be made sufficiently liquidy to have flowed (flown?) into that mess, but I dunno. If it could, what would be the advantage over epoxy? I guess it's cheaper, not sure about the density.I've mentioned before, heating clay so it settes into the tip lf a nose cone. I wonder if it could be heated enough to be pourable and still be good when it cools.
No particular advantage that I can see really. Just musing.I doubt it could be made sufficiently liquidy to have flowed (flown?) into that mess, but I dunno. If it could, what would be the advantage over epoxy? I guess it's cheaper, not sure about the density.
Almost certainly my fastest build thread, but only because all the parts prep was done a year ago. All I’m doing here is assembling and finishing.Looking really good. It seems like this rocket went together quite quickly! Looking forward to seeing it with artwork.
Symmetry is over-ratedI like symmetry. Put the logo on both sides.
Only a little, if at all. If you turn off the CG and CP indicators it will look less so.If I put a logo on both sides, it starts to look a little crowded from above:
View attachment 462742
Go with both.Anyone have an opinion?
Obviously, Launcher X is a later version than Launcher One. It has bigger fuel tanks.[looking at the LauncherOne right next to my model makes my proportions look really off... probably could have looked a bit more accurate with BT55/60 instead of BT60/70... that's the last time I'll show the two of them together, I think]
Yes.I like symmetry. Put the logo on both sides.
Only a little.Symmetry is over-rated
I agree it's cool but that would have been incredibly tough to execute. I decided (and committed) long ago to follow something more akin to the current "real" paint scheme.I like symmetry so my vote is for both sides but I really think you need this on the bottom
View attachment 462841
You can do it and it's be awesome!
-Bob
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