Aventures of Tintin Rocket

[stardust]

Subject: Scratch build rocket project

I figured out how to make a tapered body tube and make this 1953 comic book rocket from, "The Adventures of Tin Tin."

Next...a 38mm powered 5.5" X-FLR6

I had a lot of fun scaling this from the attached copy from the page from the comic book . Additionally I used plans purchased from www.rogersrocketships.com.

Dan Winter, Wheat Ridge, CO

 

[kruland]

Subject: Scratch build rocket project

I figured out how to make a tapered body tube and make this 1953 comic book rocket from, "The Adventures of Tin Tin."

Next...a 38mm powered 5.5" X-FLR6

I had a lot of fun scaling this from the attached copy from the page from the comic book . Additionally I used plans purchased from www.rogersrocketships.com.

Dan Winter, Wheat Ridge, CO

Wow! That looks great! Can you share how you made the tapered body tube?

Thanks much for the link to Roger's Rocket Ships. I now know where my next paycheck is going
________
New Mexico Dispensaries

 

[stardust]

Wow! That looks great! Can you share how you made the tapered body tube?

Thanks much for the link to Roger's Rocket Ships. I now know where my next paycheck is going

Making the X-FLR6 Quick & Dirty

Step 1 get a picture of the project
2) decide the motor diameter ( 24mm)
3) make an orthographic view on paper using the size of BT80, tapering to aft end and nosecone included.
4) select from available nose cones for the size of body tube you want. ( BT80)
5) mark the tube at 90 degrees around the BT the full length of the tube.
6) determine diameter from BT80 down to 24mm engine holder
7) subtract diam. Of engine centering ring (24mm) from diam. Of BT80.
8) divide that sum by 4 and that gives the amount of BT material that has to be removed at each the end quarters to create taper.
9) on each side of 4 fin center lines at aft end put marks with a pencil each side of centerlines ½ the total sum from line #8. Shade it for clairity.
10) at one body tube diameter from the forward end of the BT or (the length of the shoulder of the nosecone) mark all the way around the tube.
11) draw with a straight edge from either side of the shaded quarters at the aft end, to where the fin centerlines intersect the forward circumfrial mark. This forms a long taper that is to be removed .
12) using rubber bands, close and super glue the four taper cutouts, use kicker. This will form a crude tapered body tube.
13) soak the whole affair aft of the forward circumfrial mark with water. When it is softened stuff the BT with crumbled up paper towls to form it round.Wrap rubber bands around it and and let the BT dry.
14) sand the crude joints and cover BT with 3 oz. satin weave glass cloth and laminating Areopoxy from Giant Leap,
15) sand and fair BT with thick epoxy and some type of filler(I use 3M Microbaloons) , put fins on and e sand and paint

 

[bradycros]

Making the X-FLR6 Quick & Dirty

Step 1 get a picture of the project
2) decide the motor diameter ( 24mm)
3) make an orthographic view on paper using the size of BT80, tapering to aft end and nosecone included.
4) select from available nose cones for the size of body tube you want. ( BT80)
5) mark the tube at 90 degrees around the BT the full length of the tube.
6) determine diameter from BT80 down to 24mm engine holder
7) subtract diam. Of engine centering ring (24mm) from diam. Of BT80.
8) divide that sum by 4 and that gives the amount of BT material that has to be removed at each the end quarters to create taper.
9) on each side of 4 fin center lines at aft end put marks with a pencil each side of centerlines ½ the total sum from line #8. Shade it for clairity.
10) at one body tube diameter from the forward end of the BT or (the length of the shoulder of the nosecone) mark all the way around the tube.
11) draw with a straight edge from either side of the shaded quarters at the aft end, to where the fin centerlines intersect the forward circumfrial mark. This forms a long taper that is to be removed .
12) using rubber bands, close and super glue the four taper cutouts, use kicker. This will form a crude tapered body tube.
13) soak the whole affair aft of the forward circumfrial mark with water. When it is softened stuff the BT with crumbled up paper towls to form it round and let the BT dry.
14) sand the crude joints and cover BT with 3 oz. satin weave glass cloth and laminating Areopoxy from Giant Leap,
15) sand and fair BT with thick epoxy and some type of filler(I use 3M Microbaloons) , put fins on and e sand and paint

Well, I guess if it was easy, everyone would be making one.

 

[stardust]

I added some pictures of how I made a long tapered bodytube for a retro 1950s
vintage rocket.

 

[Pem Tech]

Oh boy, that is rockin' cool.
More pics please, I gots' ta' know how it's goin'.

 

[bradycros]

What's going on in post #3, picture #2?

 

[SMR]

What's going on in picture #2?

Looks like he is cutting bands to hold the motor clips in place.

 

[Daddyisabar]

Dan – you’re then MAN! Have you figured out the slight aerodynamic wobble that occurred near the end of the low power flight? Or do rockets that look like bullets just tend to fly that way. The high power Tin-Tin Rocket will be a big hit, my neighbor says it is one of the best examples of Retro Art.

 

[bradycros]

Looks like he is cutting bands to hold the motor clips in place.

Is that what your doing?

 

[Sandy H.]

Looks to me like post #3 pic #4 has 2 rockets in it.

Sandy.

 

[stardust]

Is that what your doing Dan? In post #1, pic. #1, it looks like the rocket has room for one motor. In post #3, pic. #2, there's two motor tubes. What's the deal Dan? Spare motor mount? You just like making motor mounts? Your trying to confuse me on purpose with motor mounts?

I got 2 body tubes in a package...so two rockets. Pic 2 using ASPs 24to29 cardboard adapter to cut centering rings from. Kind of cobbled up the forward centering ring out of wet molded ASP adapter and epoxy.

 

[stardust]

Dan – you’re then MAN! Have you figured out the slight aerodynamic wobble that occurred near the end of the low power flight? Or do rockets that look like bullets just tend to fly that way. The high power Tin-Tin Rocket will be a big hit, my neighbor says it is one of the best examples of Retro Art.

How'd you know about that wobble during the coast phase!??? Under power of an E30 or E20 it flies straight and true. I built in a gentle spin on one of the models...Man I love watching it! Under the delay it wags it's tail. Possibly add .25" to the outside edge of each fin? Possibly a bit less weight in the nose...? I think low pressure builds in the aft 1/3 of the rocket at low speed? I would like any input before I build a 38mm version. I could not seem to do a sim on it...not saying much I just started playing with Ver.9+

The squares of red are banner red Krylon evenly sprayed on decal paper when dry cut out as needed. Wetted out and slid onto the rocket with a base coat of krylon gloss white. The rocket was painted painted with pure acrylic floor wax as an adhesive for the decal squares. It has had a lot of abuse and the decals have held up well.

 

[stardust]

I made the fins more like the cartoon pic. Rogers plan called for a slightly broader fin profile...

 

[bradycros]

Subject: Scratch build rocket project

I figured out how to make a tapered body tube and make this 1953 comic book rocket from, "The Adventures of Tin Tin."

Next...a 38mm powered 5.5" X-FLR6

I had a lot of fun scaling this from the attached copy from the page from the comic book . Additionally I used plans purchased from www.rogersrocketships.com.

Dan Winter, Wheat Ridge, CO

Could you do a detailed build thread when you upscale the X-FLR6 to 5.5"?

 

[legranddudu]

Well finally I am going to do it... a 7.5" diameter Tintin rocket... the parts are now on the way to me, thx Gary & Curtis again! I keep you updated as I progress..
Here some pictures from Rocksim...This is going to be a K-L hybrid bird...show time!

 

[Julian]

awesome! I love Tintin! and the FLR6

 

[TheTellurian]

I'm a fan of any retro rockets, Please post as you go.


Richard

 

[legranddudu]

Finally... beautifull parts arrived from US..now in my workshop, ready to start...thanks to Curtis & Gary @ Proline again for your help in this new unusual project...you guys are doing such a great job!
Here on the table from left to right the upper airframe being basically just a 7.5" NC 3:1, the 3 pods made out of 2 x 4" NCs each, one ogive and one elliptical and the lower airframe, another 7.5" NC in 5:1, cut for a 75mm motor, of course in my case a contrail hybrid, potentially a K888, we will see. I plan to build my fins in my usual technique: wood/foam/CF/FG sandwich to save weight with max rigidity...
Let's start ...there is a lot to do!

 

[legranddudu]

Well I am not sure if I shall continue to hjack this thread..but we speak about the same rocket..so here you go...progress & lovely rtocket porn in my cellar tonite...

1) cutting the fins

 

[legranddudu]

finishing the fins

I will as usual fill with foam and sandwich the whole with FG and CF

2) mark & cut the 7.5" airframe(s)

 

[legranddudu]

3) cut pods: basically 2 x 4" NCs from Proline with a small FG ring, cutted vertically

 

[legranddudu]

4) Now the exciting moment of the very first pictures of the moke-up



Thats it for today

 

[legranddudu]

Well I was dissatisfied during dinner...I could not really like the proportions of the pods compared to the original fantasy scale of the 50's...

SO.. I did it again... this time I sacrified my good old 5.4" 3:1 LOC NC... and it worked much better.. hier the pictures..now I need to order 2 more in USA...this is my solution..

 

[nh4clo4]

Looking good.

You may want to have a look at the short 4" nose cones by Madcow Rocketry. Only 9.5" long, they look like the original design.

This is what I used for mine.

https://www.madcowrocketry.com/product_p/pnc3.9aj.htm

 

[legranddudu]

Looking good.

You may want to have a look at the short 4" nose cones by Madcow Rocketry. Only 9.5" long, they look like the original design.

This is what I used for mine.

https://www.madcowrocketry.com/product_p/pnc3.9aj.htm

Thanks for the idea. In fact I need it larger in diameter, 5.5 or 6 but as short as possible... I will ask Mike @ madcow...

 

[Daddyisabar]

How'd you know about that wobble during the coast phase!???.

When you learn to quiet your mind you too will hear the midichlorians speaking to you during the meditative mind sim of the Tin-Tin flight. I see you have used the Force to later solve this problem, just as I foresaw. We will be watching these builds with much interest.

What is this, do I see Stardust finally pulling that big V2 Hybrid out to the pad?

 

[aerostadt]

I am puzzled by the tail cone in the picture (far let) of Legranddudu's first post. Is this a truncated nose cone or some kind of modified tube?

 

[nh4clo4]

Thanks for the idea. In fact I need it larger in diameter, 5.5 or 6 but as short as possible... I will ask Mike @ madcow...

Makes sense. I forgot your model is 7.5".... Mine was based on 6 inch tubing.

In that case the 5.5" short LOC nose cone is probably the best option, like you indicated earlier.

 

[legranddudu]

yep it is a truncated ogive from the magic kitchen of Curtis/GaryT, it is a 5:1 7.5", cut for a 75mm MM, the forward NC is a 3:1 all are FG/GC and not FW. For my modifications FG is much easier to work out (see my Kramer X4 thread...)

I am puzzled by the tail cone in the picture (far let) of Legranddudu's first post. Is this a truncated nose cone or some kind of modified tube?