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Are you going to paint it like TMV did his?
Does anyone have any actual launch data for the L2 with an Altimeter3 and it’s actual weight? I’d like to see how it compares with the altitude numbers given with the recommended motors, or what RockSim predicts.
Some things I did have to change in OpenRocket that didn't reflect the actual built rocket:
I bought this kit 8 years ago, and it's still i the package (lost my health) , although I did take it out and washed the parts last month, so I'm glad you started this thread. 4 hours build time? I was thinking 8 hrs. minimum
I didn't see any motor retainer used or mention of it?
That's a level 2 in my profile pic. She bested 10k at 93% of mach1 last MWP. Integrated the tailcone option, upgraded to the 22" mmt and extra centering rings to be able to handle the L1000W. Once I cert level 3, I plan to extend the length of the rocket and cram a Loki M1378LR in for good measure. Probably need to reinforce the fin can with some West epoxy to handle the stress. Here's the launch last year's MWP.
Hi Guys,
Tim’s Level 2 kit from Apogee is a great first fiberglass kit. I built one for my Level 2 rating a few years ago. You will see in Tim’s kit build videos that his first flight wasn’t successful. It is a credit to Tim that he didn’t edit the flight failure out of the video series.
The plywood altimeter sled and plywood battery box leave something to be desired. Tim’s battery box / wire connection failed. This prevented proper parachute deployment. You can purchase many printed sleds for the altimeter bay. Missile Works makes them for their entire product line. These printed sleds have built in battery boxes. Your altimeter will simply screw into molded mounting holes for a perfect fit.
While you don’t need a dual redundancy AV Bay setup for a Level 2 project, it‘s not a bad idea. There is plenty of room in the 4” Level 2’s AV Bay. Missile Works sells pre printed dual AV Bay sleds for their product line. Having a dual altimeter setup with dual switches, batteries, and ejection cups will help ensure you a successful Level 2 certification flight. It’s also great experience for when you want to move up to Level 3 certification.
Best of Luck,
Bob
Thanks for the suggestions Bob. Have been eyeing those Missile Works printed sleds for a while. Need to take another look at them.
Hi Guys,
Tim’s Level 2 kit from Apogee is a great first fiberglass kit. I built one for my Level 2 rating a few years ago. You will see in Tim’s kit build videos that his first flight wasn’t successful. It is a credit to Tim that he didn’t edit the flight failure out of the video series.
The plywood altimeter sled and plywood battery box leave something to be desired. Tim’s battery box / wire connection failed. This prevented proper parachute deployment. You can purchase many printed sleds for the altimeter bay. Missile Works makes them for their entire product line. These printed sleds have built in battery boxes. Your altimeter will simply screw into molded mounting holes for a perfect fit.
While you don’t need a dual redundancy AV Bay setup for a Level 2 project, it‘s not a bad idea. There is plenty of room in the 4” Level 2’s AV Bay. Missile Works sells pre printed dual AV Bay sleds for their product line. Having a dual altimeter setup with dual switches, batteries, and ejection cups will help ensure you a successful Level 2 certification flight. It’s also great experience for when you want to move up to Level 3 certification.
Best of Luck,
Bob
Might check out a T3 GPS too from missile works. I integrated 1 into my nose cone easily. Good thing too, that flight landed close to 3/4 of a mile from the launch pad.
Eric
Might check out a T3 GPS too from missile works. I integrated 1 into my nose cone easily. Good thing too, that flight landed close to 3/4 of a mile from the launch pad.
Eric
To reiterate and be more specific, my question was about a comparison of the actual altitudes versus the altitudes listed with Apogee’s recommended motors for the L2, and secondly in comparison with the simulation altitudes for the same motors with Apogee’s RockSim.I do all my sims in OpenRocket, and sometimes in RasAero depending on the rocket. But here are some numbers for my rocket vs actual flight data (recorded with a MissileWorks RRC3)
I800 Vmax: OR says 1,053', actual was 1,042'
To reiterate and be more specific, my question was about a comparison of the actual altitudes versus the altitudes listed with Apogee’s recommended motors for the L2, and secondly in comparison with the simulation altitudes for the same motors with Apogee’s RockSim.
If I was wanting know how good OR was, I would have asked on that thread. I do have OR on my computer but RockSim10 is a better design tool, especially with its sub-assemblies and up to date lists of rocket motors.
After months of not having the L2 in stock, I’m glad that Apogee now has it.
In the meantime I couldn’t wait for it to reappear so I ordered the Mad Cow 4” fiberglass Super DX3 with dual deployment. Except for the fins it will end up about the same, especially after a redesigned E-bay and payload bay airframe section.
I was inquiring if anyone had actual launch data for the L2 so that I could compare its actual launch performance with how my very similar Mad Cow Super DX3 will be performing with the same motors.
TVM’s videos on constructing a fiberglass rocket are great. Even his launch failure is instructive as a lesson that even rocket scientists need to have a launch checklist that includes making sure that all of the quick links are connected.
To reiterate and be more specific, my question was about a comparison of the actual altitudes versus the altitudes listed with Apogee’s recommended motors for the L2, and secondly in comparison with the simulation altitudes for the same motors with Apogee’s RockSim.
If I was wanting know how good OR was, I would have asked on that thread. I do have OR on my computer but RockSim10 is a better design tool, especially with its sub-assemblies and up to date lists of rocket motors.
Apogee's recommended motors are derived from Rocksim simulation, and the Rocksim rkt file is provided on the webpage. So, I would imagine they are the same, and you can verify for yourself since you have the software.
People get hung up on "actual" altitudes (there is no such thing, only measured altitudes) from 3rd parties. The Level 2 is a basic 4FNC rocket and any of the simulators will give you a good estimate of performance, if you do the sim correctly. What more is needed? Your simulation is far more reliable than anecdotes from random guys on the internet, where you know nothing about the their build, the mass, the motor variation, the weather, the launch site, etc.
From prior experience, I would say the altitudes given in Apogee's table are way higher than actuals I have seen. A quick check from the data I have from other birds shows a 20%-50% error in Apogee's tables.
In retrospect, I am surprised that TVM, a trained “rocket scientist“ would allow something this flimsy and unreliable as a critical part of the L2.The plywood altimeter sled and plywood battery box leave something to be desired. Tim’s battery box / wire connection failed. This prevented proper parachute deployment.
I looked into the pre printed sleds on Missileworks site that you mentioned. I love the idea of the ease and accuracy of using one of them in the future. I am wondering why they design them to hold a standard 9v battery? Isn’t such a battery considered inferior for more than a flight or two and should always be fresh? I prefer a 7.4v lipo to power my altimeters. I wish they’d print a sled for such a battery. I’d be curious to know how many of you actually use just a standard 9v for your flights?Hi Guys,
Tim’s Level 2 kit from Apogee is a great first fiberglass kit. I built one for my Level 2 rating a few years ago. You will see in Tim’s kit build videos that his first flight wasn’t successful. It is a credit to Tim that he didn’t edit the flight failure out of the video series.
The plywood altimeter sled and plywood battery box leave something to be desired. Tim’s battery box / wire connection failed. This prevented proper parachute deployment. You can purchase many printed sleds for the altimeter bay. Missile Works makes them for their entire product line. These printed sleds have built in battery boxes. Your altimeter will simply screw into molded mounting holes for a perfect fit.
While you don’t need a dual redundancy AV Bay setup for a Level 2 project, it‘s not a bad idea. There is plenty of room in the 4” Level 2’s AV Bay. Missile Works sells pre printed dual AV Bay sleds for their product line. Having a dual altimeter setup with dual switches, batteries, and ejection cups will help ensure you a successful Level 2 certification flight. It’s also great experience for when you want to move up to Level 3 certification.
Best of Luck,
Bob
I’d be curious to know how many of you actually use just a standard 9v for your flights?
Glad to hear. Sometimes simpler is better.I use them in all cases where weight or size is not an issue. They are not inferior whatsoever.
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