Aerotech Single Use High Power Rocket Motors

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Yeah, the instructions are super generic. My J250 was the same way. I just used a piece of blue tape since the whole cap concept was a dud. As long as that igniter is AAALLLLLLLLL THE WAY into the motor. you should be fine holding it there with tape. Just cover the hole with a small square. It's gonna get blown away and fried anyway.

Thanks.

I am gong to see what I can come up with. Since it has been shown to work, tape is certainly the right answer. It is not the exotic, needlessly complicated, and difficult to implement solution that I would prefer <smile>.

Exactly. A dowel is only necessary when it’s difficult to feed an igniter all the way to the top or when the weight of the igniter head cannot be supported by the wires, including upper stages where the igniter may be driven downward (relative to the motor) by inertia when the rocket accelerates upward.

Got it. Thanks.
 
This has been an interesting tread. I don't fly HPR, so I avoid responding in the HPR topic group. Nevertheless,...

There is an old anecdotal story about Alan Pope, a highly regarded aerospace engineer, who had or developed some experience igniting composite propellant motors. At some point the army or AF released a bunch of aging motors to other responsible organizations. The new users had some difficulty igniting them. Alan reasoned that the propellant needed both temperature and pressure to combust, so he started gluing a common jack ball from a kids toy set into the nozzle throat with rubber cement. This worked well and news spread. Some manager "down south" thought he had grasped the concept and he had a conformal aluminum plug machined to fit the nozzle. This was glued in place, and the motor CATOed on attempted ignition. The manager then decided enough was enough and he insisted on flying Alan Pope and an assistant down for a hands on demonstration. Alan explained over the phone how simple his technique was and that a trip was not necessary, but the manger insisted. So on their drive to the airport they stop at a Ben Franklin's store and bought some jack balls and rubber cement. And everything goes well from then on.

I have flown many Enerjet F67 and E24 motors, ignited electrically with the supplied long Sure-shot like igniter wick. I never had a problem and it was common practice to tape over the nozzle, or even form a cone of masking tape to fit the nozzle, I usually just tamped in a small ball of wadding like on an Estes motor. This caused no problems and seemed to avoid slow starts. The only problem was that it took a second or two for the wick to burn and start the motor. Around this time there were electric matches available that worked on lower current and I even used them to ignite F100 BP motors. I never tried them on an Enerjet motor. I was concerned that a piece of the igniter might jam in the throat and cause a Cato. At some point the NAR decided that the ignition delay was a safety concern and they had the NFPA codes changed to require more instant igniters.

Over the years, a number of composite motor manufacturers have come and gone, with their own igniters. I've always favored following the manufacturers instructions and using the supplied igniter. I have had some difficulty installing provided igniters in small AT motors with offset cores or slots, but they always worked. I confess that I was a little bemused when AT started to insist on cutting a vent in the nozzle cap, and even using a vent tube on the new Quest motors, but again, I prefer following the manufacturers instructions. I get concerned about adding dowels and bits that could potentially plug the nozzle, but it is hard to argue against them. I'm even concerned that long igniter leads could jam in the nozzle throat. I'd like to see head end igniters used, but that is not practical for the SU motors that I prefer. I understand that some motors are now supplied without igniters. I understand that many old reloadable grains should have their ignition surfaces sanded before use. And yes, I understand that we need to temper following the manufactures instructions with using techniques that have been proven to work. Again, I'm not an experienced HPR flyer, so take all of this with a grain of salt.
 
This has been an interesting tread. I don't fly HPR, so I avoid responding in the HPR topic group. Nevertheless,...

There is an old anecdotal story about Alan Pope, a highly regarded aerospace engineer, who had or developed some experience igniting composite propellant motors. At some point the army or AF released a bunch of aging motors to other responsible organizations. The new users had some difficulty igniting them. Alan reasoned that the propellant needed both temperature and pressure to combust, so he started gluing a common jack ball from a kids toy set into the nozzle throat with rubber cement. This worked well and news spread. Some manager "down south" thought he had grasped the concept and he had a conformal aluminum plug machined to fit the nozzle. This was glued in place, and the motor CATOed on attempted ignition. The manager then decided enough was enough and he insisted on flying Alan Pope and an assistant down for a hands on demonstration. Alan explained over the phone how simple his technique was and that a trip was not necessary, but the manger insisted. So on their drive to the airport they stop at a Ben Franklin's store and bought some jack balls and rubber cement. And everything goes well from then on.

I have flown many Enerjet F67 and E24 motors, ignited electrically with the supplied long Sure-shot like igniter wick. I never had a problem and it was common practice to tape over the nozzle, or even form a cone of masking tape to fit the nozzle, I usually just tamped in a small ball of wadding like on an Estes motor. This caused no problems and seemed to avoid slow starts. The only problem was that it took a second or two for the wick to burn and start the motor. Around this time there were electric matches available that worked on lower current and I even used them to ignite F100 BP motors. I never tried them on an Enerjet motor. I was concerned that a piece of the igniter might jam in the throat and cause a Cato. At some point the NAR decided that the ignition delay was a safety concern and they had the NFPA codes changed to require more instant igniters.

Over the years, a number of composite motor manufacturers have come and gone, with their own igniters. I've always favored following the manufacturers instructions and using the supplied igniter. I have had some difficulty installing provided igniters in small AT motors with offset cores or slots, but they always worked. I confess that I was a little bemused when AT started to insist on cutting a vent in the nozzle cap, and even using a vent tube on the new Quest motors, but again, I prefer following the manufacturers instructions. I get concerned about adding dowels and bits that could potentially plug the nozzle, but it is hard to argue against them. I'm even concerned that long igniter leads could jam in the nozzle throat. I'd like to see head end igniters used, but that is not practical for the SU motors that I prefer. I understand that some motors are now supplied without igniters. I understand that many old reloadable grains should have their ignition surfaces sanded before use. And yes, I understand that we need to temper following the manufactures instructions with using techniques that have been proven to work. Again, I'm not an experienced HPR flyer, so take all of this with a grain of salt.

Very interesting post. I enjoyed it.
My experience with the wedge shaped cuts in the red nozzle caps is that having the cap with a small cut helps the motor come to pressure quickly, but I have seen caps cut too open and pushed on too hard stick to the nozzle and affect the exhaust stream. It doesn’t take much to throw a rocket slightly off course. Of course the plastic melts quickly and the motor flies straight afterwards, but the damage has been done.
With no wedge cutout the caps pop right off with the pressure of the igniter, the igniter is spit out, and the motor either snuffs or fails to light.
I love the jack ball story. It makes perfect sense.
 
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Very interesting and enlightening reading for another non-HPR flyer, guess I’ll have to dip my toes in the water eventually...
 
These won’t last probably but they are cheap and easy to replace. I’d probably just use some dog barf or an ear plug myself but if you want something a little more involved then maybe get some of these to stick on the retainer plate.
 

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