110/220 Switch for ET Quantum

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gcanroc

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I'm setting up my Quantum for a cutoff switch between my Quantum flight computer and my deployment charge well as now required by Tripoli and I'm sure NAR. I purchased a switch from Doghouse Rocketry. Why the 110 vs 220 selection on my switch. Using a DVM and the continuity selection I've figured out how the switch works but I was just curious on why the 110/220 markings.

Geoff
 
The primary application for this switch is not rocketry, instead it is selector for voltage levels on small appliances, motors and other electrical equipment.
 
They're designed for switching electric appliances between 110 V and 220 V modes.

I recently purchased a Stratologger, and it actually came with a paper explaining a new feature it had. Apparently a large proportion of those 110/220 switches break, and when they do they have very bad failure modes, like having a high resistance when turned on (so your altimeter powers up but it's impossible to get enough current from the battery) or failing on no matter what. The only project I ever used them on, the switch broke mechanically and fell inside the av-bay. I'd advise using a different switch.

IMG_20200305_230655.jpg IMG_20200305_230325.jpg
 
Bummer I would have expecting better from Doghouse Rocketry...is there a switch you would recommend?? Also is the NRA requiring mechanical switches for all charge well deployment rockets??
 
Why would you "expect better" from them? These switches have been used successfully for a very long time. Tip: with a black sharpie, you can make the 110/220 into 1/0 for on/off markings.
-Ken
 
Why would you "expect better" from them? These switches have been used successfully for a very long time. Tip: with a black sharpie, you can make the 110/220 into 1/0 for on/off markings.
-Ken

...post #3 seems to suggest the 110/220 switch would not be the best choice for use in model rocketry.
 
I prefer keylock switches or screw switches (but mount the screw switch to the inside of the switch band, not directly to the sled. It makes it way easier to actually find the switch to turn on).

It's just personal preference though. If you want to use the 110/220 switch, go ahead. I just thought I should warn you that there may be some problems.
 
The rotary switches work just fine. As I found out with terminal blocks, there are quality electrical components from Mouser and Digikey, and then there is Chinese crap sold on Amazon. I suspect the ones that "fail" my be of inferior quality, or the user simply manhandles them.

Also, see the 1000-post long thread on Tripoli switch rules to find out everything you want to know. Or, not know. NAR made a recommendation, not a rule.
 
Its a Schurter rotary switch. If you get a cheap knock-off, they fail early and often and in bad ways. If you get a quality one, they're rock solid and nothing to worry about.
 
I have used the Dog House switch on many rockets and have had no failures to date with it. Also on the 1000 post thread, I asked if these switches would be considered "legal" Steve replied "yes". FYI
 
I've had 3 Schurter switches fail. Their reliability is variable at best. These switches were not built to tolerate the stresses of HPR flights. If you've drilled the hole(s) already, then consider the additive aerospace screw switch in the 3 D printed enclosure which readily adapts to the hole drilled for the Schurter switch. If not already drilled, then consider the fingertech switch or an omicron snap switch (which tolerates 10,000 on/off events vs. the only 300 events for the Schurter switch). Finally, unless you are going for a cert flight, or your club has specific new rules about the need for a mechanical switch in addition to the Quantums wifi switch, I wouldn't worry about a second switch. I've just purchased 2 quantums and additional wifi switches which I intend to use on non-cert flights. Good luck.

Fred, L2
ICBM, Camden, S.C.
KG4YGP
 
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