Odo,
For my best results, I am using Rustoleum Filler Primer as a basecoat (I'd suggest you pick a brand, and stay with it, as X may go over Y, but Y might not go over X). Filler Primer is extra thick, and fills those spirals that are formed when the tubes are wound. Get yourself some 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit *WET/DRY* sandpaper. When normal sandpaper gets clogged, it's finished. With wet/dry, you can "wash" out the clog (I like to use a nail brush, or an old toothbrush), and reuse it. I cut my paper into 8 pieces, and I like to do most of the 5 sheet pack. When one piece gets clogged, grab a fresh one, when that gets clogged, grab a fresh one... no more fresh sheets? Rinse and repeat. I save one sheet of the 320 for my sanding block.
I sand my (Estes blowmolded) plastic nosecones lightly with 220 to get rid of the seam, then do the entire exposed nosecone until I can't see any gloss. I next go over it with 320. I usually start at the seam where the shockcord/parachute attachment point is, and work clockwise around the cone. Next, it's 400 grit, and last comes the 600 grit. I like to polish the nosecone off with some toothpaste (if nothing else, I get that nice minty flavored nosecone).
For my best results, I paper my fins. I take the shaped balsa fins, and draw an outline of it onto some printer paper. I give the printer paper a heavy coat of Avery permanent glue stick glue (available at office supply stores). Then put the fin down, and cut it out. A thin coat of glue may not stick well, and you get bubbles under the paper (get that, and you need to remove it and try again (it won't be pretty, but patience and sanding sealer should get things 'acceptable'). I push out the wrinkles and then do the opposite side immediately (prevents them from warping). Seal the edges with thin CA glue (except for the root).
After gluing on the fins, filleting them (go with epoxy and save yourself some grief), and allowing them to dry/cure, it's time for primer. Go and spray the primer on with a heavy coat. You need the heavy coat to fill the spirals. The primer will also expose any areas that you need to fix before you put on your color coat. Allow the paint to dry, and sand until it's smooth (seems like 320 grit's a good one for this). Recoat the rocket as necessary to get the spirals filled, and sand until you're happy with the look. Apply a base color primer (I recommend flat white). Don't forget to use a damp lint free cloth to get the dust off between coats.
If your body tube is the same color as the nose cone (other than a really dark color like black or midnight blue), I recommend that you prime the nosecone with the filler primer too, as this will help you find/fill any imperfections you may have missed (eg. tiny holes). After sanding the nosecone down too, a base coat of primer goes on.
You must read your paint instructions... if it says top coat can be applied within 20 minutes, or after 24 hours, they really do mean it. After my SNAFU with one of my builds, I like to wait at least 48 hours after the white primer before I paint again. If it's cold out, and the paint is cold too it can come out 'sandy/gritty'. You can warm it by filling a large cup (say a 7-11 Double gulp) with hot water, and float the paint (nozzle end up) for a few minutes (dry it carefully). Windy? Wait for a calm day, or go into the garage when the car isn't there, and paint while the door is open.
A 7/8" dowel does a nice job as a paint wand (D/E engines), for 18mm engined rockets, I glue an old 18mm engine to a 1/2" dowel . I don't like rolled newspaper, as it can "break" and allow the model to droop into something and mess up a perfectly good paint job.
Paint in long strokes, and lightly. Your first passes should be barely visible, don't try to get the final color in one pass, you'll get drips/runs. Using the paint wand slowly spin the rocket to keep things even. Then find a place where you can set the wand down and not have the rocket get bumped until it's dry.
Flat colors look smooth, but have a texture to them that will prevent your decals from properly adhering to them, so use gloss colors, or a glossy coat (future/pledge floor 'wax') to get the best from your decals. Then seal them after they dry. I've heard that Krylon now has a "hot" formula which isn't the best to go over decals. I'm avoiding it, and I'd recommend that you do as well.
I know that this seems like a lot of steps, and actually there are more needed to get that $100 paint job, but this should get you started. Search painting techniques and you'll see some really stunning work out there
All the Best!
Jim
.
I have been gravitating to Rustoleum 2x like other have said here. I'm impressed as to the coverage. To start all you need is the paint. The colors are glossy enough by themselves to start.
