Snag on a D15 RMS

Hello all, I need advice.
I always wrestle with 24MM reloads. It is always a challenge to center the grain & liner to facilitate
Screwing on the forward & rear closures.
I always clean the casing with CPL that I use on my weapons & if the inside of the casing feels dry I will
spread a thin coat of the CPL inside the casing.
Tonight when I inserted the grain and liner, the liner grabbed like a coupler with wood glue (even with the CLP). It was in and almost centered in the casing.
Well to make a long story short, after much wrestling ans some banging I was able to screw both closures onto the casing.
The problem is that the forward closure did not screw all the way, close, but no cigar. And I used a pair of pliers, hence scratched off finish on the forward closure.
Please look at the images, and let me know if this is a GO to launch.
Also, I am thinking of using a Bluing Pen for firearms to cover the scratched of finish. Does anyone have a better idea, or is it necessary to cover over the scratches?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Nick V.

Forward must be all the way seated. Loosen rear until forward seats. It's ok for rear to be on as far as it will go. If you can't do this try reversing ends.

jimzcatz said:

Forward must be all the way seated. Loosen rear until forward seats. It's ok for rear to be on as far as it will go. If you can't do this try reversing ends.

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Hello Jim, I can not switch ends, because the liner will not budge, I can only slide the grain inside the liner. I will try it again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

I think I just ruined a 24/40 RMS! I tried to take the forward closure with the only outcome was a severely gouged closure! Then I unscrewed the rear closure and the nozzle would not come off and actually broke off. Now what do I do? This was not my 1st rodeo, but my 1st D15 reload. Any suggestions.

The issue is proper liner length, not the D15T reload per say.
The same D15 liner is used in the E28 and the F39, not to mention the E18 and F24.

John

In my experience with the 24MM reloads, i need to peel one or two layers of paper off the outside of the liner to get them to fit in the case with out binding up. Same for the nozzles, i usually have to sand those a bit to get them to fit properly in the case. As for what to do about your stuck liner and nozzle, if you can get the forward closure off, (wrap it with several layers of masking tape and use a pair of small channel lock pliers to get her to turn) use a large wooden dowel to force out the grain and nozzle from the forward end. If your lucky all you will do is add charecter to your case

I have 3 24/40 cases never had to sand a nozzle to fit, or peel a grain liner yet to get to fit. I can see the need to peel the grain liners once in a while, but sanding the nozzles does not sound right. Could be the case is out of spec. especially if you have to peel liners and sand nozzles every time. First thing to do with any RMS reloads is check to make sure the liner slides easily into the case. OP, you should never have to wrestle with your reloads to get them in the proper position. If your wrestling with them the liner is to tight.

Thanks for all the helpful advice everyone. I wrapped some masking tape around the forward closer and used my channel lock pliers. The pliers ripped off 4 layers of Masking tape, I then used a masking & duck tape And it finally came off. I could not get the delay grain out so I went to work on the nozzle. I was able to get it even with the end of the casing. Then I used a small screw driver, putting the head in the opening of the nozzle at an angle and prying it off that way. I gotta go cook dinner, but I will mess with the delay grain after dinner. Thanks Y'all again.

You might be able to push the delay out from the powder well using compressed air from an aircompressor with a rubber tipped blowgun.

TALON said:

Thanks for all the helpful advice everyone. I wrapped some masking tape around the forward closer and used my channel lock pliers. The pliers ripped off 4 layers of Masking tape, I then used a masking & duck tape And it finally came off. I could not get the delay grain out so I went to work on the nozzle. I was able to get it even with the end of the casing. Then I used a small screw driver, putting the head in the opening of the nozzle at an angle and prying it off that way. I gotta go cook dinner, but I will mess with the delay grain after dinner. Thanks Y'all again.

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I am 99% sure that this brand new 24/40 RMS Set was out of spec from AT. I went and got another nozzle out of the pack. And tried to fit it in the new casing, it didn't fit! I went and tried it in my other 24/40 case and IT FIT!! So I am good to go at tomorrows launch. I will contact AT about this issue.

TALON said:

I will contact AT about this issue.

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Best thing to do. Show them your pics. also. I have 1 old casing with the gold lettering and 2 of the new ones. All liners and nozzles used so far fit great, slide right in all the casings with no effort to do so what-so-ever.

as for the forward closure, as long as the threads are good and it isn't distorted, it will work just fine. I have a 29/40-120 that looks a lot worse than yours.

You are right about the case being out of spec, or at least at the small side of the tolerance. I have a 38/480 case that is the same way. The tolerance on the liners also makes a difference. Most liner fit in the 38/480 fine, snug but fine. The are some that just won't fit and require sanding to get them to go in. I bought a new 38/480 case for use with liners that won't fit in the old one because I got tired of sanding the phenolic liners.

With the hobby line motors, pealing the outer layer of paper off the liner is quick and easy and works just fine.