School me on 1010 rails

so I am one of those guys that just likes to build stuff. when it comes to ground support equipment I like to fab what I can and make it look "cool" in the process.

question around 1010 rail. I am just getting back into this and never flew off a rail before. in looking at whats on the market, it looks quite expensive for what it is.

my question, is the 1" X 1" T-Slot 10 series aluminum extrusion sold by Grainger, 80/20 and even Amazon the same as the launch rail sold by companies like Giant Leap? if so, score!

thanks!

I don't k now what GLR sells (they don't mention if it is aluminum or steel or what), but the rails you are describing will work fine. The more important part of your launcher will be the base, which is what will keep it from falling over.

Doghouse Rocketry (aka Binder Design) sells rail stops.

Great!

Already have ideas to fab an adapter for this pad using some 3/4” square steel tube

All the 80/20 (maker) 1010 rail (refers to size) is aluminum. I've bought 80/20 stuff from Grainger (one right near my house that I can just pick stuff up instead of paying shipping), Amazon, and 8020.net. I don't build rockets anymore that use a rod, everything goes off rails. There are even mini-rails for smaller model rockets.

I back the rail with a 1/2" to 1" steel pipe from Home Depot, depending on what rockets it will be used for. The extends enough past the end to form the mounting point of the rail into the stand.


Tony

yea, there is a Grainger near my office so I can also save on shipping. Love that!

Thanks all

Tony could you illustrate how you back the rod with the pipe?

manixFan said:

All the 80/20 (maker) 1010 rail (refers to size) is aluminum. I've bought 80/20 stuff from Grainger (one right near my house that I can just pick stuff up instead of paying shipping), Amazon, and 8020.net. I don't build rockets anymore that use a rod, everything goes off rails. There are even mini-rails for smaller model rockets.

I back the rail with a 1/2" to 1" steel pipe from Home Depot, depending on what rockets it will be used for. The extends enough past the end to form the mounting point of the rail into the stand.


Tony

Click to expand...

BigRiJoe said:

Tony could you illustrate how you back the rod with the pipe?

Click to expand...

This is an 8' rail meant for larger rockets, it has a 1" pipe backing it. I've used from 1/2" to 1" pipe depending on use. There are 3 bolts altogether. The handles are threaded 1/4 x 20, I used threaded rod cut to length. The nuts are standard 1010 rail nuts, The handles make it easy to adjust how far the pipe extends beyond the end of the rail.

I used handles like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GORWKB0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The nuts came from Grainger. The black thing on the right is a stop, but I don't think they are made anymore.


Tony

That's a rattworks stop, IIRC.

manixFan said:

This is an 8' rail meant for larger rockets, it has a 1" pipe backing it. I've used from 1/2" to 1" pipe depending on use. There are 3 bolts altogether. The handles are threaded 1/4 x 20, I used threaded rod cut to length. The nuts are standard 1010 rail nuts, The handles make it easy to adjust how far the pipe extends beyond the end of the rail.

I used handles like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GORWKB0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The nuts came from Grainger. The black thing on the right is a stop, but I don't think they are made anymore.


Tony


View attachment 368901 View attachment 368902

Click to expand...

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I should say I original drilled the holes through the pipe with a hand drill. Needless to say the alignment improved tremendously once I got a drill press. You can buy handles with 1/2" x 20 bolts built in, but buy making my own I could more carefully control how far the bolt protrudes into the channel and prevent it from bottoming out and damaging the rail.

It's also a good idea to coat the rails with something that provides slickness as well as some protection. Lots of folks use WD-40. I use a dry lubricant meant for firearms. The sooner you clean them after a launch the more crud you'll get off.


Tony

McMaster-Carr has all the t-nuts to mount a stop, handle, etc. They carry threaded knobs, so do the Woodcraft stores. You can make a rail stop from a slice off the end of a stick of metal angle or thick AL angle.

I have a titling pad with an 6' 1010 rail made by the late Lester Sherman of MDRA.
I took an 8' 1515 rail added some 1010 AL rail guides bolted at the bottom and 5' up. It slides right on it and it will launch a 30lb K rocket and my 7.5" V-2, no problem.