But then you have to use more of the finer grade to buff out the canyon walls. They screw you at the drive thru! BTW, the imitation sandpaper at the dollar stores use an inferior grade of adhesive and garnet 'spoils'. Okay for the home sheet rock one snd done projects and I do use it everyday on rough projects. Save yerself a little grief and 15 sheets of the cheep stuff and go with 3m or other. NOT starting glue thread!Using coarser sandpaper at first saves a ton of fine sandpaper.
What is this flexible stuff of which you speak? The kind that comes with the foam rubber backing?The flexible type is nice to use instead of the normal stiff backing.
+1 whut Steve sez! You wouldn't believe the chaps I've seen piling thru stacks or 800 when they need 60. Take notes, there WILL be a test.Using coarser sandpaper at first saves a ton of fine sandpaper.
@Steve Shannon+1 whut Steve sez! You wouldn't believe the chaps I've seen piling thru stacks or 800 when they need 60. Take notes, there WILL be a test.
Buy some 80, 100, 120 and a scraper.@Steve Shannon
I have to admit that my “go to” grits of sandpaper are:
180: Never use it. Should I?
220: Quickly reshape or grind down something, like a centering ring that is too big.
320: Use if I am scared to use 220 because 220 might sand too fast.
400: General purpose sanding, especially to get off heavy layer of wood filler. Also, Dry sanding (first pass) on the primer coat.
600: Finish sanding, to get smooth finish. Will use to wet sand the already dry sanded primer coat to a smooth surface for painting.
800: Never use it. Should I?
At least it is not a glue thread!A sandpaper thread!!
I have similar standards. . I try to fill the balsa and get the tube spirals out, but, I just don’t have the patience to wet sand 10 times. If it looks good and shiny from 10 feet away, mission accomplished.my standards require it to look good from the flight line.
cloth backed sandpaper, very durable and long lasting,What is this flexible stuff of which you speak? The kind that comes with the foam rubber backing?
At least it is not a glue thread!
I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074NJ24D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1What is this flexible stuff of which you speak? The kind that comes with the foam rubber backing?
Oh fine...In LPR I seldom find a need for anything coarser than 220. Certainly, I would never touch balsa with coarser than 220, unless the objective is to convert the wood into sawdust as quickly as possible.
I use 220 for rough shaping, and initial removal of heavy primer or CWF layer. Then 400 for finish sanding. I also use 400 to shape the edges of balsa fins. Basswood can take 220.
I use 800 for smoothing the glued edges of my label-papered fins, because I've found it is the coarsest, I can use that won't easily ruin the surface of the paper if I get careless.
So... Marvin is ...Once in while, you can wash your sponges. Just soak and let dry. They'll be as good as new again!
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I don't know if anyone else does this, but after trying it a few months ago, it seems to work for me.
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