I ordered from Buffalo the day this post came out and have had it since Friday I think. I was surprised it came so fast.
(1) E-Match location . . . On top is best, because an E-Match on the bottom can cause the powder to be ejected from the Charge Holder, before it is fully ignited.
Red cover? So you are referring to motor ejection? I don't understand the question. If you remove the cover, then all of the powder falls out all over the place.Kind of off topic but- do you leave the red "cover" on or remove it? Now I know why one of my bulkheads seemed to have powder burns on it. Not residue, it looked like ignited spilled powder.
Sorry about that. The ematches I use have a red plastic "cover" (poor term, it's open ended) over them (I think most do but I only use one brand). I have always removed it but always only means recently, like my first dual deploy launch was last weekendRed cover? So you are referring to motor ejection? I don't understand the question. If you remove the cover, then all of the powder falls out all over the place.
e-match head shroud.Sorry about that. The ematches I use have a red plastic "cover" (poor term, it's open ended) over them (I think most do but I only use one brand). I have always removed it but always only means recently, like my first dual deploy launch was last weekend
Interesting. I never would have considered that because A) I would have assumed that it would melt and stick all over my bulkhead, and B) I don't have room in my charge well for the extra bulk.The red shroud on an ematch protects the head of the match from accidental ignition from friction as well as directs the flame in the same direction. I know it is common practice to slide the shroud out if the way, but it is best to leave it in place.
The red shroud on an ematch protects the head of the match from accidental ignition from friction as well as directs the flame in the same direction. I know it is common practice to slide the shroud out if the way, but it is best to leave it in place.
Interesting. I never would have considered that because A) I would have assumed that it would melt and stick all over my bulkhead, and B) I don't have room in my charge well for the extra bulk.
Got a picture of a loaded well with the caps on? I'm curious. Thanks.
Out of curiosity....for DD purposes what is the difference between 3F and 4F?
3F grains are slightly larger, so they need to be compressed more.Out of curiosity....for DD purposes what is the difference between 3F and 4F?
Out of curiosity....for DD purposes what is the difference between 3F and 4F?
I think this is key. At BALLS this year I wanted to fly three fairly high performance MD rockets, a 54mm, 75mm, and a 98mm. I had all of them 'mostly' prepped, or so I thought. Each one was set up completely differently for recovery, as they were built at varying times in my 'career'. Partly because of that, it took a lot longer than it should have because there was very little consistency between the prep. In the end I only flew 2 of the rockets because I was just not happy with how the third was set up. I've decided to mostly start over with a lot of my better rockets and set them all up basically the same way.I think the lesson here for anyone reading who is new to dual deployment is -- many people do it differently, but whatever way you choose, do it consistently.
I believe that both Pyrodex and 777 have been "optimized" to use the fuels and oxidizers present in each formula efficiently. I think if you tip the scales lean or rich in regards to fuels or oxidizers you will see a reduction in performance.(1) E-Match location . . . On top is best, because an E-Match on the bottom can cause the powder to be ejected from the Charge Holder, before it is fully ignited.
(2) "Speed" of Pyrodex / 777 . . . Could it be "speeded up" by adding an additional Oxidizer or a Catalyst ?
Dave F.
Out of curiosity....for DD purposes what is the difference between 3F and 4F?
I believe that both Pyrodex and 777 have been "optimized" to use the fuels and oxidizers present in each formula efficiently. I think if you tip the scales lean or rich in regards to fuels or oxidizers you will see a reduction in performance.
For those of you still looking, I found a supplier that will sell and ship 1 lb of Swiss 4FG.
https://www.addictedtoblackpowder.com/
Will do! Talked to the guy and didn't even think of that until just now.Let us know if that arrives. The website is sketchy.
Will do! Talked to the guy and didn't even think of that until just now.
Got the tracking number same day as payment, so we should see in just a few days
For those of you still looking, I found a supplier that will sell and ship 1 lb of Swiss 4FG.
What all did they have and how much did you have to order?Will do! Talked to the guy and didn't even think of that until just now.
Got the tracking number same day as payment, so we should see in just a few days
Jeez O Peets! That's 3x the product cost in hazmat shipping alone. Having a ball mill, that pound equivalent would have cost me about $2 in chems and my homemade willow or ERC charcoal. Perhaps an hour of hands-on time weighing, milling, mixing, granulating, screen-sizing. Decades of ejection charges. Or a slow evening lifting shells in fireworking... It's both cathartic and rewarding. And inexpensive.Shipping was $60 to California. I also paid via PayPal, but they are an authorized dealer for Schuetzen which is how I found them. I was looking for 4FG specifically so didn’t ask about much else. Ordered just a pound.
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