Just printed the 3-in and 4-in versions. They look great. Ty
3D Printing What Are You Printing Today?
- Thread starter DRAGON64
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I've designed the parts of the sounding rocket Honest John-Nike-Nike-Hydac.
These are set to scale wherever possible.
The Hydac is BT-50 based. The Nike BT-60. The Honest John booster is BT-70 based (not shown).
All parts printed on an Ender 3 Pro.
Hydac nose cone and fin can:
Nike-Hydac Adapter:
Nike fin section parts:
Nike fin can assembled just like the original:
These are set to scale wherever possible.
The Hydac is BT-50 based. The Nike BT-60. The Honest John booster is BT-70 based (not shown).
All parts printed on an Ender 3 Pro.
Hydac nose cone and fin can:
Nike-Hydac Adapter:
Nike fin section parts:
Nike fin can assembled just like the original:
This morning, I finished a nosecone ebay sled and threaded ring for a Estes Doorknob. This is for a club member at CRASH. As a bonus, I printed him a nosecone with the ring integrated.
I have been doing a lot of larger prints since I got my QIDI Xmax3. Here are 2 estes upscales. The parts picture is the Fatboy (completed in the other image). And then a big daddy. Both printed from ASA (mostly, a little ABS when I ran out and was waiting for more). Both use a scaled version of the IPL nosecone ebay insert (and I just finished my quasar so both can have electronic deployment and tracking). They are both based on a 6 inch Uline shipping tube. Fat boy has a 54 mm mount, and just for fun big daddy has a 75 mm mount (a 3 inch Uline tube). I used a piece of that 3 inch tube in both nosecones with a centering ring so that I could use a smaller ebay (didn't need something 6" in diameter to unscrew). Fatboy will fly this weekend, probably starting with an I300, maybe a J350. Big daddy is currently being assembled. I have made plenty of high power stuff with printing, but never this large, so I guess we will see how I holds up. The fins are all printing with 4 perimeters and 30% cubic infill. I print them standing up with the layer lines mostly aligned with the leading edge.
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Thoughts on the machine? I'm wanting a large volume machine, and not sure that I want to wait for Bambu to get it's act together and make one.
Honestly I am a fan. I got it thinking I wanted to print more 'exotic' materials, but honestly just being able to print ASA, ABS and PC flawlessly has made me wonder if I really need CF or GF filaments. The heated chamber is absolutely a game changer. It's not perfect, but once you get it setup well it just prints. I do generally use some nano polymer glue every 10 prints or so to make sure I don't have to worry about adhesion. The QIDI print software is just modified prusaslicer, or you can use orcaslicer with no issues. It does use a funny size nozzle, but there's 3rd party options (I have a ruby tipped 0.6 that works well). The wifi dongle it comes with sucks, but you can replace it with a TP link nano for 15 bucks and its plug and play. There's no camera either, but it has a USB port open and I just added a Walmart ONN camera for $20 and again all plug and play. Some people don't like the dry box on the back, but I have my machine on a table in my office with the side against the wall so its easy to get to and works well for me. It will shake a ton so you need a very stable platform. And it's giant and heavy (though my wife still approved). And support is good. You have to wait for Chinese business hours to hear back, but they are prompt and will send replacement pieces if you need them.
rail guides
NateB
Well-Known Member
I printed a 4" Nosecone Bay from Inverted Pursuits Lab on Printables for a T-Loc 4. This 5 walls with basic PLA, but I might make another with PETG before glue it in the nosecone.
That IPL nosecone ebay is so good. I have printed it at multiple scales, and it's currently in like 5 of my recent rockets. Even used a modded version in my recent 6" collection. It's quite stout. I print in ABS or ASA and it seems super solid to me. Scaled down for a 3" nosecone its still just long enough for an egg timer quasar.
Very nice.
I printed V10 of my Mach Buster tail cone and nose cone. I am trying to get it perfect - may that is the enemy.
I couldn't agree more. For the rockets I design, it's integrated into the nosecone. I have systematically retrofitted the nosecone with it. I love that I can pull the sled out of one and move it into another (of the same size). It's a great design!
For the past few months, I've been working on a series of BT60 rockets called the Extreme Series. Today, I released the first builder's kit on Printables for the Red Max. It is a reproduction of the original Der Red Max but with a 29mm MMT and incorporates the nosecone ebay that I adapted from IPL. I flew it last Saturday at one of our club launches and it tore off out of sight on an E-16. I really love these models. I am working on a nosecone that will accept an Eggtimer Quasar GPS tracker.
Link to Printable's Red Max Extreme
Red Max and Goblin - Extreme
Link to Printable's Red Max Extreme
Red Max and Goblin - Extreme
Would love to see video of that E-16 launch!
I shot it on my phone but it didn't turn out. I have one of my Nike Smoke Extreme on the same motor. I'll do a quick edit and put it up soon!
One of my Extreme builders kit, the Nuke Dukem, was finished but my son asked for a printed body tube. It turned out better than I expected. I'll be adding these as an option. This kit will be available soon.
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Here's a quick video of the Nike Smoke Extreme launch. It was primer grey during the video so it easily got lost in the sun, but I spotted it before it landed.
That was an awesome boost! Very cool! 
Thanks for posting that!
Thanks for posting that!
Cross post but I wanted to share the Nike Smoke Extreme in her ball gown.
NateB
Well-Known Member
I printed the 4" IPL nosecone bay in PETG and it turned out great.
I printed out a 3" remix to stick in a another nosecone and it didn't come out so well. Same slicer settings, same filament, same gluestick reapplied to the build plate. The first layer of the threaded coupler had some stringing problems and poor layer adhesion. The base with sled printed perfectly, on the same plate at the same time. Both parts are usable though.
I reprinted the coupler, upside down so the threads were up thinking the issue may have been bed adhesion on the first layer. This part had worse stringing and even with the strings cut out, the sled will not thread into it.
These are the first times I have tried PETG with my A1 Mini. I might print them with PLA to see if the issue is the slicer settings or some other mistake I'm making with this filament.
I printed out a 3" remix to stick in a another nosecone and it didn't come out so well. Same slicer settings, same filament, same gluestick reapplied to the build plate. The first layer of the threaded coupler had some stringing problems and poor layer adhesion. The base with sled printed perfectly, on the same plate at the same time. Both parts are usable though.
I reprinted the coupler, upside down so the threads were up thinking the issue may have been bed adhesion on the first layer. This part had worse stringing and even with the strings cut out, the sled will not thread into it.
These are the first times I have tried PETG with my A1 Mini. I might print them with PLA to see if the issue is the slicer settings or some other mistake I'm making with this filament.
First of all.welcome to the IPL Nosecone Ebay club.
I had issues with internal threads and there may be lots of things to fix but slowing down the print helped pit a stop to that. Give it a try.
ljwilley
I’m pretty sure it will work…
+1 on that!
X 3.
dr wogz
Fly caster
sled for new rockets.. (hopefully in time for LDRS..)
NateB
Well-Known Member
I slowed down the print by 50% and still have stringing on the first several layers printing those internal threads.
I sliced it again for PLA settings which have been printing great and also got stringing on the first layers for the internal threads.
With the orange PETG, I have printed a benchy and the 4" nosecone bay with no issues. The 3" nosecone bay and sled printed fine, but the internal threads keep having issues. The same spool of PLA has printed everything fine so far, except the internal threads on the 3" coupler. I wonder how the threads differ when being scaled from 4" to 3" that would cause the issues?
What is your layer height? Threaded motor retainers I've printed had issues exactly like you are having with 0.16 & 0.2 mm layer heights. I changed the layer height on the threaded portion of the component to 0.12mm and had zero issues. This was all on a stock E5+. If your printer has better overhang performance 0.16mm might be ok.
Is your filament dry? That is usually the problem we have when we see stringing.
